General welding questions that dont fit in TIG, MIG, Stick, or Certification etc.
- Otto Nobedder
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kermdawg
- kermdawg
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Question for you (mainly otto)-
If he did braze this joint, would annealing be a problem? Ive had a lot of experience with brazing copper and I know after we're done you can actually take a piece of 4" copper and bend it with your body weight into a worthless piece of scrap.
If he did braze this joint, would annealing be a problem? Ive had a lot of experience with brazing copper and I know after we're done you can actually take a piece of 4" copper and bend it with your body weight into a worthless piece of scrap.
Signature? Who needs a F***ing signature?
I whacked the little bronze end tab with a ball-peen. It only bent slightly at the thinnest where the mounting screw was cut off. The bronze base will be fit and brazed to the ID so it would reinforce the SS tubing. I'll try to keep most of the heat at the thicker bronze center. Should be OK.
Charlie
- Otto Nobedder
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We're not talking copper tube/pipe here. jtybt keeps referring to "bronze", so the alloy is similar to brass. The annealing should not be an issue, as it would be with copper.kermdawg wrote:Question for you (mainly otto)-
This is closer to brazing a brass valve body to SS in process piping.
Steve
- Otto Nobedder
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kermdawg,
I misunderstood your question.
The heat cycle should have almost no effect on the SS; Brazing is well below the temps that would harden/embrittle the stainless. (For 304, you have to approach the temps that would "sugar" a weld to significantly affect the properties.)
There are alloys of stainless where this could be a problem. I think Jody has a video on SS alloys that touches on this.
Steve
I misunderstood your question.
The heat cycle should have almost no effect on the SS; Brazing is well below the temps that would harden/embrittle the stainless. (For 304, you have to approach the temps that would "sugar" a weld to significantly affect the properties.)
There are alloys of stainless where this could be a problem. I think Jody has a video on SS alloys that touches on this.
Steve
another option for this situation would be 'hard' silver solder. it's technically brazing, but you use a liquid or paste flux and need tight fitups similar to soft soldering. an 'easy' solver solder would be the best bet. I've done some jewelry work before and it's a pleasure to work with, but the price of silver right now makes it somewhat cost prohibitive. it's damn handy for attaching carbides to things, though. I think I learned that trick from someone on this board, too.
- Otto Nobedder
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ogorir,
Now that you've said that, that's how I connect brass valves to 304, with hard silver solder. Almost brazing, but not quite. Fortunately, this has been at work, and I didn't have to buy the rod. Seems to me the last batch we bought was well over $50/pound.
Steve
Now that you've said that, that's how I connect brass valves to 304, with hard silver solder. Almost brazing, but not quite. Fortunately, this has been at work, and I didn't have to buy the rod. Seems to me the last batch we bought was well over $50/pound.
Steve
try about $50/oz for silver solder pure silver is trading around 38 bucks/oz right now. and not to nitpick, but AWS refers to joining metals together above 800f but less than the melting temp of the base metal as brazing. I still think of it as solder because it works like plumbing solder.
- Otto Nobedder
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I knew it $50 something. I didn't realize "per OZ". As I said, my employer bought the stuff. I just turn half of it into useless droplets.
I agree with you. It's solder. I don't nitpick those definitions, either. To my mind, brazing involves a copper/zinc/etc. alloy filler.
Steve.
I agree with you. It's solder. I don't nitpick those definitions, either. To my mind, brazing involves a copper/zinc/etc. alloy filler.
Steve.
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