Why do you say you were bad at stick? I think it's pretty forgiving so long as you don't try to weld too thin of a material compared to the rod diameter. Out-of-position is another story though, but not too bad if you use the right technique with the right rod.

Welcome from South Texas.

The 36 grit 3M fiber discs are very aggressive, but I've noticed that the edge loses the ceramic faster than I'd like. Not the sharpness of the ceramic, the ceramic bits themselves. I think it's because the edge flexes more and the resin that holds the ceramic tends to crack and then it lets loose t...

No, problem-o. It's a pretty cool little stick welder.

I still use the ones I got from Empire Abrasives, but I've switched to the fine grit 120 and I like those better. Plenty aggressive enough and last way longer than the coarse grit ones that tend to disintegrate quickly if you hit an edge.

I agree with packing it before hand. Lay a 3/32" or a 1/8" piece of filler rod in the gap, blast-tack WITH LARGE AMOUNT OF AMPERAGE(!) the ends A & C first, then a blast-tack at B . Then since it will now stay in place, you can run over it with the arc and weld it out with filler just ...

If it is within the 3 year warranty, get it to a Miller service center asap. I hope you registered the warranty; If the main board is bad, Miller should replace it. They replaced the main board on mine after I got careless with the duty cycle and let the magic smoke out, so they should be able to he...

Yes, those results are typical for over-heated base material. It looks like you're getting the hang of it.

Getting rid of it will immediately improve your welds.

I'd say you're thinking is on track about coordination and dexterity. There's a lot of other factors as well; in fact TIG welding likely has the most factors involved IMO. For example some people don't even realize that leaning your entire upper-torso/body weight on your forearms while trying to per...

He got an Esab miniarc 161 lts.

I would try a regular (non gas lens) collet body/cup with only 3/16" stickout using a 3/32" ceriated tungsten (if that is the only tungsten you have). 2 to 3x the diameter for the gas flow.

How much $$$ you looking to blow? $500? $5,000? This will help people narrow down suggestions.

Welcome from South Texas.

Did not know about the arc start away from the filler.. have not been doing that. Thanks! Also hey Oscar, picked up a Crystal 2.0 per your recommend and have to say wow... what an improvement over what I have now which is an ESAB A50 and a Miller Digital Infinity. It's not a night and day compariso...

sbaker56 wrote: ↑Mon Nov 22, 2021 10:27 pmone quit because of it.

Is it weird that I like getting shocked? I think it releases endorphins or dopamine in my system, lol.

Yep, the magnetic permeability is what the property is called. It dictates just how much magnetic field (in gauss) can be induced into a specific part (defined by it's size and geometry) before it becomes saturated with field lines and then cannot accept a stronger field no matter what.

It wont hurt. The boards are thick lacquer-coated so they're durable, but the heat sinks are obviously not coated. Take off the carry handle first, then all the torx bolts, lift up about 2" to undo the ground wire female spade connector and away goes the cover. I clean mine about once a year or...

BillEDee stops in here at my shop frequently, so yea, it does happen. We're in PA though, so we don't like them craw-dad crushers from daan sauth! Lol. Just kidding. I've not taken notice to other members in NC, but there's likely some around. You should have him bring his brand spankin' new HTP In...

Pyrex will help a bit, But an Optrel e684 or Crystal 2.0 will work wonders. It adjusts the shade level, on-the-fly, from about 5 to 13, in response to the arc intensity right as your welding. There is an adjustable "bias" so if it doesn't dark enough, you can shift it slightly darker, or i...

I want a portaband but I always use my metal chopsaw and angle grinder with cut-off wheel most of the time. I bought the HF portaband but it sucked. Wheels were out of true by 1/8".

Yup, just have to keep training yourself to let off the pedal as soon as the puddle bridges the two pieces. But what you have should be workable.

I don't think I can get that to work, because I didn't think it through enough.....that's why the breakers are there

A bit more amps, but the real key is to not ramp up slowly like driving Ms Daisy. You need to set your mind to Formula-1 racing mode. Hit that pedal hard and fast. And make sure you do not have too long of an arc length, but not too short either. Roughly 1/8" or so. No gaps!

Thanks to everyone for their unwavering support! Took me this long since I been working long hours and only have like 20-30min free on the weekdays after I get home, and weekends are for traveling around Texas :) Receptacles from Left to Right: 240A (just pass through, same 3-Φ coming from the rotar...