It will depend a little on how the wheel is actually made. Some use resins or other epoxy’s to hold the bristles in place along with the mechanical crimp. Some wire wheels for drills, lower speed, use plastic hubs. As long as it doesn’t break down the non metal parts you should be fine. I have used ...

I would unplug and open it up. Look it over and check for blown components. Might be capacitors.

Looks like Lovejoy still makes new ones. Check out a bearing distributor in your area they should be able to find you a new one

https://www.directindustry.com/prod/lov ... 77989.html

https://www.amazon.com/Lovejoy-Variable ... R7A5E?th=1

Lots of pulleys are a cross between sintered and cast. Often very low grade with lots of impurities. That’s why there cheap to replace there designed to be a disposable wear part.

Post up a picture of the break. There may be a better way to weld it or to prep it.

The manual will probably call out the pins.

https://www.harrisproductsgroup.com/en/ ... azing.aspx

Check out Harris. You can compare specs. There tech support is usually worth a call to find specialty stuff not listed on the web site.

Might have to bump up to high silver brazing. 45% or higher.

309, 310, 312. Watch the pre heat and post heat.

That’s because the biggest difference between your two metals is going to be pre heat post heat and annealing. Use any steel wire but if you ignore the brittle effects of the high carbon to low carbon weld and it will fail before it cools. With stick or tig your best bet would be a 309 wire for diss...

Looks like aluminum filler on magnesium base.

Kodokan wrote: ↑Mon Nov 15, 2021 1:02 am

Poland308 wrote: ↑Sun Nov 14, 2021 11:31 pm Buy a bigger bench top shark.

Are you referring to a bench top grinder?

A 3" bench grinder with a diamond wheel could be much cheaper than a Sharpie, but not sure the quality of electrode grinding is comparable.

https://diamondground.com/shop/shoppira ... e-grinder/

Second old trick. Start the arc on the fitting not grounded to shock the hell out of your fitter. Use CAUTION FITTERS GET PISSED WHEN YOU SHOCK THEM TWICE. Beware of the size ratio of fitter to welder!

Old trick. Start the arc on the base metal not the filler, keeps the shocky away.

Actually, on 480 your more likely to loose a finger if you go phase to phase, but only get a 120 shock to ground.

Buy a bigger bench top shark. The little sharpie is ok for the occasional use or job site work. But they don’t last long.

Porta band is the one saw in my shop that never gets put away. I keep 2 or three different teeth count blades around and even 1 or 2 with the teeth gone, they work great for thin plastics.

Iowa, Cedar Rapids is nearest big town.

I have run over 200 amps through a 17. It just gets hot fast. You will shorten the life but there disposable anyway.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NVHYKF1/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=4db264b2bf9d5df9fa1107c9497499dd&hsa_cr_id=8048630460001&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=7d3dfa48-0efe-4cbb-94e1-afb841273d3f&pd_rd_w=BdhpK&pd_rd_wg=y56L7&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_mcd_asin_0_img Proble...

With the key way it won’t be 1/4 turn. Looks like it’s just stuck. Penetrating oil it. Lightly

There does come a point where the cost of over welding doesn’t pay. If the partial part lasts 15 years then that’s way past most warranty on even new stuff.

It’s amazing what you can tune out when your hood is down and there’s only the arc and the hiss of the gas. Welcome. And good luck.

I can’t speak for the original poster, but any time your dealing with thin metal. That has been exposed to boiling water, then your biggest enemy will be the mineral deposits. Often there on the back side where it’s nearly impossible to clean off.

You could always shake it to see if you can hear it sloshing.