[Poland308]

Is that a pic of the side of the plate you welded or is that the back side. If it's the back side then that is what's called sugaring from not being purged on the back side.

[exnailpounder]

Is that a pic of the side of the plate you welded or is that the back side. If it's the back side then that is what's called sugaring from not being purged on the back side.

X2...that looks like the backside of the plate to me.

[Olivero]

I really hope that's the backside of the plate....

[Danylo66]

IMG_20170113_121207820.jpg (20.77 KiB) Viewed 7576 times

The weld on the right is at 80 amps. To hot.
The weld on the left is at aprox 35 amps.
2% Lanthenated 1/16 Tungsten.
15 % argon. On 1/8 stainless sheet.
Weld on the left, only change between the two is the amps. If I keep welding, the weld gets dirtier.
Seems as the argon is used it stirs up contaminants. No air leaks in the line at all.
I first noticed this while welding 3/4 round,1/8 wall stainless tube onto 1/8 plate, for a purge canister for oil.

[Olivero]

Aaaaah.

It's really difficult to see what you are doing. The stainless weld on the left looks gorgeous, those colours show that your weld temp was correct. The HAZ seems to be really wide though, I weld a lot of stainless and I never get that wide of a burnt area around the weld.

The one on the left, I don't even know what that is, looks like you just ran the torch on it hot for fun.

What do you mean, 15% argon?

When welding stainless, get a puddle and move, if you stay on the same spot cooking it, it will not have those nice colours. Even if you are welding it too hot, it will be a grayer colour. Judging from your colours, your Argon seems just fine.

Run a 6" bead on a plate like you normally would. Show us that.

[exnailpounder]

Are you using Argon or mig gas? Something is way off here. Your entraining air or something into your welds and it looks like your not even cleaning/prepping you metal. You can't make a good weld over the oxide layer on stainless. Watch Jody's videos.

[Danylo66]

Sorry I didnt mention 15 CFH gas flow. The picture on the right is at recomended settings,80-120 I get this burnt mess and burn through. #5 cup. plain ceramic cup. 2% Lanth. tungs. 100% Argon (Im`m convinsed its bad gas)
The picture on the right is the amperage set at 35 amps aprox. It will weld okay for a few welds then gets all dirty.
I have tried cleaning and whiping with acetone, and new tips and checking everything.
the 2 welds in my second picture were done quickly to show that My welder seems to work better at, not the recomended settings. Ive heard different welders can be off on settings. I am using a foot pedal to watch and create a nice weld pool. only then am I dabbing. Letting the weld pool melt the filler rod.
The previous tank that I had before this one I could weld clean on stainless. Thats the olny thing that changed sinse is the tank.
The welder is maybe a year old.

[dirtmidget33]

Do the test with your torch and correct arc length like I explained earlier which is just like gas coverage test at 1:24 in this video. This will show us what your gas coverage and welder is doing with out variables being introduced by person running a bead.

https://youtu.be/9-mnZ2oyCxM

Just to make sure also, is your torch hooked up electrode negative .

[Danylo66]

IMG_20170113_214917805_HDR.jpg (35.63 KiB) Viewed 7557 times

Dirtmidget33 first off I made a mistake, it's 1/16 thick stainless sheet. Here is the picture of the test same as the video Jamie posted. All the same settings.

[Olivero]

Well, if you are convinced its bad gas, why not just get it replaced and we will see?

[dirtmidget33]

Okay now that we got test results let's check couple of other things.
1. Your tungsten stick out, how much do you have. With a #5 standard you can not have much stickout I use CK worldwide recommendation that stick out be no more than 3 times diameter of tungsten. Also #5 is not gonna give you real good gas coverage as you move forward. The metal behind the weld pool will be exposed to the oxygen while still hot. Cup just not big enough to cover that area. To me this cup is waste of time on stainless to begin with.

2. What did your tungsten look like after test, was it blue or black instead of looking like it's normal color. If so increase post flow so gas keeps tungsten from oxidizing while hot.

3. Make sure to keep torch over area after you stop arc until post flow stops

4. Arc length keep tight arc length. Here is what I mean by tight length, arc length is same as tungsten

0114171323b_HDR-1.jpg (41.58 KiB) Viewed 7562 times

5. Correct any issues above and retest.

Took some sample pics to give you stick out reference and how weld pool looks with couple of different cups. Same tungsten and flow rates for all just different collets and cups. These are just puddling metal. Used same piece of metal wire brushed between cup changes. Can see old puddle from previous cup in couple of pics.

This is a number 5 cup 3/32 2% lanthanated tungsten 1/8 304 stainless flow is 15. Notice some blue coloring in puddle around core.

0114171303a_HDR-1.jpg (29.54 KiB) Viewed 7562 times

Number 8 cup. Notice it gets used more than standard cup. Personally never use standard cups, figure I get better coverage with a lens why bother with regular collet bodies. Notice puddle is shiny, blue color is outside of weld puddle. I should have used a new lens, This lens is headed out to junk pile, has crap built up on screen.

0114171256b_HDR-1.jpg (51.87 KiB) Viewed 7562 times

1 1/8 inch cup. This cup I get better results if I turn up flow for this demonstration it is same setting though.

0114171315b_HDR-1.jpg (39 KiB) Viewed 7562 times

[Danylo66]

Thanks for the info. I just piced up a #8 cup to try. I will order a gas lens kit soon as my budget allows.
For now I will go through what you posted and will get back to you when I`m done.
My machine is all manual, so I am the pre flow and post flow control.
My Tungsten stays clean, I guess I either have the flow correct for that or am holding longer. I ussually count to five for pre and post. Thanks.

[dirtmidget33]

Your welcome hope you get it figured out.

[GreinTime]

Thanks for the info. I just piced up a #8 cup to try. I will order a gas lens kit soon as my budget allows.
For now I will go through what you posted and will get back to you when I`m done.
My machine is all manual, so I am the pre flow and post flow control.
My Tungsten stays clean, I guess I either have the flow correct for that or am holding longer. I ussually count to five for pre and post. Thanks.

You can start welding before you count to one for your preflow my friend. You're just wasting argon in 95% of the cases

Sent from my VS995 using Tapatalk

[Danylo66]

1/16 Stainless square tube.

IMG_20170204_131141523.jpg (33.23 KiB) Viewed 7512 times

Pie cut 3" Stainless practice.

IMG_20170401_231318339.jpg (40.28 KiB) Viewed 7512 times

Hopefully I uploaded this properly. Thanks to everyone for your input. I took everyones advice and applied it to my welds. Turns out that the fitting on my regulator had a tiny leak in it, as well as the valve on the bottle.
It took me a long time to find this, as I was trying out all the different ideas that everyone posted.
It was frustrating but in the end with all your help I believe ive become a better welder.
Great learning experience.
From now on i will do a leak test more often. I need to pick up some more leak test solution, but its cheaper then running out of Argon to quickly. The Argon supplier changed out the bottle at no charge. Later when I found the leak at the regulator I offered to pay for the bottle, but he would not take the money. I offered to pay at least half and we settled at that, so that was good.

THANKS Danylo Iwanusiw

[Farmwelding]

Wow... Thats a nice welding supply store

[Danylo66]

Yes there great. Not sure if i can post there name, don`t know the rules on that, They have been so patient with me since I started. I walked in the first time and stated I know nothing about Tig welding and they walked me through of what I needed. Even Gave me discounts as opposed to the other suppliers. Not bad mouthing the others, they are only able to do so much.

[LtBadd]

I need to pick up some more leak test solution, but its cheaper then running out of Argon to quickly.
THANKS Danylo Iwanusiw

Try using water with dish washing soap mixed in, it will bubble if you have a leak, and it's free.

[Danylo66]

I was always under the impression that soapy water affects the gas.
If it does not thats great alot cheaper.
Thanks

[LtBadd]

I was always under the impression that soapy water affects the gas.
If it does not thats great alot cheaper.
Thanks

Not sure I follow what you're saying, you're using the solution to check around gas connections for leaks, right? I use a small brush, like an acid brush to apply.

acid brush.jpg (31.91 KiB) Viewed 1439 times

[Poland308]

If your worried about corrosion then go to a heating and cooling supplier. Look for something like this

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Nu-Calgon-41 ... ector-6-oz

It will already have an applicator in the cap. And that is enough to last you years.

[Danylo66]

I was always under the impression that soapy water affects the gas.
If it does not thats great alot cheaper.
Thanks

Not sure I follow what you're saying, you're using the solution to check around gas connections for leaks, right? I use a small brush, like an acid brush to apply.

acid brush.jpg

I get what your saying, but I heard it was not good to use dish sopa. But if you have used it and the weld was not affected then I will give it a try.

[Danylo66]

If your worried about corrosion then go to a heating and cooling supplier. Look for something like this

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Nu-Calgon-41 ... ector-6-oz

It will already have an applicator in the cap. And that is enough to last you years.

Ill look into it Thanks

[Otto Nobedder]

The leak detector solution we use at work is the name-brand Swagelok Snoop, because that's what a major client specifies, and it works great. For a dirt-cheap home-made alternative, use one gallon distilled water, one tablespoon plain green dish detergent (like Polmolive), and one teaspoon Glycerin (available at better pharmacies).

If you use a quart of distilled water, this is awesome bubble solution for your kids.

Steve S

[LtBadd]

The leak detector solution we use at work is the name-brand Swagelok Snoop, because that's what a major client specifies, and it works great. For a dirt-cheap home-made alternative, use one gallon distilled water, one tablespoon plain green dish detergent (like Polmolive), and one teaspoon Glycerin (available at better pharmacies).

If you use a quart of distilled water, this is awesome bubble solution for your kids.

Steve S

Yea, we have the Swagelok at work also...Swagelok = $$$ but also quality, some years back I got to fly out of Clearwater on Swagelok's jet with a group to tour their facilities, great experience.