Oscar wrote: ↑Thu Apr 18, 2024 12:47 am Time to upgrade to the new HTP Invertig 251

+1

For staino, the larger the cup the better the coverage and resultant bead colour because of the cooling effect on parent metal larger cups have. I'll often use a jazzy10 or 12 on staino, I only use the really big cups if there are access issues and I need a really long stick out to get into where I ...

Magnets do interfere with the arc but it's kinda fun to drag the arc back to where you need to tack.

Up to you whether you walk the cup. I'd just lay wire it. At 180 amps you'll be going very fast if you're a cup walker.
Definitely not an application for pulse.

The way I would do it is: - find a way to clamp down all four quadrants at the same time without restricting access for the tig torch. - set 180amps and use 2.4mm wire - use a large gas lense cup, min #10 - light up in the corner, peddle to the metal, and go fast. - go to the opposite side of the ba...

Use a bigger cup. The bigger the better, at least #10. Keep the post flow close to the end of the bead.

I don't believe that part is cast. It's forged or other manufacturing process, likely from a higher grade aluminium bar stock like 6000 series. For welding 6000 series, 5356 is indicated or 4943 would be good too. I wouldn't use 4043 for anything, certainly not for this repair. 6000 series also rega...

4043 is not the best filler for 6000 series parent. I'd don't like it the best of times because of porosity and peppering. 5356 is indicated for 6000 series parent. If you suspect porosity is from parent alloy contamination, put a buttering layer of 5356 down first, grind it back to just above flush...

You'd be better off listing with Welding Web.
Most members here aren't professionals requiring a high end power source.

I recon a flame spray method would be the way to go. If you don't have access to this method there is another way. Tig a couple layers of EziTigWire on the bottom and sides of the repair surface. This wire does not require preheat on the cast iron part and is also used to joint steel to cast iron. O...

grinding mode led will drain the battery.

4047 is a very good rod. It's what I use exclusively on all cast repairs.

Looks good to me too!

I'd change two things if permissible by WPS: - I'd get rid of the 4043 and use 5356 filler. 4043 is known for porosity and also not the best match for 6061 parent. - Your DX will perform better with a different electrode. I had mixed results using it with my DX. I recommend 2% lanthanated for everyt...

Good idea, also use anti-seize on the stainless bolts.
When tacking the nuts, if you don't have 309 wire, use whatever stainless wire you have. Don't use er70 wire.

That's why I have a separate welding circuit in my shop. On site I'll plug my power source into a separate circuit to my other devices also. Hi freq and current spiking can play silly buggers at times.

I'm getting a server error with TapaTalk for this forum only. I think this happened to me a few years ago but can't remember the fix. Can anyone help? (tried admin but no answer yet)

Looks nice. What did you do to the plate surface?

7018 has thicker coating than 7016 resulting in more slag. You have to watch the weld pool and stay on the leading edge. You have to move a bit faster than 7016 because of the faster deposition rate with 7018.

Can you post a pic or sketch of what you are proposing?

If you saw lab test results on that weld you'd change your mind. If it hasn't been de-oxydised it's a bad weld doesn't matter how nice it looks. Every weld will fail given enough time. Every good practice we employ as welders is designed to extend that time to failure as much as possible. Neglect an...

Low carbon steel really needs the deoxidisers that filler wire provides to achieve a good weld and finish, unlike staino and aly.
For your thin gauge joints try twisting two mig wires together ( one end in a vice the other in a battery drill).
Pulsing will also improve finish .

That's a visual, not mag .

Mag test is for surface and shallow cracks only. Can't tell you anything else.

Have done so in the past. Also did it at 180amps which worked fast and well but the bead comes out grey. Personal preference I guess.