Erich wrote:I would make some spacers to fit between the two bearings.
Use 5/8 od 1/16 wall tubing. Open the id so the bolt fits thru.
Press the bearings in with the spacer between the inner rings.
Now you can install the 1/2 inch bolt and tighten the daylights out of it and it won't put any undue stress on the bearings.
Another spacer on the outside will set the location of the wheel relative to the main structural plate.
I was starting to post that same thing in my last remarks but if he does it correctly the inner race could be on solid meat just like a spacer would be. I was thinking on the lines of a motorcycle wheel how there is a spacer tube between the bearings for the same reason.
The width of the bearing is 3/8. My plan is to cut the bearing opening to that 3/8 depth in a ring that will touch only the inner bearing ring, and cut the rest of the opening a touch deeper. That should provide that same compressibility of the tube idea.
Artie F. Emm wrote:The width of the bearing is 3/8. My plan is to cut the bearing opening to that 3/8 depth in a ring that will touch only the inner bearing ring, and cut the rest of the opening a touch deeper. That should provide that same compressibility of the tube idea.
You got it. The tube on a motorcycle wheel for example is precisely machined to allow the axle nut to be torqued while keeping the bearing from any unwanted lateral force which would greatly shorten the life of the bearing. But you got that figured out so go for it.
Used to tick me off as a kid with roller skates, when you hold the center of the bearing the outer spins just fine. When you install and have two bearings on that axle because they didnt have spacers in between when tightened it up it would put lateral force on the bearing and bind it up and so you'd have to back off the nut. Always seemed a dumb design to me. It basically means the bearings inner race can rotate on the axle. I'm pretty sure they're still like that. I think its just the weight of the rider that forces the axle down on the inner race and the bearing takes the line of least resistance and works normally rather than spinning on the axle.
As for the grinder, what would be its primary use? I had something very similar in mind but with a removable front end that could be swapped out for an attachment like this. Having the entire unit mounted to a 6 or 8 inch square post concreted in the ground would be great especially if you wanted to hinge it so it could be rotated to a horizontal plane. I was thinking along the lines of knife making and general purpose
I'm thinking of general fabrication use. For knife makers a machine like this is a must have, but i'm not a knife maker... yet, at least. Swapping ends out and using rollers like the ones in your link, rotating 90* for grinding on a long edge- it's a very versatile machine. This link shows the machine in use and swapping ends out, and shows it quickly and easily fishmouthing pipes for welding, which is an eye opener!
The tube on a motorcycle wheel for example is precisely machined to allow the axle nut to be torqued while keeping the bearing from any unwanted lateral force which would greatly shorten the life of the bearing. But you got that figured out so go for it.
