I agree. I can't think of a good reason to weld letters on a functional gun barrel.

Your left image, inside corner to inside corner, is an excellent way to approach this. I grind the knife edge flat on steel too. The weld is much easier to make uniform that way. When making any outside corner, I use inside corner to inside corner, or a little overlap. This saves from having to beve...

Opinion, 140 amps is very small for the thickness you want to weld.

Aluminum mig is a spray arc transfer.
Adjust until you hear the fine humming of spray instead of the crackle of short circuit transfer.

Short one minute video:

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=IHkbh0oKv_g

Poland308 wrote:... you can snap out and then put it back close enough to maintain coverage.

That's how I do it too.

Just base it on the video, it's pretty crude looking but should get it done for you.

Those battery disconnect switches are pretty cheap and you just make the rest to suit you.

Yep, 6011 and 6010 share that characteristic.

Scraping the weld with the chipping hammer is often all that is needed.

Wire wheel on angle grinder works good too.

ESAB 161 and thermal arc 161 are both very good. I have two of the ESAB machines at the school and the thermal arc at the home shop for portable work. I've heard the cheap machines from Klutch at home depot work very well. One member over on weldingweb bought one for the heck of it, said it performs...

I have a different issue with 7018 vert, or maybe the same who knows..... i can run it weave like I’ve been doing it all my life, but I can’t do stringers. I know and understand that I’m building a weld puddle onto itself, but just don’t seem to have a technique that works. When I’m weaving I’m sta...

Since your machine uses a movable shunt to control the amps, I don't see how you would change that to a rheostat style machine?

DC+ tig works pretty good for thin aluminum - not super great or anything, but does the job.

LOL. Yea I know. That's why I want to integrate a foot pedal somehow. Any ideas? Sent from my SM-S727VL using Tapatalk Because your machine lacks a rheostat, you aren't going to be able to control amps with a foot control. For example. My Miller Dialarc has a rheostat that controls the output amper...

I would not TIG indoors. the Argon has to go somewhere, and TIG produces ozone and other less healthy fumes. Better if you weld where there is some ventilation. Plus you don't want that smell in your living quarters I don't think. ALL good points, but my friend tig welds in his basement often and t...

You did a lot wrong. Not cleaning correctly is a mistake. Buying "mild steel oxy filler rod" for tig is an obvious one :D RG45 rods are not made like tig rods. With good clean steel the weld will often be very gray. Same for coat hangers. In 70s-2 and 70s-6 tig rods, the -2 and -6 are sili...

I've never seen issues with carbon steel soaking up contaminants. That's usually something you find in cast parts. You are aware carbon steel is porous, right? An oil pan will soak up oil, road grime and other “weld contaminating” impurities irrespective of it being cast, forged, billet or hydro fo...

I've found a quick pass vertical down with 6010 or 6011 seals up the piece with very little fuss.

A vertical up pass with 3/32" 7018 works fine after, if needed.

Wire feed speed is the amperage.

Volts adjusts the puddle profile and arc length for self shielded flux core.

Did you verify the numbers as being self shielded wire?

I've seen people get 71t-1 thinking it's the same as 71t-11

cj737 wrote:

MinnesotaDave wrote:I did a couple triumph engine cases a few years ago.
It went pretty smoothly really - used my 1963 Airco tig/stick (miller 330abp)

Not surprising really. Triumphs are terrible at holding oil, hence the cases never get saturated

Haha!!!

First question is always, did you read the manual? What part of it is in question for you? You want to be able to control WFS at the gun, this allows you to fine tune the arc length. My push/pull gun has the knob right under my thumb so I can adjust as the part heats up. You are using a spray transf...

If it's just a steel pan, I'd use 70s-2 like usual.

I've moved bungs and added the big oil returns for braided line with the regular rods - no problems noted.

I did a couple triumph engine cases a few years ago.

I cut and die ground bad sections, built up, drilled and filed where needed.

It went pretty smoothly really - used my 1963 Airco tig/stick (miller 330abp)

Some inverter machines don't run 6010 very well. But they run 6011 just fine.

Shop manager is talking out of his "other hole."

Had not heard this new internet rumor until now.

Worst part is once it takes hold on the internet, this question will keep coming up for decades....

I generally scribe a line (no soap stone if accuracy is required) and true it up by hand with an angle grinder. If serious accuracy must be obtained, and a cutting error is involved, don't be afraid to use a file instead. But truthfully, where accurate cuts are important, spend the extra time before...

The manual for that machine doesn't show the jumpers and refers the owner to the tag you found.

Post a pic of the tag and your question can be answered more easily.

I've got the small one too. It works OK, but in my opinion it is too slow. Can't really lean on it or the overload trips and shuts tool off. I really like it for small stuff where I'm one-handing the grinder and holding the part with the other hand. Otherwise it gets the weld slag brush when I'm por...

Just a standard Dual-shield 71t-1 wire will work for your application in my opinion. (note, that's not 71t-11) Either .035" or .045" should work with the power you have available. Check out this chart from Washington Alloy for their wire: http://weldingwire.com/Images/Interior/documentlibr...