http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/support/welding-how-to/Pages/storing-electrodes-detail.aspx Just a quick note. Drying electrodes has more effect than just on the starts. Using the electrodes is probably fine, I use old 7018 for lots of stuff. But drying them at too high a temp is not recommend...

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/support/welding-how-to/Pages/storing-electrodes-detail.aspx Just a quick note. Drying electrodes has more effect than just on the starts. Using the electrodes is probably fine, I use old 7018 for lots of stuff. But drying them at too high a temp is not recommend...

Thanks for the replies. I was assuming the big argument of keeping these electrodes dry is due to highly regulated code work or similar. This being strictly a hobby setting, I can make them work. They are eventually sensitive to moisture so it is not "only" a code question. But if you hav...

Hello, not dried 7018 are just less easy to start I think. I was said they can be dried by short circuit them prior to use. (steam goes out of them) Here I used them from a cardboard box (that is how we receive the Lincoln 7018-1 I suppose those are the same that Excalibur but the container is not w...

That video, while quite old, is one of the best I have seen up to date (particularly because it is not long but all the parameters are covered very well, with some exageration indeed but after welding a little you get the point easily) mzh23SfttnA Way better than that this funny advertising for a sc...

Coldman wrote:The LWS who said the Estwing was in stock told me it was actually 4 days and price was $66 ozzie bones. I said I'll try something else first.

Here it is:

Chipper.jpg

If it breaks I'll but an Estwing. Works good so far, happy with it.

nice try

When you will be "padding" have a bucket of water to "quench" and get rid of the extra heat. every 2 or 3 beads with 2/32 , every 2 with 1/8 ; Just a fast pass in the water, no need to get totally rid of the heat you need some to dry the pieces. I suggest that you begin with medi...

Here are welds done with 7018-1 Lincoln I did not weld for 2 months (just once) so the first thing to me is padding Here 2G position . WIth 2 small pieces of steel I an burn rods for hours As you can se there is no porosity 3/32 98A https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pr1CLfOtQ_M5pcO3CCkUwKdZdliuV0ay...

Here are welds done with 7018-1 Lincoln I did not weld for 2 months (just once) so the first thing to me is padding Here 2G position . WIth 2 small pieces of steel I an burn rods for hours As you can se there is no porosity 3/32 98A https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pr1CLfOtQ_M5pcO3CCkUwKdZdliuV0ay9...

For the ones intereted , find a database application on Android, that is perfect, to document our exercices or weldings the name is Memento https://mementodatabase.com/ You need to setup the fields you want to enter data , not very difficult, if done intelligently you can enter all the wanted inform...

Poland308 wrote:Does anyone down there deal in Estwing hammers?
https://www.estwing.com/search?q=Chipping+

I paid mine about the double

https://www.estwing.com/products/weldin ... ing-hammer

I have an estwing , very very efficient But I also did see that modified half round metal file, (with some triangular "teeth" on the sides) , on some videos by Jody, and made me a similar one really good to chip the foot of the bead , as it seem to me that often if the slag is restrained i...

Hello, slight correction, 105A I use for welding uphill a corner. (because heat raise , the piece will get very hot soon) Flat, 7018 will weld better at 115A.. (up to 120 down 110) - corrected by your 15A cheat to test if when it is said 105 you only have 90 you are too low in amps the bead shape an...

Hello, 100 A may be not enough for the 3/32 (going up I use 105 110A with 7018 rods) Your welder if the actual model have 70v Ocv (open circuit voltage) https://www.everlastgenerators.com/sites/everlastgenerators/files/downloads/PowerArc%20Series%20140ST_0.pdf seem to have correct capacity for a sma...

So I have an old toaster oven to dry them in. I set the oven around 300-350 and keep them in there for a minimum of 2 hours. sometimes longer. Redrying calls for temperatures between 650-750°F. I don't think you're going to get that in a toaster oven. http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/support/we...

Hopefully Im replying correctly. Still not sure If i`m directing the replies properly. Thanks for the replies Olek and Antorca. On the box is only written 7018. On the big box web site the have E7018 H8. 1/8 When first I purchaced them they were okay. I have them stored in a plastic weldin rod cont...

Hopefully Im replying correctly. Still not sure If i`m directing the replies properly. Thanks for the replies Olek and Antorca. On the box is only written 7018. On the big box web site the have E7018 H8. 1/8 When first I purchaced them they were okay. I have them stored in a plastic weldin rod cont...

Havent posted for a while. I`m using Lincoln 7018 welding rod and it is good, but i find , like others, that i`m always having to dry the rods first. Even if I keep them in the sealed container. I have heard of other brands that are not so seseptible to moisture. (Note I`m not looking to bash Linco...

I know exactly what you mean - 7018 rods are not all made the same & vary significantly in use & storage - being in the UK we don't have the same choices as across the pond - I once had some Lincoln 7018-1 no other name on them - Excaliber is not sold here so never had the chance to try wha...

If you are getting porosity from 7018 rods fresh out of a hermetically sealed can, then you are running them incorrectly. They can't get any dryer than fresh out of a hermetically sealed can. You may be long arcing or other issues. Once you open the container then yes, it is a requirement to store ...

HI, a little OT , but here I go : I Use 3 grinders and a polisher (for steel brush, as they turn more slowly) I am lucky to have enough air to use pneumatic tools too, so there is also an angle grinder and a straight one. But that was not the point : Now I added that smart nut from Bosch, allows me ...

Yeah, after thinking about it, the fan idea makes the most sense for me. Cheap, easy and relatively quiet. My shop-vac is so loud I wear ear plugs when I run it. Ideally, a turbine is outside. As those are providing some aspiration à few meters of tubing can be envisaged without too much losses It ...

Makes me wonder if using my shop-vac would be an option, provided I have enough hose. I've thought about doing that before. Having a switch by the end of the nozzle would be great too. Realistically though, I just use a fan to draw the fumes like Poland suggested. Noise kind of gets on my nerves an...

The big tube at the front is a silencer -It is a second hand turbine, originally used in a engraving machine to extract fumes https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wSDNd7Mp9qSFb6gsecx7A5lq-3Suro-zfVbDevFFG1aEzqlGpwCH9rXJIe03sYBo1Z4qLD6zcPtrGQ0qIsQ91ZI5P-6yoh_R8OI6Lf-NCLDKnlPDfTtq-Cy1iCuBC2XbuE2ml2T0alwT...

A small write in the rain notebook will easily fit in your pocket. Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk sure, but it may be easier to select the valuable information, if you weld a lot. at the start of the learning process, pictures are very useful I think ; you look at them along your progress and...