If your shop space is so small that the extra cylinder is a problem, then trade up to a 300. But if you ever run out/low and can't get more, youre stuck. With a spare cylinder, you'll likely always have enough to get through a weekend/holiday with gas when its needed. To each their own- But that sti...

You need to develop actual skills of managing heat, puddle size, and filler introduction. Pulse is very useful ONCE you learn how to crawl, then walk. Why teach someone to run on a treadmill when they can't manage a hill? You should also avoid trying to learn to weld stainless on 1mm scrap coupons. ...

I use those victor gauges on every tank I have (3 argon, 1 MiG, 1x oxy/acet) and have zero problems with them. Since you have two bottles currently, purging from the other is simple (another good reason to keep two bottles).

I don’t see how having a single larger bottle will solve your setup problems. Can you be more specific about what the actual problem is?

You should read the comments on that video. Typically people will use the proper TIG rod that already has a flux coating, use a flux paste, or simply use SMAW process if you’re using SMAW rods. It’s a hack that doesn’t make much sense to me. And it would never pass code work in sanitary pipe.

The #5 can also use a wedge collet, but that does not look like a Furick cup. Similar, but not the same.

I find it odd that you, as a new welder have such determination to ignore sound advice, and would speak so poorly of someone (Pacific Arc Tig) who has been welding for 20 years in a production environment. He clearly shows smaller cups in that video, but you seem to know everything yet can’t produce...

All of the examples in your latest picture show issues.

Maybe this video will help https://youtu.be/PE59reAtJRs?si=dn20UqUdyX0_zc60

If you weld the plates down, then you don’t have to allow much cooling between stitches. But let it cool fully before cutting the tacks loose.

It’s STILL a matter of gas coverage and cup size. You seem unwilling to use the recommended sizes and flow, so oxidation/overheating will occur no matter how fast you travel, what size filler, and how amps you use.

Until you change those variables, nothing will improve.

I too would weld in “quadrants” but I’d start in the middle with tacks, then out to the ends, tack, alternating sides and moving around. Think about the weld you just put down, where will it pull against? Weld there next to balance the stress. 180 amps seems high to me, I’d be lower and when stitchi...

One machine versus two. Welders that have built-in generators also usually produce far more available power than “portable generators”. You also have differing types of current generation within the generator market. So, not all generators can power a welder due to power draw.

Then I guess you know everything without the need to pose a question.

Plasma cutters are limited in amperage to the total thickness they can cut. It requires a lot of amps to rip through 2” thick stock. Whereas an OA setup really only needs an appropriate tip to deal with very thick material. As for shops that only have OA, perhaps they only deal with mild steel and i...

This entire years old thread is a solution in search of a problem. :roll: A single, moment of a rush of argon is completely inconsequential to welding. Anyone who doesn’t tap a pedal when first setting up, or checking for leaks after a tank swap is an alien. You can’t even begin to calculate the “lo...

I've seen those Chinese green o ring gas lenses and glass cup, what's your experience with them? Is the furrick cup much better? It's like 20 times the price. The Chinese standard cup works well so far. The Furick cups also are designed to be used with a specially manufactured gas lens that has an ...

I doubt heavily that a welder with a certification at risk would weld that. There’s too much liability in doing it. Same thing with climbing stands for deer hunters.

I run about the same DIG and the amps are pretty close (every machine, every person welds just a bit differently). It looks better, but your covering beads still look narrow on the manipulation to me. The root pass looks a bit slow in travel, but the tie-ins look way better to me. Remember, vertical...

Travel speed looks off to me. And I’d try to move a bit side-to-side to tie in the toes better ( makes a wider, less ropey bead). Your amps seem a bit high too. Try lowering to 95 and use some movement and see if a lower heat and wider travel don’t help you get what you want. You can always bump up ...

You could use 100% Argon to MIG but would have to switch to Silicon Bronze filler wire. Else, not a good choice.

Make sure you purge those stainless welds! You can buy, make or cobble together some inexpensive purging kits.

One thing I'd try first is to use a larger cup and some higher CFH. That material looks pretty "shagged out" to begin with, so some amount of discoloration is inevitable. Have you considered using Silicon Bronze wire? That looks to be a rust repair patch panel. I have great success with Si...

I’ve never purged mild steel. I’ve also not encountered “scale” on the backside of a weld to be an issue, stainless, CroMo, Ti, you bet I’d purge those. Are you cleaning the material properly on both sides? Are you running too much heat? I’m just asking because I don’t understand the circumstances n...

Spray MIG requires both the correct gas mixture and voltage. Pulse settings are heavily dependent on material thickness and wire diameter. It would be very helpful if you provided some basic information so that others can offer input.

I’d probably opt for lower settings and slower speeds and take my time. If you go with 3.2 you’ll be racing to keep from blowing out the material and potentially get a poor weld as a result. If you can read the puddle, using lower settings shouldn’t cause as much issue. Or you could try higher heat ...