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http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/6011-welding.html

This weeks video is a short list of tips for doing a vertical tee using 6011 welding rods.
Also a quick explanation of how the dig function bumps up amperage when it senses a drop in voltage due to a very short arc like when you are about to stick the rod. ( thats why they call it "stick welding" right??)

anyone out there like to take a minute and weigh in on tips for 6011 or 6010 vertical uphill?
Is 6011 only used in welding schools for learning? Is 6011 just a Farmers rod?...or have you worked at jobs where they used 6011 for pipe roots?

peace out.
Jody
BDoubleU

Good video ... I agree completely with your dig settings and body positioning. Let's face it, welding can put you in some awkward positions and if you don't plan ahead - you'll be twisted like a pretzel before you reach the end of the weld :) I like to run 6010 and 6011 on the cold side of the range ... so I have more control over the puddle. I use the dig or arc force adjustment as you mentioned - to keep my arc lit. In fact, any time I need more "punch", I can simply plunge the rod toward the puddle and let my dig kick in some extra amps. This is especially helpful in a an open root situation. At the same time, if you find the arc little hot ... you may be able to exagerate your whip (pull away a little more than normal) and hesitate before resuming in the joint. Most stick machines will "droop" and bring the current down, cooling this off without extinguishing the arc.

Now, 6010 is a touch animal to run ... and many inverters simply will not keep the arc lit when using a "whip & step" technique. If you find that your machine won't burn a 6010 smoothly, you can try a 6011 ... which runs very similar, but has a few elements in the flux coating to keep the arc lit. These flux additives are what allows 6011 to be used on AC ... so give it a shot if 6010 won't cooperate.

Brent
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nickn372
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I like running 6010 uphill on open root welds. I dont usually run a 6011. It seems to me to be more of a farmers rod that they can run on their buzz boxes. If I am not running an open root I never go up with a 6010 just down. My preference thougb.
Be the monkey....
BDoubleU

Exaclty right ... 6010 is your "code rod" and 6011 was designed for AC buzz boxes. :D
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Many years ago, I worked in a fab shop, building, among other things, handrails, banistrades, balustrades, and fences. It took some convincing, as I was still considered "green", but I got them to buy 6011 for our DC inverters for field work. This was when inverters were fairly new technology.

I don't know why, exactly, but on an inverter, 6011 works great DCEP on thin sections. Their top handrail guy, a real prima-donna, was even sold on the idea, and he hated me.

Steve S
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BDoubleU

Otto Nobedder wrote:I don't know why, exactly, but on an inverter, 6011 works great DCEP on thin sections. Their top handrail guy, a real prima-donna, was even sold on the idea, and he hated me.
At one time I was told there was "phosporous" in the coating of a 6011 electrode. However, I later learned that potassium helps stabilize the arc on AC. 6013 & 7018 also have a potassium coating - which allows them to be used on AC current.

The inverter observation is something I've also ran into. The original Maxstar 140 from Miller was a European import in the early 2000's. That unit would not sustain an arc on E6010. However, it ran 6011, 6013 and 7018 (even Stainless E308) very well. After some investigation, I learned it was the same flux coating that allowed these electrodes to operate better on small inverters - because they don't have the output inductor to handle an electrode like 6010. Now, bury the arc in a root with the amperage cranked & the Maxstar 140 (now the 150) will burn a 6010 rod, but that's about it. I always test new inverters with a 1/8" 6010 ... draw a long arc & then plunge back into the puddle.

This is an interesting article that compares the 2 electrodes:

http://www.thefabricator.com/article/co ... 1-and-7018
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