If it's a tig fillet weld you're talking about and you want a decent single pass, 160amp will get you there. Use a big cup to stop greying out at those hi amps. You'll have a fast travel speed too.

Gates and yellow posts at supermarket carparks are chick magnets.

I needed to bevel some 8mm plate and wasn't looking forward to all the grinding. Hate grinding. Had the same thought. Went to the local bloke heaven shop to buy a circ saw but none had adjustable cut angle. So I bought a blade for my 30year old wood saw that I don't use any more. The guy said to adj...

400 should be ok. Try putting the arc directly on the filler, not the casting.

Looks like pre heat is vital. Remember with tig brazing, you only want to melt the filler, not the casting.

Well that's one thing off the list

The very first photos showed some of the run off balls. It would be interesting to break a couple of them off and see if they're magnetic. You might have some weird alloy going on than hinders the repair.

That's nasty.
I know what fun is, that's not it.

I think you should come to America or Australia. 4 numbers, that's it.
That Euro ID system sucks the big one.

Welcome to the forum.
That's am impressive story, we look forward to your contributions.

Why don't you just put the pics up?

I'd like to know where exactly you source your isolators. My google for that model number or even isolators in general failed to retrieve some hits where I could simply add-to-cart and just buy it outright. [/quote] Here's one I found on ebay.com so you should be able to order it in. There are plent...

Maybe you don't need a circuit breaker if you already have one, just a local isolator: Or maybe a d.o.l. motor starter with thermal overload fitted:

It's easy peasy.
Add 8 to 9 gives 17.
Add 9 to 17 gives 26.
Now 8x9=72.
But 9+17+26=52
Take 52 from 72 gives us the size 20 water cooled torch designation.
See? Got it now?

Yes, still needs to be purged on the back side. It's finicky too. I've seen plenty of ss flux core fillets and butts with coldlap edges. Craftsmen get it right. Novices don't.
I've seen flat end air and vacuum receivers with leaking joints come out of boiler shops. Nasty.

make a sheet metal lid for it to keep the rain off it

It's a very wide bead for such thin wall tubing, puts too much heat into the joint unnecessarily and we see you're dragging contamination in with it. I would pulse weld it and step in a straight line with the pulses. Do it right and it's pretty too. Also I'd go a larger cup, 10 or 12. That way the j...

What's the wall thickness of the tubing?

I have a 4T monorail with a rolled turn to get around back of the front corner office. Fitted with 2 x 2T girder trolleys and chain blocks. Use it all the time. Don't need or own a forklift.

If he's still needing help with his boots after 6 years I recon he's got bigger problems to deal with than his toes.

Still can't get to the back? Cut a rectangular window in the front big enough for the welder to get in and weld the back joint from the inside, then weld the cut-out back in.

We used to weld rated lifting lugs inside the top section, the roof crane would drop his hook down the shaft and and chain onto the lugs, lift the section up enough to slide another underneath in the kitchen and do a full penetration weld or bolt up flanges. Lift some more, weld or bolt another sect...

I find it interesting that you can get away with 16# for such a tall grease duct. I'm used to seeing them about 1/4" when I was doing high rise down under. Reason being eventually the grease is going to catch fire and maybe go "poof". Extra thickness required to cope with the "po...