Kemppi, yeah?
Quality machines, and popular here in Australia, too, although I have heard that some (maybe all?) models use non-standard sockets/attachment points for torches, earth and pedal.
I imagine that there are many good years in that one yet. And I like your dust cover!
Kym
General welding questions that dont fit in TIG, MIG, Stick, or Certification etc.
- MosquitoMoto
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Weldmonger
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Posts:
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Joined:Sat Aug 01, 2015 8:38 am
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Location:The Land Down Under
Yeah it's a kemppi, they do seem to use their own versions, but up here in Finland and the nordics I don't really know if they got a standard at all, everyone seems to run their own connections. My machine uses amphenol ms3106a connectors, 4 and 10 pin outlets. I think modern kemppis use 7 pin amphenols and route everything through that one socket.
Dust cover broke unfortunately, the material was very brittle after heat forming. I should get some real polycarbonate some day.
Dust cover broke unfortunately, the material was very brittle after heat forming. I should get some real polycarbonate some day.
Talent.
Pixies and smoke scare me away from attempting someything like that.
Pixies and smoke scare me away from attempting someything like that.
Everlast 250EX
Miller 250 syncrowave
Sharp LMV Vertical Mill
Takisawa TSL-800-D Lathe
Coupla Bandsaws,Grinders,surface grinder,tool/cutter grinder
and more stuff than I deserve(Thanks Significant Other)
Miller 250 syncrowave
Sharp LMV Vertical Mill
Takisawa TSL-800-D Lathe
Coupla Bandsaws,Grinders,surface grinder,tool/cutter grinder
and more stuff than I deserve(Thanks Significant Other)
Thanks, yeah it sounds hard but I had a lot of help from electronics forums and google and also the local electronics store. The most difficult part was learning the cad program, I have some experience with sketchup and other graphics programs so that helped a bit.FoxZulu wrote:Fantastic job. Did you make the pcb yourself?
With a pre-sensitised board all I had to do was to print the design on some OH film, peel of the protective layer and sandwich it together firmly and place it under a light source that emits UV (used a CFL lamp), then develop (immerse) it in a lye solution afterwards, then it's ready for etching. Which was just mixing some power and water together and letting it soak.
I used to fight with my pedal all the time and got really tired of that shit. Now I position it before I start welding and when it moves, oh well. I'll use it sideways under my foor and squeeze it with my heal or if it gets really awkward then I'll just kick it over to the other foot and keep going. I'm slightly abusive with my pedal so I'm not sure those knobs would work for me either.MosquitoMoto wrote:while welding I am forever moving that pedal around, generally with a haphazard push of the foot, as I reposition myself to tackle another part of the project I'm on.
Raymond
Everlast PowerTIG 255EXT
Everlast PowerTIG 255EXT
rahtreelimbs
- rahtreelimbs
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Heavy Hitter
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Posts:
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Joined:Mon Jun 14, 2010 10:39 pm
rahtreelimbs
- rahtreelimbs
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Heavy Hitter
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Posts:
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Joined:Mon Jun 14, 2010 10:39 pm
RamboBaby wrote:He already explained that.rahtreelimbs wrote:I never saw a pedal that had a circuit board........why does yours need one?
Ok...thanx.
Check a new ESAB pedal then.....rahtreelimbs wrote:I never saw a pedal that had a circuit board........
It "talks" with the machine thru a CAN-bus. Like, hey the bloke that stomps on me wants 100 A, wait now give me 105 A. Crap he cant decide, gimme 103 A now....
Kills the aftermarket brands and makes it very difficult to copy unless you have skills in both electronics, programming and have access to their can protocol.
Pictures from my scrap collection:
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
If that's what you did with "no electronics experience" I don't even know what I would classify as........
Very nice build and the knobs look awesome, I think your idea of putting most electronics in a seperate box is a good idea as you might get tired of reaching down and adjusting but then again, maybe not. Either way, looks great.
Very nice build and the knobs look awesome, I think your idea of putting most electronics in a seperate box is a good idea as you might get tired of reaching down and adjusting but then again, maybe not. Either way, looks great.
if there's a welder, there's a way
x2Olivero wrote:I think your idea of putting most electronics in a seperate box is a good idea
Either way, looks great.
Think I will do the same, put the pot in a separate box and make it possible to use the torch switch without changing connectors.
Too often I change the max current while repositioning the pedal with my feet.
Pictures from my scrap collection:
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=9&t=5677
I'm doing something similar. Have been using a Weldcraft RCCS 14 for 5 years but now need foot pedal. The dial is actually a spur gear at around 13 teeth to the inch so I used a 1/2"x 13 UNC tap to thread the inside of a plastic pipe, then cut the pipe into strips to make a rack. Simple and fast.
Same kind of pedal but a pull-pull cable system to pull the rack. No mods to the RCCS 14
Same kind of pedal but a pull-pull cable system to pull the rack. No mods to the RCCS 14
JFF45
- JFF45
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Active Member
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Posts:
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Joined:Thu Dec 29, 2016 6:13 pm
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Location:Morayfield, QLD Australia
My first time replying to a thread on this forum so hope it works..
The pedal supplied with my machine had a 1k pot on the side that was supposed to limit the max amps but when I opened it to see why it didn't work I found it had no wires connected to it. It was only there for the sales brochure pic, lol.
I added and wired in a 25k linear pot to limit the range but found the knob on the pedal itself not very practical to use down there so I removed it and put it in its own box close to the machine.
...
The pedal supplied with my machine had a 1k pot on the side that was supposed to limit the max amps but when I opened it to see why it didn't work I found it had no wires connected to it. It was only there for the sales brochure pic, lol.
I added and wired in a 25k linear pot to limit the range but found the knob on the pedal itself not very practical to use down there so I removed it and put it in its own box close to the machine.
...
- IMG_4775.JPG (48.06 KiB) Viewed 3558 times
John
I recently finished that mod, I also got a new cable with 5 wires in it, so now I only got one cable running from the pedal and the controls in a plywood box on the welder. Still a bit half-assed, not quite sure where I want to place it, but I am thinking of bending a bracket so I can just hook the box over the welder and it can hang on the side.Olivero wrote:If that's what you did with "no electronics experience" I don't even know what I would classify as........
Very nice build and the knobs look awesome, I think your idea of putting most electronics in a seperate box is a good idea as you might get tired of reaching down and adjusting but then again, maybe not. Either way, looks great.
With the new CK17 torch and it's super-flex cable, it's a whole different ball game.
- WoodpeckerWelder
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Workhorse
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Posts:
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Joined:Sun Feb 12, 2017 1:08 am
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Location:N Georgia USA
Definitely a great example of necessity being the mother of invention. I have found that most folks in this trade are smarter than the average bear anyway. Great job!
"Why is there never time to do anything right the first time but always time to do it again?"
- WoodpeckerWelder
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Workhorse
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Posts:
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Joined:Sun Feb 12, 2017 1:08 am
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Location:N Georgia USA
Hobbyist or not, it takes a bit of knowledge about a lot of things (metallurgy, thermal dynamics, electricity in general) to be a fairly competent welder. You may have picked it up as a hobby, but I bet you learned a few things about those subjects along the way.DennisCA wrote:Thanks, though I am not in the trade, just a hobbyist who started in 2015 with an old used stick welder.
"Why is there never time to do anything right the first time but always time to do it again?"
Love your attitude, DennisCA, and great work. If you need it, build it!
I want a pedal too, for my old MasterTig 3500W. I weld cast bronze, so it's hard to do without a pedal, due to the varying thickness and angles.
My question is: would you maybe share the diagram and especially the pinouts of the connectors with us? Our local Kemppi rep here in Malmö, Sweden is entirely unhelpful. He would rather I pay him to do the job, which doesn't really work for me!? Duh.
I have the same 4-pin and 10-pin connectors as you do.
Cheers,
I want a pedal too, for my old MasterTig 3500W. I weld cast bronze, so it's hard to do without a pedal, due to the varying thickness and angles.
My question is: would you maybe share the diagram and especially the pinouts of the connectors with us? Our local Kemppi rep here in Malmö, Sweden is entirely unhelpful. He would rather I pay him to do the job, which doesn't really work for me!? Duh.
I have the same 4-pin and 10-pin connectors as you do.
Cheers,
A hack a day...
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