Is there any chance you changed bottles since the last time you welded aluminum with this machine? A while back I swapped bottles and for a short time only welded on steel. The first time I tried aluminum it was awful....black soot, hardly a bead, etc. Luckily, I have multiple bottles and tried the ...

I had two Hobart TIGWave 250s a while back and might be able to help a bit. For one, they don't have a very robust HF compared to many other machines. Also, you should be on HF start, not continuous, for welding steel. You definitely want to pull the points, clean them, and then set the gap. I use ....

Welders don't seem to be too worried about using the correct terminology...at least for the most part. The term MIG isn't really correct unless you're welding aluminum with 100% argon. The normal gasses for steel or stainless aren't inert, so it simply can't be "Metal Inert Gas" ..... yea...

Oscar wrote: ↑Tue Aug 31, 2021 9:49 pm
If we took record of all the aluminum TIG issues posted here, 9 out of 8 times the welding current is simply set way, way too low.

That's 122.35% correct

On a serious note, that is absolutely true....for some reason new folks just don't want to crank up the machine.

New to tig welding. I recently over the last month or so purchased the Primeweld AC225 welder and have really enjoyed learning the process of TIG. I have had several difficulties in learning the process, but those have been lessons learned and moving forward has been frustrating but also enjoyable....

You might look into mold shield. The one I see mentioned a lot is Glide Mold Shield, but there are a variety of brands out there and they're all pretty similar.

Gdarc21 wrote: ↑Wed Aug 25, 2021 7:21 am Get a roof if you can. but if not use lanolin. its great for that exact thing plus bolts and lightly used as a antispatter. oh and keeps kiwis hands soft

The Fluid Film he's using is lanolin.

Hey all, looking for some guidance on a job coming down the line. My understanding is that the material will be 1095 spring steel that needs to be heat treated after welding. Does anyone have experience in this area? I believe I’m looking at preheat and post heat to start. How about a wire suggesti...

Lots of things going on here. For one, thoriated tungstens don't work well on AC at all...don't even bother. Lanthanated will be much, much better. Pure will work, but you have to ball it when you start and expect to redo it periodically. You should start out using something like 30% EP on the balan...

I see what your saying. But I would think the smaller 3x4 benchtop setup would have less deflection since the distance between wheels/bearings is shorter. I'm looking at something like this one in the picture. There are a lot of factors in play here. As cj737 noted, you'll still have deflection, an...

Welders don't seem to be too worried about using the correct terminology...at least for the most part. The term MIG isn't really correct unless you're welding aluminum with 100% argon. The normal gasses for steel or stainless aren't inert, so it simply can't be "Metal Inert Gas" and be cor...

Since this popped up again I realized that I left out the great experience I've had with the folks at Hobby Machinist...lots of friendly folks. The nice thing is you can ask simple, dumb questions and not get kicked in the teeth by the grouchy guys!

Really the only thing you'd be gaining is pulse and that's not super critical. Adjustable pre-flow is nice, but not a big deal either. Just know that you won't get much for a used Everlast if you go to sell (I have one).

Generally speaking, most hobby welding doesn't really call for pulse MIG. What sort of projects are you considering that would benefit from pulse?

The 210MP doesn't offer pulse, and nothing else south of $3K does either except for maybe a couple of the Chinese imports. About the least expensive will be the Multimatic 255 or HTP's Pro Pulse 220. The other models from Miller, Lincoln and HTP will be a fair amount more expensive.

I am trying to build up a damaged wrought iron anvil with a high carbon steel face. Everything I read says wrought iron is very hard to stick weld. Some books suggest oxy-acetylene welding is the way to go, since it can help to melt the silicon/slag portion, using a mild steel rod. I have stick wel...

If you are frustrated about the issue of keep your glasses from falling off, here’s the solutions everyone out there is adopting: check measurements and adjust the frame, or use adds-on like anti-slip wax, nose pads, glasses straps, and ear grips, or rely on sport glasses This thread is from five y...

I have had that happen with what I'm sure had to be contamination...usually the color of the arc changes and it's so bright no shade level will help.

When you see folks chop off the end of a billet that didn't forge weld using the chop/miter saw, what kind of blades do I need to order so that I can accomplish the same thing? VidMate Mobdro Would this be a good one? I'm assuming you're talking about on Forged in Fire where they use the chop saw t...

there have been a number of discussions here and elsewhere about how flow meters are calibrated, and the output pressure is a factor. Since the gauge/scale on the flow meter is calibrated for the output pressure of the regulator I would think you'd get a different number if the peashooter wasn't ca...

First thing is to determine if the tester and the flow meter on the bottle agree with each other. Connect the tester to the flow meter outlet with a short (non leaking) hose and compare the readings. If they differ then choose which one you want to believe - the tester probably. The flow cannot dro...

First thing is to determine if the tester and the flow meter on the bottle agree with each other. Connect the tester to the flow meter outlet with a short (non leaking) hose and compare the readings. If they differ then choose which one you want to believe - the tester probably. The flow cannot dro...

It sounds like it could be a CSS styling bug that happens when the site renders at certain resolutions. I tested the site at all the most popular resolutions with no issues, but there are always going to be some oddities. Any info like screenshots, device type, browser etc is helpful in diagnosing ...

Both have their place, but if you want accurate cuts you're going to be happier with a dry cut saw. I have a full-size Well Saw band saw and an Evolution S380CPS and rarely use the bandsaw. The nice thing with the dry cut is you can easily cut accurate angles that are repeatable time after time. Now...

Oscar wrote: ↑Thu Jul 15, 2021 3:10 pm click the little icon on the right that has the double arrows (left & right). That toggles the sidebar. That's all I can offer.

That does help a bit...thanks!