Lightning wrote:Looks like the last guy was scared of the Heat Crank.

When all else fails, give it another 5A and drive on!

What rod and amps would you use on 3/8 like in the pic?

Grind it as Poland said, but pre-heat it too. The heat will draw out a lot of the contamination before welding. Clean that away with Acetone, and you should tack repeatedly to put some heat in before welding. That will draw more goop out before you weld it up. Onsite repairs of industrial steel suc...

In a situation like that I would get a carbide burr in an end grinder to grind all the way through. I use the small cone shaped ones that are about 3/8 inch at the widest and are a small rounded off point. Even then you will still need to grind out the porosity after each pass. It may take 3 or 4 p...

So I've been TIG welding for two years now, but I don't do much stick. I find stick to be harder than TIG actually. Anyway, I got a small job this morning where I had to weld a bracket that broke in a carwash. I used the SMAW process. I practiced at home the night before and all was well. But when I...

Have any post flow? I don't know a whole lot but if I have a rod break off very easily it usually is lacking gas flow so after you terminate the arc is there any post flow? Its a squarwave tie 200 so it has auto post flow. I think the problem is the argon isn't wrapping around the pipe, so where it...

Good day all, I came across a problem when practicing pipe welding. When I stop the weld, I notice there is soot in front of where I terminated the arc. I am using laywire and walking the cup over it. The rod also breaks off the base metal easily when I'm done with a weld. Its hard to see in the pic...

In something 3/16 thick (5mm) I would have no gap and a small 1mm prep on one side. 150 amps can be reasonable expected to melt 2-2.5 mm in from both sides and therefore you'll get a nice strong weld that wont require the skill of keyholing. Thanks for the reply. When I use 150 amps, and 1/8 rod, t...

weldin mike 27 wrote:Can you get at both sides?

Yes I can get to all sides.

If it's a one time thing, or only comes up on occasion, play it safe: knife edge bevel, tight 3/32" gap, small root pass 80 amps watching it keyhole. I use a 3/32" rod so I can "freeze" the keyhole on each dip. Fill it on the next pass, or 2 fill passes if you need them. Increas...

Good Afternoon! So I have to TIG weld some 3/16" plate together (butt weld) and I wanted to ask how some of you would go about doing it. Would you go for a single pass weld with no bevel? Would you bevel and multi pass with lower amps? Im curious because I tried to do a single pass with no beve...

With laywire it’s best if gap and wire are the same size. If the wire is bigger as in this case incomplete penetration is high risk. Either widen your gap to 1/8” or use 3/32” wire. 105-110 amps and you’ll do fine. Probably 110-115amps for the second pass. Sent using Tapatalk I will try that again....

Coldman wrote:What technique are you using for the root pass. Key hole dip? Laywire?


Sent using Tapatalk

Laywire

What bevel angle are you using? About 35* is good for that thickness. Bevel to a fine point, no land. Set a 1/16” gap, four tacks. Grab your 3/32 rod and start washing it in. Remember as you travel uphill, the heat is accumulating quickly. Your picture shows a lot of sag on the inside, so I’d suspe...

What torch head and cup are you using? My buddy who is a pipeliner taught me to weld pipe and walk the cup, but insisted that a flex head torch and long nosed #8 (also uses the longer gas lens) was the key to making it easy on yourself. The extra length of the cup body helps provide more surface ar...

I can get the root pass in there just fine now. I am having trouble walking the cup around the pipe with the V groove and filling in.

cj737 wrote:That’s why those pipe welders earn big money. Looks easy until you’re upside down welding overhead Them boys get my respect!

What's big money? I'm interested in practicing and taking the 6g test. It may help getting a job in a fab shop too.

Holy Smokes! I just tried TIG welding the 6g pipe position on 4" pipe. I failed miserably. This was incredibly hard for me to do. I think I can get the root pass in there....but then walking the cup around that pipe was a fail for me. Anyone else have experience with this? I don't have a proble...

Just wanted to add an update. I increased the amperage to 165 and the puddle was much more fluent. Also waited till the metal cooled to 300 between passes. I have no undercut and a much better weld . Thank you everyone for your help!

I think it was 304. When I decided to use filler, i used 1/16, and I think thats too thick and causing the issues to.

Ok thanks. If you have a good fit up, is it necessary to use filler? I only added the filler for testing purposes. I feel like 16ga can be welded autogenous in most cases.

Hello, I was welding some stainless outside corner joints for practice, and wondered if anyone ever uses filler for this. When I weld it autogenous, it comes out great. But if I add filler, I have to increase the amps and then it gets out of control and gray. The 2nd pic shows when I tried adding fi...

Hello. Where in NY you from? Duchess County here.

I have that machine. I really like it so far.

I assume the sleeve also adds strength to the weld? Do you burn into the sleeve as well?

This needs to have no wobble when fully welded? I feel like that is almost impossible, but im not that experienced. I like the idea of clamping angle iron and tacking it in a bunch of places.