I would also add that your buddy very likely has his Esab tuned just about perfect. Drive roll tension, spool tension are factors often overlooked when MIG welding. The consistency of the filler coming off the roll has a significant bearing in the appearance of welds. If it sticks and stutters, you ...

If you opt for a PrimeWeld box, I encourage you to NOT buy the 285. Yes, it is a multi process box, but it will not run 6010 rods. And from your posts you don’t need a multiprocess box. Being restricted to lift arc DC TIG is pretty aggravating if you get into TIG work. I’d buy their separate TIG box...

The type of welding you are describing from your Contractor are aluminum MIG welds. The black soot is from the MIG process burning off the surface oxides of the aluminum. Because he’s using MIG, the gun end is much larger diameter and therefore needs more space in order for him to get the proper dis...

I don’t know anyone who would characterize an Everlasting as “bullet proof”. Mostly they call them “Neverlast” due to reliability issues. Esab is an excellent machine, as are HTP. Don’t discard the PrimeWeld boxes. They are surprisingly good machines and are very inexpensive (not cheap). You can buy...

To start a Stick, you "lightly scratch" the rod along the surface. This requires a LOT of practice to develop the right "touch". A trick you can use, is to touch the side of the rod along the edge end of the practice material, then drag the rod along that edge until the end of th...

You don't need pulse on Smokers. Mainly it has lots of application when welding thinner material. It's popularity over the past few years makes it more of a "feature" than a requirement. Millions upon millions of miles of MIG welds occurred long before pulse. Things like that tend to be mo...

Any of those will be fine. I have a MultiMatic 200 (predecessor to 215) and it has been bulletproof. If you are focused on MIG work, with some Stick thrown in, I'd steer away from a multiprocess TIG-capable box. It adds cost without a lot of features. Also check out the PrimeWeld MIG boxes on Weldmo...

Well don’t those look nice! To help with your restarts, focus your arc on the last bead of the weld, once it gets fluid, dip, then take off with your sequence. Add more filler at the end of the weld and taper off your heat to avoid the burn back.

Looking really good!

Thin aluminum is very tricky. You need to start backing off the amps as you approach the end to avoid the heat soaked material from burning back on you. Another trick is to add a larger tack at the end, weld to it, then back step to bring some of the tack into the weld. 68 amps is also tricky. It’s ...

The only critique I'd make about the 18ga stainless is to use thinnner filler wire. It will help reduce how much heat, how much weld profile you generate. Since your fit-up appears to be good, you shouldnt need much wire; just enough to prevent undercut on the outside surface. Another trick you coul...

I’d be around 385-400IPM and roughly 315 amps but in spray mode. I wouldn’t run that thickness in short circuit. I’d start there and dial it in per your mileage.

Thank you for taking the time to help me i appreciate it. I feel like I’m learning a little already. Should my bead cover the outside of the material as well or no because of where the joint was? Both of those joints are "butt" joints. So the bead will span half the thickness of the edge ...

You’re adding too much filler, that’s why your bead is so tall. Be a bit more patient and get a good, fluid puddle before you start adding filler, then dip, move, pause, dip, move, pause, etc. Watch the bead to make sure it’s spreading out to the proper (desired) width before advancing. Last thing, ...

Could be pulsed MIG, my money is on a different filler and less heat. The smoothed out beads look a bit hot while the stacked up bead looks like a different filler and a longer travel step to me. Both are good welds to the eye, it’s often just down to different people’s techniques.

Depends upon the size of the cup. What size are you using and how much CFM? If you use a standard collet body, any more gas than 1.5x the cup size tends to be a waste, plus, you can introduce turbulence in certain joint configurations that don’t work well. Also, you don’t need a gas lens below a 6 b...

First off, as much as possbile, avoid MIG downhill! You should only do that as a last resort, and never for material 3/8" or thicker. You and your machine are not ready for that. What I notice from these pictures is a consistent cold weld. You really need to crank up the amps and get the bead &...

If you can increase the voltage without adding WFS, try it. Some machines tie voltage directly to WFS so you may not get anywhere in which case a bit faster travel might be helpful. If you are welding 1/4” and up, I’d stick with the 0.035. But also try some 0.024 with thinner materials as an experim...

The answer depends upon your goal. Do you prefer to learn to be competent or would you rather put a bit more time in and learn to “master” something? It’s easiest to use 1/16”. It’s also more expensive because you stuff more filler in. It’s “best” to use 1/8” because it’s more economical (important ...

I sold one about 5 years ago for $1200. It made me lots more than that over the years. A beast on power consumption, but welded great.

1/8” flat stock, about 12” long, and 4” or more wide. Scribe parallel lines about 3/32-1/8” apart and run beads. Focus on consistent travel, wetting in the filler, and not leaving a crater at the end of the weld (hint: you need to taper off your heat before the last dab). Run 120-150 amps, 30% clean...

A better welding machine doesn’t make a better welder. A good welder can weld with a crap machine. That is because technique, understanding, and muscle memory have everything to do with great outcomes. MiG is a “misleading” process. It looks easy enough, some can make decent looking welds early in t...

Those look just fine. Just continue with the practice on your travel speed so the bead remains as uniformed as possible. Tie-ins look pretty OK. Perhaps back up into the last bead a bit farther before moving on so there is no gap in the bead. You’re doing really well for someone who claims “beginner...

I’d be careful welding it since it’s annealed already. Perhaps opt to braze it instead? Or use Silicon Bronze wire? I’ve never used the stuff before, but my recollection is that tubing is best suited for hydraulic lines which tends to put me off welding it. I could very well be wrong about its suita...

If your helmet is not darkening (if that’s what you mean) then there are 3 possible causes: batteries are dead, or solar charge is discharged, or you are too far away from the arc for it to respond to the brightness. Check the first two before testing the last one. If you are saying the “weld pool” ...