Ideas & suggestions for videos
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I'm going to assume a tie-in is adding a branch to a larger pipe, though I don't speak "Aussie". I have no idea what is meant by "creek crossings", either.

Ah, two peoples separated by a common language... :lol:

Steve S
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Hey,

Tie is, in the quote I had are putting a branch or section into and older, existing pipe line system. Creek crossings, are where the pipe line crosses a water course of some description, either way both spots where the larger set ups such as an expensive automated welder wouldn't be taken , due to mud and mess and close quarters.
Thats the way I interpreted it though.

However, If you to go down and talk to a local pipe contractor, Im sure they would give you a more detailed and factual explanation of these rods in Aus.

http://www.yellowpages.com.au/search/li ... ocationId=


Mick
Alexa
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What are tie ins creek crossings?

=====

Chadwarden.

On the pipeline, the welders are often divided into four groups with separate functions.

MAINLINE. There are the mainline teams that are organized where the root pass is put in by two or more welders working simultaneously. The hot pass crew is immediately behind them. The first fill pass crew behind them. Etc. etc.. Needless to say, that root pass crew sets the pace ... and thus the buck$.

TIE-IN. There are the tie-in crews that are used to make the tie-in welds. The tie-in welds will be: the weld that connects a long stretches of welded pipes to other stretches of welded pipes; and the two welds that connect stretches of pipe to both sides of the crossings (examples: creek, river, tunnels, roads, railways, etc.) and to the stations (examples: valves, pumping stations, etc.).

PIPING. There are the piping teams that perform the pumping stations welds.

REPAIR. There are the repair welding crews. Often only one repair is allowed on a weld. If that repair is not acceptable, then the weld will be completely cut out. Thus, it is very important to have a specialist in repair welding. If you put a good welder to do repairs, perhaps 1 out 20 repairs will fail and the resultant cut out. If you put a specialist repair welder, perhaps only 1 out 100 repairs will not pass. These repairers, on potentially difficult repairs, will often request to read the radiographs and trace their own transparency of the weld defect.

Tanks.
Alexa
chadwarden
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rake wrote:I've done miles of low hydrogen open root. Mostly 8018 and 11018 but 7018 also works about the same.
Vertical is always up. Run it just hot enough that it doesn't stick. Hold the toes and fly across the middle.
Once the root is in turn up 5 to 10 amps and run a "hot" pass. You should be able to burn almost all the way
into the root without it falling out the back.
When you did those root passes with 7018s, did you bury that rod in like you would with 6010s or just kept a tight arc and let it burn through on its own?
Alexa
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7018 is a low hydrogen rod that requires that you hold a short arc.
For a root pass, you will have to work the puddle.
There should be able to find some videos.

Alexa
chadwarden
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When you say "work the puddle", you mean I got to stay right on top of that puddle and move it around instead of just jamming it in when doing the root pass, right? Can I at least be slight scraping against the plate when doing the root run?
Alexa
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Chadwarden.

Picture in your mind the keyhole you make with a cellulose rod, for example a 6010.
A 7018 low hydrogen rod will require a slightly larger *** keyhole.
It has less penetration power than a cellulose rod.
It solidifies slower than the cellulose rod.
Working the puddle will mean ensuring that you melt both sides of the joint, resulting in a keyhole.
However, you will not be able to hold a long arc like with the cellulose rod, you will need to keep it short.
You will have some up and down U motions, but just enough keep the puddle from falling out.

Technical schools have people perform open root passes with 7018 and 6013, not because that procedure will be used in industry, but because it is a method to get the student welder to learn the limits of those rods. If you learn to control a keyhole with those rods, you will have understood better your puddle control and adjust your amperage.

Enjoy welding.
Alexa

*** perhaps others will note differently
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Alexa, I never SEE the keyhole on a 6010 root, and my arc is very short. I know when it's right by the sound, not the appearance. This is true for up- or down-hand.

Steve S
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Otto Nobedder.

For downland (vertical down progression) with 6010, if dragging the rod (with rod pushed constantly in), I do not note a keyhole.

For uphill with 6010, I work the puddle and see the gap widening (keyhole)and use a slight up and down motion, while adjusting the arc length as needed.

For some overhead with 6010, at times I work the puddle (keyhole), while at other times keeping the rod pushed in constantly and judge penetration by keeping the coating burning off at a point.

Tanks.
Alexa
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