I agree with Otto. It's more then likely balance. I turn mine all the way to 1 to ball the tungsten and that's what it does. When I'm welding it's 7-10. It does look like you have enough post flow. Still shiny. If your gonna be welding 1/4 you'd be happier with 1/8" tungsten. Also the 250s are ...

This is all 22 gauge stainless. No backing no chill blocks no purge. This is the tack move to the edge of the puddle and tack method. With no filler. I make a tack step off the pedal move forward and hit the pedal again, it's an easy way to control heat input. 35 amps maybe? Can't remember anymore....

I apologize for my pissing contest. Here's some pics and settings and techniques I used today that should help for 16 gauge also however you'll need more amperage. This is all 22 gauge stainless. No backing no chill blocks no purge. This is the tack move to the edge of the puddle and tack method. Wi...

Here are the test pieces I have the the one farthest to the right is just me controlling the foot pedal on an aluminium chill block the middle is the same thing but with gas dams and the furthest one is everything but with pulse ( not set right). Thank you for all the help! Looking much better! Mid...

.....nope I didn't use any filler .... Which is why I said it's easier to get good color without filler. I don't argue about that, have the same opinion based on my own experience on thin SS. Not been using pulse much but want to get better understanding of it's capabilities. Know the camera can pl...

Chill blocks help. And fusing with no filler helps a lot too. Make a good fit up and tack every inch with small tacks. Pulse is nice but not necessary. Just tack move to the edge of that puddle and tack again.and continue moving. Stainless warps a lot. Clamp it down. I like to Clamp on each side and...

Here's a pic of what I was talking about with 6061 vs other types. On the left is a piece of 6061 and the right a piece of 5052. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170309/b20eff8e6fe0f25473d85eb4ce090663.jpg If you can I suggest 5052 or similar and not 6061 and larger coupons to help with heat satur...

If you can use bigger coupons on like 3 inch. I don't like welding 6061 either if you can get your hands on some 5052 it'll weld better. Your welds are looking good though just takes practice.



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Some pics from the last week or 2 https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170308/e3b3634029008bf5a9ae368e441174cf.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170308/e1a6f26074b69c3328c528a005069a97.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170308/e565c6d43bdc8cb658bebcfa98b3c7d2.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn....

I tried yesterday too since I had it out. But tried on DC and it just wandered and rolled it up Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk I did use Dc for the Silbrz weld Hmm just looked really dull figured it was ac, I might try that and see if anything different happens Sent from my SM-G920V using Tap...

In a recent thread it was suggested to use silicon bronze to repair a pin hole in aluminum, so I thought I give a try to see what happens. I welded two 1/8" Al flats, drilled a hole and went for it. IMG_0489.JPG AL_SilBrz 2.jpg Img_0494a.jpg Img_0494a1.jpg I tried yesterday too since I had it ...

To me it looks like bad gun angle. Point your gun at a 15 to 20 degree Pushing angle. When I started I found I needed even more of an angle then I thought. Try it.
Remember with aluminum it's push only. When you pull the gun it'll look like your picture.

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I agree with Otto even the smallest tanks I've built have been from 1/8". When we get porosity or pin holes we cut that section out and tig it. We only mig the real big tanks to save time. Tig all the smaller ones. It'd be cheaper and easier to cut out a new one out of 1/8 and personally I'd ti...

I use 5356 filler on all fuel tanks and build them out of 5052.

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nailbanger138 wrote:I have some questions about these machines as well. Have any of you that own them had long term success? How have the held up after a year or so?

Mines at about a year now and it's just fine. I'm glad I bought.

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Thanks guys. Ya I got the cheap 123 blocks off amazon they are great.

Welded these out today.


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I made a cube last night. They're kinda fun https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170221/156a22d4934c2075b9a70136134cd3fe.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170221/4ea9bf86a9fd10b9534743800d2c85e8.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170221/88632f7744ed71fec0de5485c6a279e1.jpg Sent from my SM-G92...

I made a cube last night. They're kinda fun https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170221/156a22d4934c2075b9a70136134cd3fe.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170221/4ea9bf86a9fd10b9534743800d2c85e8.jpg https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170221/88632f7744ed71fec0de5485c6a279e1.jpg Sent from my SM-G92...

This is a video of me welding something at work. It has a slight gap on the sides. All I do is add more rod, move quickly to the next spot and add more rod before the keyhole wicks open to much. https://youtu.be/-KYIIoIeXFI Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk Very nice. I'll bet you didn't learn t...

This is a video of me welding something at work. It has a slight gap on the sides. All I do is add more rod, move quickly to the next spot and add more rod before the keyhole wicks open to much. https://youtu.be/-KYIIoIeXFI Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk Very nice. I'll bet you didn't learn t...

I like it. Where'd you get the water cooler

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This is a video of me welding something at work.
It has a slight gap on the sides. All I do is add more rod, move quickly to the next spot and add more rod before the keyhole wicks open to much.

https://youtu.be/-KYIIoIeXFI

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No, I like to use the dip move, dip move technique.
I just move to edge of each ripple to give me a consistent bead

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motox wrote:fifthstreet
is that pulse?
craig

No, I like to use the dip move, dip move technique.
I just move to edge of each ripple to give me a consistent bead.


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We usually try to do the inside first, then we cut out the burn through and weld the outside. It's nicer looking in the end.

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