go to www.bonneyforge.com - the info you are looking for can be found there. i don't waste my time and money trying to fill the space up. like mentioned by others here, do minimum 3 passes and see what it looks like. sometimes depending on the size of the fitting i might make 2 cap passes. 1st one d...

i am amazed at the difference in $$$ of same 4 same items at some of the welding supply stores. pays to shop. don't make any rash purchases. research-research-research. good luck with your tig. good old tig. a old wise man told me its like riding a unicycle without the wheel

you can always go the way of a cheater in your helmet. just make sure you've explored all other avenues because once you go to the cheater, you can't go back-everything will look way too small

arc angle-arc length-amperage-speed-correct rod-metal make up-steady nerves-good eyesight. other than that, piece of cake-har har

don't rule out that good old 6010 rod. lincoln makes 5P and 5P+ - 5P is the red rod you'll hear guys refer to. i use 6010 5P+ for all passes except cap. i like the 5P for that - very good rod for rusty and dirty steel. also doesn't need drying like the 7018 - keep burning brother

depends on code-5 deg plus or minus

being certified to API 1104 code i have to re-certify every 6 months on 6" steel in the 6G position. however my sample isn't xrayed, its done with what they call destructive testing which is a little more stringent than say an xray from what i'm told . i've only completed probably 30 xrays with...

try dipping the old rods in some water, wipe 'em off and retry. still going to need to consider new rod someday. turn machine up to max, the adjust accordingly. these guys know what they're talking about

i've found 6013 rod ok for thinner stuff but like the guys are saying, 6010 rod is very versitle

lincoln website use to offer a nice poster listing the most popular rods and the settings. they also had a handy weld stick selection handbook. good luck navigating their new website

how 'bout a blanket party

what works for me is letting other small purchasers such as yourself, know how you are treated. eventually the word will get back to the store. don't get nasty, just speak the truth. now hahn welding and air-gas can't wait to see me and we bullshit for hours sometimes.good luck

step out of the weld puddle while maintaining the arc then step back. undercuts a bastard. heat input, rod angle, rod manipulation. slow down and watch weld flow out. most times its a very small and simple solution. keep the frustration to a minimum

the few times i've faild on root its been where the tie-in is. always taper these as said by many on this site. i keep my tacks to 3/4" tops-good luck

only if you had flow on the pipe you were welding with stick. i use 6010 on natural gas under 125#, then go to 7018 for anything over that pressure because of the "HAZ" affect(heat affected zone)

go to lincoln's website and go to resources and you'll find an article about cracks in hardfacing process. its actually a good thing but doesn't mention anything about peening the weld. hope it helps

i've had an older speedglass, nice but heavy. also didn't have a lot of side coverage as i'm a pipe welder. have a miller lx for the truck, nice and light. bought a miller elite for shop @ work, a little heavy for my liking. bought a viking(lincoln) 700g for home, nice. its all about a fine balance ...

if the outlet side of regulator rises then its the reg bleeding by. maybe dirty?

absolutely no more than 1 turn. our company's safety manual specify's it as said by jpence38-in the event of a problem, it can be turned off quiclky

i think you should look at the trailblazer 302 as jpennce38 said. i have one on my welding truck and its awesome. never a loss of generator power as i sometimes power a poly pipe electrofusion machine and its not affected by the welding process at all. also this might be your largest purchase so mak...

thickness of 55 gallon drums might be 16 gauge at best. would be hard to stick weld, no? - maybe the flux core would be better

i set mine at 40# oxy and 5-7# for general cutting. i found that dropping the oxy to 20# for rosebud operation works well. the setting is usually indicative of the btu rating of the tip. the torch manu. should be helpful like the chart i just saw

if you are still concerned about the purge buy some cheap nitrogen-much cheaper than argon or helium i believe

i downloaded a hardfacing manual from lincoln which i found at this site. can't find the link but if you email me back i can send it as an attachment if you'd like
sdamico@rochester.rr.com

tell ya what i found. i recently bought a lincoln power-mig 180 and much to my surprise guess what i found on the back of the machine when i went to plug it in-"assembled in Mexico"-thats right, LINCOLN