General welding questions that dont fit in TIG, MIG, Stick, or Certification etc.
Toobaro
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Thanks in advance! I built a small welding project table. I took the bottom barrel off of a 55gal barrel BBQ, beefed up the angle iron frame with 1in heavy wall square tubing. I welded a 3/8 in sheet of flat plate to the table top. After all welds cooled it checked dead on for flatness across all areas ,front to back,end to end and diagonal corner to corner.. After welding on it for several years now it isn't dead flat in the area I use the most. I have used a flap sander 120 grit to remove spatter. Question is have I worn it out? I can and do position the projects (small) in the better area. Yes, the back folds down to cover the table while still keeping all the tools supported on the hood. I have side curtains for windy days.
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As long as it works for the projects you do that's all that matters, looks good and certainly a unique design
Richard
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I suggest using a grinding cup to remove spatter and tack welds. It won't penetrate the surface the a flapper or a grinding disk will. If you are welding something precise, then you may have to replace the table. If you are welding art and crafts type stuff, then you are likely fine. How out of flat is it? If you really need to, you can level the table with lost of steel shims of various thickness and put a new piece of 12 ga sheet metal on it.
cj737
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WirelessG wrote:If you really need to, you can level the table with lost of steel shims of various thickness and put a new piece of 12 ga sheet metal on it.
I think it would be better to cut the welds underneath where the top is tacked, shim it, then re-tack it once flat and true. Laying 12ga on top of 3/8, the 12ga will buckle pretty quickly.

Spraying the top with a spatter-releasing agent prior to welding is a cheap and useful habit. ;)
TraditionalToolworks
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I think it looks dandy! Reminds me of my table I have been using...it has character! :D

It's not an assembly table, per se.

My opinion is that you will never get a perfectly flat table by using a sheet. You can try to support it from underneath, I have one or two pieces of angle welded under to help support the sheet, but you can push hard and deflect mine. You could weld some tube under the sheet from side to side, build a grid, would seem to be flat enough. It's not a surface plate.

That's why I would just use it as-is, keep welding and grinding away on it. At the point if/when you do build/buy something flatter, don't design it with sheet. Something like a certiflat table could be a good investment in that regard, but unless you're really pressed for space, why not keep this little table as well? You've got a few years out of it already. ;)

Good little grinding area also. 8-)

Alan
Collector of old Iron!

Alan
homeboy
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Is it not flat from grinding material off over time or distorted downwards from the heat of welding on top over time? If it's from heat is it possible to put heat to the bottom side to distort it back up to flat? Similar to straightening a tubing that has been welded on one side and crowned a bit and can be straightened by heating the opposite side. Never tried it on a flat plate myself. A light spray of anti-spatter does work well for easy cleanup.
Toobaro
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Thank you all for comments. I have used the antispatter sprays in the past but for me it's kind of like "Henerys" roof patch, I get that stuff Everywhere! I'll try the heat from the underside and for sure use a cup grinder when cleaning up for the day.
Poland308
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My table isn’t totally flat either. I use levels and shims to keep stuff straight. Washers make good shims. You can just tack them unto place.
I have more questions than answers

Josh
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Toobaro wrote:Thank you all for comments. I have used the antispatter sprays in the past but for me it's kind of like "Henerys" roof patch, I get that stuff Everywhere! I'll try the heat from the underside and for sure use a cup grinder when cleaning up for the day.
The anti spatter I use from TSC (Canada),Powerweld, is thin as water. Just a light spray to dampen is all it takes and it pretty much seems to almost disappear when heated, but it works. Almost no cleanup and paint compatible. I bought a can of the thicker, more expensive stuff once to try. Tried it on one test weld and gave it away!
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