Every time I buy a set I really like, either the price triples, or they're no longer available when I go to get another set. My favorites are the Mars gloves. Especially the high-temp ones that will take (and protect you from) 800F for 30 seconds. Awesome gloves. I really don't use them for welding ...

Car wax is an old trick for woodworking equipment. I've had a planer, jointer and table saw in a farmhouse basement for decades. Always kept them waxed up with... well, the crappy wax I wouldn't ue on my cars! :mrgreen: Not only does it keep the cast from rusting, but it makes wood slide around like...

Not even a little bit. It's easy enough to test. Might even spray a little water on after you're done.

Good carnuaba car wax is probably your best bet in the short term. Any spray on liquid is going to 'wear out' after a few days of use.

I don't envy you this job... Possibly ER70S2 or maybe 4140 filler if you want it harder. I'd probably shy awy from the job if I didn't have an in-house way to do the post-heat accurately. There's not a lot of tolerance on that temp (+/- 50*). I've never done welds on 1095, but I've done plenty of we...

Here's a better pic of the bridge gizmos. There's also those tabs in the foreground that have the piece sticking up that gets rolled into the roof seams to hold it down. The bridge is screwed down, then those little tab things get screwed to the top of the bridge, then the roofing goes on top of tha...

I have a Dynasty and Miller says very specifically, do not use pure tungsten with an inverter machine. At least not their inverter machine. Not sure if that applies to all brands, but 2% lanth is all you need.

I've got a man-basket here also, and I use that with the forklift for everything. It's many years old and I am likely to build a new one soon with the intent of making it with a 1' platform to help with the very last bit of height I need. My lift truck is limited to 180" height, and my ceiling ...

Regrind and make undersized bearings.

I use old school passive lenses (real glass). I don't have threads like this.

Other ideas now that I'm thinking about it... I'm not sure how long you intend to be at this location, but I tend to build for until I die + 10 years... (then I move of course) :mrgreen: Wash bay drain (possibly a grey water drain) if you can. Depends on your grade slope if that can work. (as well a...

Toggatug wrote: ↑Sat Jul 31, 2021 7:02 amI suppose in the high strength steel area it would be of no benefit to use a heli unless it was made of the same or higher grade of steel which I'm not sure if anyone manufactures that.

I'm not trying to say it'll be stronger, just that it will still work.

If you're thinking 40x40 is going to be perfect, build 80x80. I'd do a steel building hands down. I"m doing one right now, and wouldn't go any other way. If you can DIY the build, it's even better. Don't skimp on the height. NOW is the time to decide on that. Height doesn't cost much. Use wall-...

I say no problem at all with the Dynasty. Crank-er up and go for it. That part isn't very big, it'll heat up in no time. Keep the frequency at 60hz (more power). Leave the balance at "Pro-Set" which is 75%. If you lower that to say 65, you're losing power. Use your head, you'll have no tro...

In some applications, a helicoil is actually stronger than the original thread. For instance, in aircraft engine applications, every hole is helicoiled right from the get-go when brand new. I'm not sure if that applies in a situation where 4140 steel is concerned. I know if it were an option, I'd go...

I weld loads of aluminum, and the only place I ever do a fusion weld is on sharp outside corners of parts, where I"m not so much welding for strength as I am to deburr the part and remove the sharp edge. In cases where the part won't fit in the square hole it's supposed to go in if I add filler...

Echoing what was said about about the short timespan Lincoln (or any manufacturer) is making consumables available, I'd say do yourself a favor and buy enough of the nickle/dime parts so as to have a lifetime supply on hand. Most of the stuff is cheap, so spending an extra $100 or $200 on consumable...

I would guess you almost have to back step the welds. Especially the last ones.

Jack, those are TIG videos, not MIG. Oscar might seem a little overzealous in his support for HTP but that 220 MTS is an absolutely awesome welder. You will get perfect results on your very first trigger pull. I won't say it warrants a Craigslist sale and a purchase of a new machine, but I wouldn't ...

I can't speak for the CK but I'm sure it's a long-term quality piece.

In March of 16 I purchased a weldcraft convertible Flex head torch. Now well past the five-year point it is indistinguishable from brand new. I wouldn't own anything else.

Your question is about volts but your diagram is showing amps.

For a small unusual project, I would just hire it out. Or you can probably send it to somebody here on the forum and then they would do it for you for nothing if you paid the shipping of the parts.

Very cool build. Probably take a decade of my spare time but does look like fun.

Since the gas lens doesn't get hot enough to burn whatever contamination is sitting on it, I would be very skeptical about that being a problem. It's not like having steel gunk on your tungsten where it's at 3000 degrees Fahrenheit. Cleaning the gas lens or replacing it can't hurt but I would almost...

It’s not a “difficult” process, especially if you have a modicum of competence with the other processes. Or no experience to measure against. Such is not the case with OP who stated he struggles with Stick and MIG. It would be a small miracle if he were able to self-teach TIG with far better result...