Ah, okay cool. Thank you. Just got word from the plumber, we are not doing it. Yet... Maybe they will change their mind when the pipeline starts leaking, dripping hot water on people working on the machines and then they have to shut the whole place down for a day or 2 or 1 full night to get it all ...

Okay so let me just make sure I got this right. I slap my pipe in the fitting, hits the stop. Back it up a 1/16"th of an inch and then fuse the first weld. Then let it cool, (its 304 stainless, I was going to use 308L, 3/32' rod) then I run a bead around it, weaving back and forth from the fitt...

Okay so I could fuse the first weld, then run a small bead, then let it cool, do 1 or 2 others, then come back and run another, wider bead enclosing the smaller one and now I have a wider and fatter bead, and then let it cool and then come back until the thickness of the weld bead is the same as the...

Coldman wrote:Leg length of the fillet should be about the same as the wall thickness of the socket for strength. That usually means at least two passes required.


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Okay so run multiple passes on the same bead?

Yup, too cold. Gotta get it hotter. Pure is old school these days, 2" lanthanated, E3's and tungstens like that work much better, pure tungsten tends to drop a lot when welding above 150 A's. You can also make up for the lack of heat by letting your torch heat up the area to be welded and movin...

I use 125 C.F tanks, if you want to try it out, you can rent it from your LWS, they charge like $0.15 a day or something like that, so you would pay about $50 (where I am) for the gas and then they charge you the rental fee every day and when you empty it, you swap it with a new bottle.

Don't ask how I know. Okay, now I am just curious. So keep the pipe centered in the fitting and leave a gap all around, got it. No...bottom out your pipe in the socket and then pull it back a 1/16" before you weld it or when the weld cools and contracts, it will pull the pipe into the socket f...

exnailpounder wrote:Don't ask how I know.

Okay, now I am just curious.

So keep the pipe centered in the fitting and leave a gap all around, got it.

yeah, Tigging it should not be too difficult if its a practiced welder, ALuminum is one of those metals that can go really wrong, really fast. If your looking for a good joint, clean and all I would weld it, I would not slap a clamp on it, but that;s just me. I like things welded because then they a...

Thanks for the reply's. Yes, welding over a gooped joint is a sad story, no doubt. The plumber will cut it all apart and use new fittings and clean pipe. There won't be any dope or anything when it gets socket welded. We assumed it was due to the expansion and contraction or thermal stress of the pi...

Hey guys! I am new to this Forum but I figured I might be able to get a good answer. I was on a site yesterday and the plumber was having a hard time with this stainless steel pipelines, they were apparently leaking steam at certain times but when he showed up, nothing was leaking but at that point,...

[
Steve S[/quote]
I bet a lot of guys are gonna try this.[/quote]

I know I am

Well, I just changed the collet on my torch today for the first time in 3 years. and I weld a lot. Aluminum, steel, copper all of it anywhere from 50-200 Amps. The cups last, don't worry about them getting dirty, they will be okay. The grease and oil and what not on the cups you only have to worry a...

I think it really depends. I hold mine palm down, cup down, never seen it done that way but I think it really depends on what you are comfortable with. If I am fusion welding something crucial I tend to hold close to the cup and rest my arm on my elbow to keep really, REALLY steady. Other times I ho...