With a tight gap at the top and getting increasingly wide as you go down - I generally weld where it fits, then hammer the gap closed while hot.

I use a jig saw on aluminum with a wood blade running fast. I also use chop saw and circular saw on it. For your inside cuts, I'd likely use the circular saw for large plunge cuts, then finish with the jig saw. I've cut many feet of 1/4" steel sheet with my skilsaw and a metal cutting blade. Wo...

For fillet welds, this is a handy chart from AWS D1.1

I can't see the images - but you are not going to get really nice body panel results with flux core. Just go ahead and use solid wire and gas. I use 100% co2 to save money. I rarely use mixed gas. Here is my '89 f150 plow truck I saved (and sold to my brother). All welding was with 0.035" wire ...

Any chance that aluminum is anodized?

It's a 300 amp machine, that's why only a 300 amp rating. The plugs I use are only rated for 50amps, but I was pretty tempted to swap in a bigger breaker anyways. The power mig 300 is rated at 60% at 300 amps. But its max is 350 amps. Don't worry much about the plugs. They hold way more than 50 amp...

Back plug welds are done, started a couple of the fillets. So far I've managed to trip the 50 amp breaker 6 times. I guess that's why people use 3phase wiring on bigger machines. I wouldn't worry about 3 phase, your breaker is just too small. That machine lists 62 amps input at 300 amps. I didn't s...

Poland308 wrote:I’d be using 7018 3/32 or 1/8. Easy to get in between and no gas issues. An almost impossible fail is always a good option to me.

Yep, what he said

Did you clean the oil out of the interior of the pipe?

Sort of looks like galvanized pipe, but you said it wasn't so that's not it.

Btw, when cleaning out the oil, do not use chlorinated brake clean spray. The fumes from any remaining liquid can be transformed into phosgene gas when welded.

If I read your drawing correctly, that's a really awful joint configuration to weld. Any chance of a gradual flattening of the round tube to make it easier to weld? Plus, the side-to-side rigidity of that configuration is quite poor (rocking motion). The welds are close together and result in the tu...

Sorry to hear that - moving sucks for sure. I'm still moving my shop to the new location almost 2hrs south. ...but I still don't have walls yet...pretty breezy :D The entire right hand wall is also missing. Left hand wall is missing a 14' door. Running the bobcat 225nt "indoors" is no prob...

I asked another moderator, Zap, and he didn't know anything either.

Still down today too.

It will only depend on where you hook your cables. Hook your electrode holder to the positive side for DCEP.

That’s about the dumbest thing I’ve read. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with an inverter-based welder. Millions of them in production and running well for decades. ...and probably an equal number smoked within their first decade. Ya think there's any reason why posts about "smoked inverters...

Since 6010 is easy to run vertical down, I use it whenever the gap is wide, or the material is thin, or I'm in an uncomfortable spot and just need to sew the joint closed before using 7018.

Those are some of my criteria for fixing something. Easy way to get the job done well.

Hello Everyone, An email to the management of Weldingweb advises that there is no longer a forwarding email contact for the WW Admin contact person, so I was curoius if Sparkie1957 is active on this fine site? Had a few questions about his welder restorations is all. Thanks for your time. Shawn Spa...

Because you have a lathe, I figure you must have proper measuring tools.

Measure the holes, see if bolts are the right size, or standard pins.

If not, I would buy material and machine to desired tolerance.

Practice on the pins anyway - then toss in the scrap barrel.

I like that design, looks great.

Truthfully I would not worry about it.

Your other 2 lids will work very well for class.

No reason to push the issue, even though it's a stupid rule.

3 to 4 inch get used for tacking until too short. Then I toss them.

Just an fyi, some welders can get damaged by jump starting.

As a result, charging the battery, then starting it, is a better practice.

WeldingWeb is "harsher" but it's not un-bearable, IMO. If a hobbyist like me can make it this long on WW (almost 10 years), then anyone can. Agree, but you may find that you have to put certain members on "ignore". There are a few that do nothing but complain or criticize or sta...

I've done several cast aluminum repairs like this one.

Just be sure to clean it with a die grinder, only use enough power to puddle it, weld it up

Just welding and grinding to shape works too.

Either way, a good file finishes it off nice and straight after rough grinding.

When I welded mine I back-stepped the welds in about 6" increments.

I did not get any warping using this method.

Yes, won't be a problem. Around 180 amps would be fine for steel, and stainless uses less amps.

Miller multimatic 220 is the machine you mean though for tig.