Wow, this looks very promising. I'm going to have a look inside the machine to see if the letters are marked on the connector. Thanks. This is probably what's on the little PCB that DennisCA made for his pedal project (on this forum). :D Edit: Are you able to make out what the three Zeners are marked?

Yep, these are the exact parts I have ordered for this project. Just need to know the darned pinout of that 10-pin connector. Or, reverse engineering: Which three pins are the potmeter connected to in a C100C remote? Would anyone dare to open either end of their precious remote and take some picture...

I see it's a bit of a dated post, but anyway: Start with a good cleanup: remove the outer covers and blow out the thing out with compressed air. Oftentimes the HT jumps around in old muck and metal-dust. Then make sure your torch and the cable set is ok. The power lead can burn out, giving these kin...

Dear Colleagues Got a good deal on a used Kemppi Mastertig 3500W to replace a failing (cheapish) Parweld. Lots of power, watercooled, no fancy programming. What more could a welder want? Well, I'd like a remote control, since I'm mostly welding bronze castings. They tend to show variations in thickn...

Love your attitude, DennisCA, and great work. If you need it, build it! :-) I want a pedal too, for my old MasterTig 3500W. I weld cast bronze, so it's hard to do without a pedal, due to the varying thickness and angles. My question is: would you maybe share the diagram and especially the pinouts of...