Comments & questions on new & past videos
dieselfitter
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    Mon Feb 18, 2013 12:18 pm

just a thought but maybe he is using a stitch attachment to give a brief pause and then weld another puddle. I used this doing welds on thin material to avoid warping and keep the heat transfer low. The other possibility is to pulse the trigger and lay one bead on top of the other . just my 2 cents worth.
This is a very interesting and informative site and your videos are very good. I also like your casual approach to the welding processes shown, makes us all feel were welcome to contribute.
ZTFab
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    Thu Feb 14, 2013 11:41 am

dieselfitter wrote:just a thought but maybe he is using a stitch attachment to give a brief pause and then weld another puddle. I used this doing welds on thin material to avoid warping and keep the heat transfer low. The other possibility is to pulse the trigger and lay one bead on top of the other . just my 2 cents worth.
This is a very interesting and informative site and your videos are very good. I also like your casual approach to the welding processes shown, makes us all feel were welcome to contribute.

Have you read ANY of this thread? :roll:

Particularly the parts where I explain how I do this technique and point out that I do NOT use any pulsing, triggering, spot/stitch timers, or special machines?

This is where I get frustrated...what good does it do to provide the information if people are going to continue to gloss over it and just guess at how it's done?

Oh well...break time is over. Back to welding my 1/4" copper parts...BTW, if anyone feels the earth shift off it's axis today it's probably just the gyroscopic influence from my electrical meter while I'm welding. I've got my syncrowave turned up to "11".
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Hey,

Dont stress too much, People will always say what they think rather than thinking what they say. Oh and lol, id say that copper would take some juice.


Mick
ZTFab
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    Thu Feb 14, 2013 11:41 am

Not really stressing over it, Mick.

I just find it difficult to have a discussion when the facts are ignored.

It's like everyone is raising their hand to be the kid in the classroom with the best answer but they're all failing to see the answer has already been written on the chalkboard.

...and yes, the copper parts put my Syncrowave 250 to the test but she always performs.

I can't show the whole part due to my non-disclosure contract but here is a small shot. This is 11ga (.125") to 1/4" copper. Welded with silicon-bronze..machine set to 310A on DCEN, pedal at full tilt.

The parts look really rough right after welding but are scotch-brited back to bare copper then a custom patina is applied.

Image
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Hey Paul,

Thanks for jumping in and posting some pics as well as good info. I will just go ahead and say that I am in awe of your work.
I know what it takes as far as prep, planning, sequencing, visualizing where stops and starts will be, executing, etc . to get a finished product to look like yours does. I know it aint easy.

I tip my hat.

thanks for posting and engaging the members here.


Jody Collier - weldingtipsandtricks.com
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Hey,

Its all good. I like to explain things in detail as well as the way I do it, but people will always do it their own way. Its just the ones who cant figure out why their way didnt work are the prob.

Mick
ZTFab
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admin wrote:Hey Paul,

Thanks for jumping in and posting some pics as well as good info. I will just go ahead and say that I am in awe of your work.
I know what it takes as far as prep, planning, sequencing, visualizing where stops and starts will be, executing, etc . to get a finished product to look like yours does. I know it aint easy.

I tip my hat.

thanks for posting and engaging the members here.


Jody Collier - weldingtipsandtricks.com

Thanks Jody.

The feeling is definitely mutual and I appreciate the time you spend making these videos so that we can all learn. I enjoy watching them.

- Paul Brinegar
ach
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    Tue Feb 19, 2013 10:38 am

Hey Jody, this is Sam from Australia, i have been receiving your weekly videos for a while and love them. Very informative, thank you. I would like to share my experience with trying to get that stack of dimes look with mig. Recently i had been practicing for my mig certification test, but was having trouble with my vertical up weld. The weld was a fillet on 12mm plate, with a 6mm root pass and a capping pass over it to a total of 10mm. The root pass was a christmas tree weave technique, but could not get good penetration. If i turned the heat up, i would get the penetration, but also got a very lumpy weld, turning the heat down got me a nice looking flat beaded weld (root pass), but very little penetration. It was suggested to me to manually pulse the root pass. Firstly i would need to increase the heat (amps and volts) to nearly double than that i was using with my weave pass. Next i experimented with pulse time. (the length of time squeezing the trigger), once i had found a happy medium with heat and time, i just proceeded laying a series of pulses (or tacks) overlapping each tack with the next by half. Even though i was travelling uphill, i got a flat stack of dimes looking weld, with extremely good penetration. (checked by doing a destructive fillet break test). My only concern with turning the amps and volts down, and weaving to achieve that look, is that the weld may suffer from lack of fusion, which is a common problem with mig. I'm sorry i don't have photos at this stage, but ill try to get some.

Cheers mate,
Sam.
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Hey Mate,

Welcome to the forum. Im from Aus too.

A trick they taught us at tafe for Vert up mig fillet was to turn the wire speed.down , untill the arc gets a little more 'hissy' than 'bacony' (sorry) This lets the volts do the work of burning in without the worry of lack of fusion from too much wire. You need to be a little more carefull of undercut, but thats a technique thing. I used a straight up and down and pause for the root and a straight side to side weave on the cap. Go alittle up in the middle of the cap to.compensate for the sag. Imagine a stack of frowny mouths. ((((((((((((( Like that but vertical of course.

Mick
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All right, this didn't work quite as intended... I hadn't considered that I'd be welding 5/16 stainless in place, so it's not a stack of dimes at the heat I was running, and the TIG was done on the bench, walking the cup... :lol:
GEDC0617.JPG
GEDC0617.JPG (172.08 KiB) Viewed 3389 times
I'll have to put up a side-by-side bench comparison of something with similar heats and NOT walk the cup... :lol:

Steve S
Metals406
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    Thu Feb 28, 2013 11:53 pm

I personally put larger pearls in a weld using technique, and less about wire speed or amps/volts.

I've done it on heavy work wayyyy up in the amperage with spray transfer. Sometimes it's just not possible to to a real heavy stacked look because everything is so hot.

The 'secret' is allowing the previous puddle to solidify enough that you can wash part of the new one over it. This also helps tie in the toes and makes everything fuse nicely.

I'm sure the stacked technique can be achieved using any letter of the alphabet, but I personally use a step and back then 'C' motion.

Something like:

C←•--C←•--C←•--C←•--C←•--

Where the bullet point denotes a pause in the root (slightly ahead of the puddle), with a rapid washing movement with the arc for the 'C', and quickly forward again deep into the root for the new deposition and cooling of the previous puddle.

In "shop talk": "It's a step and pause technique with a fancy C shaped back wash to plant a pearl stacked on the previous pearl."

Hope this helps some newbs and maybe some non-newbs.

Now for the REAL challenge! A stacked look using a Lincoln AC tombstone with 7018 (not 7018AC). :twisted:
ZTFab
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    Thu Feb 14, 2013 11:41 am

weldin mike 27 wrote:hey,

...and F#%^ like a P#$n Star..... :D No offense intended.

Mick
Well, I hope Jody doesn't try to make a video of that!! :lol:
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ZTFab wrote:
weldin mike 27 wrote:hey,

...and F#%^ like a P#$n Star..... :D No offense intended.

Mick
Well, I hope Jody doesn't try to make a video of that!! :lol:
Welding porn? That would be something! (Not sure what, but certainly "something".) The lead character in "Flashdance" was a welder, after all.

I forgot to take a picture of a weld today I was going to call "TIG like Stick". It was a back-weld on a mig-welded joint that didn't have complete penetration (damn fitter... oh, wait, that was me). Couldn't get the mig gun in there, so TIGged it in tight quarters in a real awkward position and bad visibility. I saw it out in the sun today, and it looked for all the world like 7018. Even had little silicon islands drawn from the -s6 on the front side, and borderline undercut on the high side of the toes. :lol:

Steve S
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Hey,

I removed my post about doing you know what. It belonged in a bar not here. Sorry.

Mick
BDoubleU

GREAT discussion everyone! All the posts, pics and ideas are awesome ... and we were fortunate enough to have ZT provide input on his technique for producing welds with that appearance.

This thread was becoming very long ... so we have closed it from further posts. Remember, there are many creative techniques that will "get the job done." The trick is, to know them all :)

Thanks to everyone who posted on this thread!!!
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