cj737 wrote: For clarification, if you use a water cooled torch at only 80 amps, then coolant is NOT required.

Not my experience for sure

I empty the lines when not in use, more sensitive then I guess

Have to strongly disagree with last post Don't run a water cooled without coolant in the lines. I have damaged a 20 torch more than once by forgetting to turn on the water. It has only been matter of seconds but that was long enough to overheat. Easy fix though, cut off water and gas line an inch an...

http://fairclothmachine.com/mechammer/ http://www.bensmetalshapingshop.nl/ http://www.hoosierprofiles.com/ Making it too easy for you ;) The main two things with electric planishers is noise level and variable speed control. You can slow things down a lot without loosing power. Makes it easier to le...

Google "alcotec filler alloy chart" Helps pick filler wire based on what alloy you are welding. Other rules of thumb when not critical: 4043 for casting , high silicon amount Not 4043 if you will anodize, weld will discolor. 5356 for most other things specially marine stuff. Very simplifie...

The bobcat might be loud but at a lot better frequency than the planishing hammer :mrgreen: Google Ben's Metalshaping or Mechammer for the electric style. A friend of mine has one and it's a very good machine, beats the pneumatic ones every day. If you want to do an easy upgrade of the pneumatic one...

Yeah the dent puller works similar, will help heat shrink in a small area. The old school method is heat, hammer & dolly which you can apply to your problem. Put the sheet on a flat steel bench, or plate, so the canning bulge upwards. Heat the center and give it a good whack with a hand sledge. ...

Do you have neighbours?
You have chosen the noisiest tool known to mankind

None of you tried heat shrinking to remove oil canning?

I assume you can go lower than 100 Hz so try that. Looks like you have nice clean aluminium so try and reduce cleaning action as much as you can. Both changes will increase penetration. Also make sure the arc isn't focused on just one side of the joint, which it can do when lowering the frequency. Y...

MinnesotaDave wrote: Or lay a 1/8" thick flat strip over the mesh and rivet, bolt or weld.

Or clamp a steel bar on the mesh. Leave a few mm of the mesh sticking out and hit it hard. The bar will stop the mesh from melting to far until the 1/8 melts.

I think you're already on the right idea whats giving you the problem. You need to heat the 1/8" fast before the expanded heats up, which would probably be very difficult to control if you're new to it. I would try and pre heat the thick material up to annealing temp, which is quite close to me...

There you go, told ya

Welcome
That exhaust looks great, good job.

I've been to your country many times the last four years and I absolutely love the italian style, food people, architecture. You name it.

I would try tacking with less heat. With that thin material it's easy to pull up scale from the unprotected back side when you melt through.

On edit: you were posting as I wrote above.
The copper can protect the back side from oxidising as well a heat sink so it makes sense with what I wrote above

You can weld copper with argon but be prepared to raise the amps a lot compared to steel. When the copper is heat saturated you need to back down another too, pedal control is very convenient here. Regarding your gas issue, don't you have a pressure gauge that show if the tank is empty or not? Befor...

You're such a drama queen Steve, eat a Snickers

Have fun and good luck.

I only have 1/16 and sometimes I find that a bit too much working with thin parts so go for .045 if you can.
Amps? Low enough not to melt base material high enough to melt the filler. Great answer right?

Make a coil from wire, then grab the ends and pull apart.

.030 or .040 ss mig wire works great for small stuff.

Silicon bronze too if you want the colours to be different.

Since it's art I assume strength is not an issue.

Save the trouble with spraying and cleaning and get some Zerust bags, or any other brand with VCI 2000 on the inside. Will protect a long time as long as the bag is closed and the metal is dry when you put them in.

The cup for a 9/20 torch gas lens should fit.

Have you tried with a regular #8 alumina cup on the stubby lens?
If you get better result you know the lens and everything behind up to the back cap is alright.

Nice buy!

What's the red crap inside the tubing?

...and that's a perfect example of where you should have cooked the weld to get that gray finnish Dave

Nice work though

Stainless is alright without filler but mild steel need the oxidisers in the filler material to regain full strength.

Depending on application it's often strong enough without filler.