I like the high nickel rod or silicone bronze idea... Really depends how good of a cast that is once you light the torch up on it. I welded our sheet metal brake clamp handle back together after some let it slam back and it finally broke....been holding over a year now, abused daily..lol I used 309L

Im fairly new to welding in general but my question is how long do you normally wait between passes on 3" and under stainless schd 40-80 i can never seem to end up with a nice cap its laying horizontal when i do my cap so traveling vertical I wait till you can almost touch it, depends what the...

some practicing and some work... finally getting my fillets down... (still learning... struggling a lot less finally) some 14gauge SS... http://i391.photobucket.com/albums/oo360/ratonabike/welding/20161214_075659b.jpg thinner 16 gauge SS... http://i391.photobucket.com/albums/oo360/ratonabike/weldin...

thats some nice weld porn there guys. Sam..get one of those little Neti pots to wash out your sinuses. I started using one about 5 years ago to get the shop gunk out and they work wonders. I was always down with a sinus infection from breathing dust all day and haven't been down once in over years....

I know you guys will be shocked it's stainless..Lol 316L .083" wall sanitary tubing, with a .0625" bottom.

LtBadd wrote:

Rick_H wrote:Just a little carbon steel, haven't been taking a ton of pics of stuff lately.

Looks good Rick, good to see you posting again!

@LtBadd
Yeah, looking forward to doing it more again, been a messy few months in life. Happy New Year Rich! I like my WTT brothers.

Just a little carbon steel, haven't been taking a ton of pics of stuff lately. In one of your pics I see a pair of gloves, do you like those? I have the same pair I think but had a hard time feeling the filler rod. I am just learning though. My "go to " gloves have been a pair of split de...

Just a little carbon steel, haven't been taking a ton of pics of stuff lately.

Practice, Practice, Practice

Okay so I could fuse the first weld, then run a small bead, then let it cool, do 1 or 2 others, then come back and run another, wider bead enclosing the smaller one and now I have a wider and fatter bead, and then let it cool and then come back until the thickness of the weld bead is the same as th...

Looks good Sam

motox wrote:rick
always interesting to see what you welded.
have you ever welded the same type of repair
twice...lol
craig

Thanks Craig, yeah I do some repetitive repairs but what I like about my job is most days bring a new surprise.

Random stuff from last week, been swamped with repairs and haven't posted much.

2 words..

Artificial Tree joking


I made one years ago that held up well but made the pipe too small. Finally bought a big ass plastic one that holds like 2 gallons of water and a big trunk tree, might rival the Griswolds at times.

If you weld on any stainless and get enough heat or penetration to the backside with out shielding it, or having a backing plate it will "sugar".

Dave, that's the only way to get better with the opposite hand, practice and more practice. I intentionally use my left hand a fair bit, now I switch when ever I need to and don't even think about it. It's never as perfect as my RH but it looks pretty damn good. Nice job. Exnail- looks like a good s...

Been there done that....no gains. I built engines for some class race cars and we tried everything..lol You'd benefit more from having a little straight coming out of the flange before it hits the turn, but that means new headers. Welding on headers that have already been run in never fun..lol you'l...

I'd v groove it as well. My concern about not repairing it would be the likelihood that the heat stress from use would cause expansion that would crack the two parts worse and cause the center to drop out. I'm with Josh, this is what I would recommend as well. Would not take much to physically weld...

I think Jody did a review on it, but like Coldman mentioned, not practical in the real world... Learn how to feed the rod, take a piece of filler and do it while you sit on the couch, it will become effortless...which is what you want. Practice both hands, you'll need it.

I like it Kym.. I had to fix this mess.....I didn't take a pic of the repair actually turned out good, took 4 hours! Tried with backing tape to get all the way through but had issues since I could clamp the 13g sheet to keep it from moving. Plus the previous abortion of multiple repairs and grinding...

The amperage range can work but you need good gas coverage or they tend to turn out grey, however usually brush clean. I prefer to weld a little hotter and faster. With my sanitary stuff 1-3" I run a CK jumbo cup (1-1/8") 1/16" tung, 60amps pulse 2.5pps, 50% peak 50% background, full ...

Have a friend at work who was fitting a new beaver tail on his 1911 and took way to much metal off his frame. He asked me if I could build it back up for him. Need to build up 2 spots about 3/32 deep and 5/16 long. The frame is made of 416 stainless. I think I am going to use 309 filler wire since ...

Coldman wrote:Looking for some amps settings please:
1" and 2" sched 10 grd 304 butts.
3/32" electrode (lanth) and wire.
60* prep, knife edge, probable max 3/32" gap.
Will be purged.

Thanks guys.

They both will heat up pretty fast, depends on your speed but Id try one at 85amps

Tack, adjust, adjust some more, tack, measure, measure again, swear, drink a beer, repeat..lol A fixture would help but you still need to check, everything moves. When I do stainless frames Inset it off a few degrees since I have figured out how far it pulls. Planning out the tacks is critical, and ...

This car will not see any kind of competition. It is only going to be run on test and tune days and street nights maybe 2 or 3 times a year. I already spoke with my tech official and he said these kind of connectors will be acceptable for this reason because they are very strong. Sent from my SAMSU...