I tried welding thin to thick today. It's HARD. Now you’re learning! Understanding how hard it is to get right is a critical part of the learning process. Hard as in there's a very fine line between getting it to weld, and blowing big holes into it. Unlike TIG you can't really see where the metal's...

When you weld two different thicknesses, you move the arc or rod to the thicker piece and linger longer, then sweep to the thinner side and spend less time on thin. You still burn stick rods at the rod diameter, regardless of the thickness of the material. But… you also do your best to use the corre...

I refer to 7018 as it’s a standard rod in the US. Probably 7016 in Asia, maybe Tweake knows better.

Watch the damn videos to understand what you’re looking for. And yes, it takes at least 50# in any position to become good. 100# in each position if you use both hands (not common for a hobby welder).

As I said, watch WTT videos on stick. Get thicker material. Practice, practice, practice. Whenever I have had a new apprentice show up, the very first task they are required to do is to burn 50# of 1/8” 7018 rods in flat with their dominant hand. Then, 50# with their non-dominant hand. All they are ...

Can you elaborate the voltage issue? I thought voltage is variable, the machine adjusts voltage to maintain current, and longer arc means higher voltage. There’s a great deal more to electricity than voltage and amps. Especially where welding is considered. You didn't tell me if my practice welds a...

Yet again, you are wrong. The reason you’re struggling is because you have no formal training, little practice, and you’re attempting the most advanced techniques with cheap equipment and unknown rods. You constantly cite the expense as a reason to pursue your choices, but you can either pony up and...

If you are hitting the joint directly, even with a good fit, lower your amps to 45. Be prepared to move away quickly. You can also use a dab of filler resting on the joint, and hit that with your arc. This can provide just enough extra material to avoid blowing through. One thing that is critical: y...

You need to learn to read the label and understand the variables in welding. Not all stick rods work on steel, and not all steel stick rods are the same. Each rod is specifically designed for the position, polarity, and material they are used on. And, not all machines will run all rods. Some rods ca...

A filler-less tack (autogenous weld) requires perfect fit-up. If you have gaps at the seam, you’ll need a dab of filler. Even though the tubing might be mild steel, I find it best to purge while welding. The purge gas pressure from behind helps push the tack/weld up and keeps the tubing cooler. I’d ...

Hi Again, I'm not sure if it's good practice; but, I have just started tacking panels together while they are flat and then bending them to 90 degrees before tacking them closed. It seems to work pretty well. I'm not sure that it would work with stainless, though. Jeff It’s been my experience that ...

This thread is 4 years old. I don’t expect the OP to respond. You should start a new thread, post a picture of your results, and list the settings you are using. Also, a picture of the front of the machine when ready to weld helps.

With stick rods, you set the amperage based upon the rod size, not the material. You choose a rod size for the material you are welding. When welding thin to thick, focus the rod on the thick and pause there until the weld wets in. Then wick over to the thin side and back to the thick, pause and hol...

I can't just jam the rod down, doing so will stop the arc completely like sticking a tungsten. Solid indication of too low amps and/or a cheap welder. Many cheap inverters won’t run certain types of stick rods, even though they are for DCEP. Simply assuming because it’s a “carbon steel” rod you can...

Clean plasma cuts are easily obtained. Often, the issue is too low of air pressure. Better to be high on that end and low on the amps.

For cutting stainless square holes, I like to drill the corners as “stops”. It prevents any over-runs with shears or torches.

Plasma. Use some ally chill blocks around the cut if possible, and keep your post flow turned up. I just did 18ga stainless with a plasma and did not have a bit of distortion.

Back to the question about fit up- For thin stainless, I use aluminum angle bars. I clamp the stainless sheets to those either as inside or outside corners. I prefer the aluminum as it does not contaminate the stainless, won’t accidentally weld to the stainless, and provides a minor heat sink to boo...

The “collets” on the left side are for a proprietary type of torch. Those in the middle are more traditional collets that can fit in standard 17/26 type torches. There are many older types of welding machines that used unique torch types. And modern parts might not be interchangeable with them. Don’...

They can accept any amount of amps you wish to throw at them. The benefit of using a thinner tungsten is that at lower amps, they can be more managebale. I’ve welded at 18 amps with a 1/8” before quite successfully. I had run out of the correct type in a smaller size and found only a 1/8” in my draw...

I’m so glad you came along to teach me all the things that everyone with decades of experience knows is now incorrect. I’ve welded using that ratio much thinner than 1mm and much thicker) which is where the ratio breaks down. But you know more than I after your few weeks of welding. Wish you best of...

Your amps are way too high for 1mm. Reduce to 45 amps. 1mm is 0.039 thick. Rule for steel is 1a:1k of material thickness. You can reduce that ratio for stainless by 10-20%

Furick cups were never made in China. They still are not. The original Miller gas lenses he contracted with Miller to make for his cups may have been, but they are no longer made by Miller and are again made in the US. The clones you buy are yet another example of intellectual property theft by the ...

Virtually every DC welding machine comes with a 17 type torch as a “standard” unless you specifically order a water cooled version (then a 20). A 17 will weld a great deal of materials and range of amperage, but it’s not well suited for >180 amps for prolonged welding. I have welded numerous 6mm alu...

What you are describing with the aluminum blocks is a lack of amperage from your machine to properly weld the thickness of those scraps. Aluminum takes way more heat to get a puddle, then you can reduce the heat while laying beads. The exterior of aluminum is covered by an oxide layer that melts aro...

Mild steel welds usually won’t be shiny because the base metal is part of the weld. Shiny only matters for stainless nd titanium. Learn to weld first, worry about appearances and Instagram beauty later. You have ample challenges to conquer with your skills before you ever consider how “pretty” your ...

Your exposure to stainless in the world is very limited. Thick stainless (Sch 10, 20 etc) and plate is very common. You assume a great deal from a limited knowledge position. Your prior statement (other thread re: oxidation ) about your welds being nearly as good as the guy from PAT is amusing. You’...