I am also learning the skills for aluminum (just an old fart hobby welder here) and I have not perfected walking the cup upward in vertical but do find a slight sweeping motion on a inside fillet helps me, as well as guiding my tig finger on backside of piece like Jody does. Your welds look fine to...

I am also learning the skills for aluminum (just an old fart hobby welder here) and I have not perfected walking the cup upward in vertical but do find a slight sweeping motion on a inside fillet helps me, as well as guiding my tig finger on backside of piece like Jody does. Your welds look fine to ...

At work we used synflex gray hose and duct tape or aluminum foil to hold in place, dual regulator with ball column gauge

:lol: NIce work. I am laughing because someone else posted their stove in "what I welded today like 5 minutes before you did". Good job though...they work great but forget about trying to keep paint on it. That would be me, LOL, I haven't decided upon the feeder tube being maybe 20 degree...

I built a rocket stove. They are cool for 15 minutes and then....I gave mine to my best friend to take to his campsite. He amazes the neighbors by cooking sweet corn on it. He's having fun with it so it was worth it to build for him. If I still had it, it would have been cannibalized into something...

Decided to see if these rocket stoves are all they are supposed to be, will try soon, only had 1/8 inch 3 x 4 next one will be 14 ga. 4 x 4 made with intention of carrying in a bucket with a bunch of kindling and lid on top, I will be everyone's best friend on a wet morning and coffee is not ready.

Oil soaked metal is the worst. I've done some SS tanks that were used for oil/ammonia/fly ash/ ??? Mix. It boiled out as you welded. You had to weld everything 4x to get one good weld. I had to weld a broken piece from a meat slicer , the part that deflects the meat onto the receiving tray, and it ...

Sweet ! Like the parallel blocks, been thinking about getting a couple myself. My apprentice days in machine shop had to make jo blocks, 1,2,3 blocks, angle blocks and parallels, all from scratch entailed precision grinding and heat treat and use them to this day. Very good skill to learn. There wa...

FYI Walmart online sells shoes in bulk

Have the Everlast 160 sth not an AC unit but does fine job TIG and stick for me. Also have the Lincoln Squarewave 200 and it does have AC and DC so I am learning to weld aluminum. It has been a pleasure to own and highly recommend. I think it will even do 1/4 material non critical of course not sure...

donzi426 wrote:Hi Bruce991: Nice photos. That's exactly what I'm trying to do. I'll check for argon leak, but I've tried other metals - Mild Steel and Aluminum w/o a problem.

Well that means your shoes are fighting you somehow.

donzi426 wrote:Thanks Poland308 for the information. I will try using a larger filler rod. Do you think pre-heating the horseshoe would also help?

No to preheating your not getting the argon shielding IMO, try 180 amps

Strange I make all kinds of things from old and new shoes never had any problems. I do use 2% lanthenated tungsten and find them very easy to run a nice bead. Maybe you have a leak on the argon. I do use gas lens #8 on everything. I have welded some right out of box no prep no issues.

This past year I got stung on back of hand as I rolled trailer up to car, they hit me so fast I couldn't believe it and had bad reaction and swelling for days. Next time I had to use trailer I sprayed some wasp spray in frame and waited, thought all clear grabbed coupler and damn nest in tongue area...

My first welder is a Everlast 160 STH still have it. It did shutdown on me and their customer service got me a new entire board was entire guts within a week from China of course. As I tore into it found a shorted wire had melted to the frame. SO I have spare control board now. In meantime I bought ...

1/8 inch sheet? I would approach that at 125 to 135 (foot pedal), DCEN, 3/32 tungsten and 1/16 filler myself, #8 cup 15 CFH. If steel material a ER70S2 filler. You get the ripple affect by applying filler in consistent manner, but that takes a lot of practice. I prefer a dab dab dab approach. Keepin...

Funny to hear about rotting out. My trailer was built in 1969 yes 1969 and sat outside and is still in fine shape. The corners are not mitered though so air flows through the frame easily allowing no water entrapment. But is a place wasps like to migrate, so I recently put plastic plugs in the four ...

Had neighbor come over with his trailer it has L angle frame and tongue and he loaned it out. Person tried to drive a Kubota up on to it (this was 2 inch by 2 inch L channel frame and tongue), when front end of tractor approached back of trailer the tongue bent immediately as it tried to reach for t...

I just decided shut of the bottle and leave regulator as is, see no harm in either way I figure.

Not to kill the buzz but using angle for a trailer has proven to be weak in my experience. Often see twisted frame tongues especially due to the fact that angle can be bent in two more axis than a square tubing. I would use square for a trailer.

I always find my progression is jerky due to the cup not sliding as I wiggle. The cup shouldn't be sliding, the edge of the cup should be rolling along the surface. Jody gave a good analogy on one of his videos, he says it's like moving a heavy barrel across the floor. You tip the barrel one way an...

Okay going to try again to walk the cup on inside T joint on carbon steel scrap. I always find my progression is jerky due to the cup not sliding as I wiggle. So got thinking has anyone tried sanding the porcelain to a bigger radius where it rides on the steel? To make the action more forgiving as y...

Hope your looking at 10.9 grade shoulder bolts and not soft hardware grade bolts or you will buying bolts by the pack.

I would use 309 or 316 SS filler myself

Best to sneak up on it and get it right than not be a craftsman and scrap the part. .002 press maximum on most of my machining jobs. Most accurate final size on a shaft would be done on a centerless grinder, and a ID with a reaming, or ID grinder.