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Re: Underpowered 120 volt stick/lift tig machine.

Posted: Wed Apr 27, 2016 10:18 pm
by Otto Nobedder
I bet that came UPS, an acronym for Universal Package Smashers.

I will be stunned if they honor a claim, as they will try to tell you Everlast did not adequately package the product.

Steve S

Re: Underpowered 120 volt stick/lift tig machine.

Posted: Thu Apr 28, 2016 5:21 am
by sedanman
I bought if off Home Depot .com. there is a written 30 day no questions asked return policy. Under the terms of the policy, there doesn't have to be anything wrong with it for me to return it. I called them the moment l opened the box. I'm even using the broken one until the replacement arrives, then I'll return the broken one to the store. I don't have to ship the broken one.

Re: Underpowered 120 volt stick/lift tig machine.

Posted: Sat Apr 30, 2016 1:21 pm
by sedanman
I managed this today with the Thermal Arc 95s. Running off a 20 amp breaker, set at 95 amps. 1/16 2% lanthinated, #6 cup, 15 cfm, lay wire. 1/8 cold rolled. I have a lot to work on, but l am open to criticism.

Re: Underpowered 120 volt stick/lift tig machine.

Posted: Sun May 01, 2016 2:47 am
by Diesel
Needs more wire fed in and a little consistency work. But now too bad.

Re: Underpowered 120 volt stick/lift tig machine.

Posted: Sun May 01, 2016 8:38 am
by Poland308
Even on thin stuff down to about 1/8 material if your doing a lap joint or even a fillet or open butt don't be afraid to do it in 2 passes. No it's not the fastest way but until you get some more time and practice it will make your finished product smoother. It won't sacrifice strength and it will give you confidence.

Edit. Especially with a low amp machine. I've run that little thermal arc 95 and had to use 3/32 6010 and 3/32 7018. And tig I stuck with filler wire 3/32 or smaller.

Re: Underpowered 120 volt stick/lift tig machine.

Posted: Sun May 01, 2016 9:04 am
by MinnesotaDave
sedanman wrote:I managed this today with the Thermal Arc 95s. Running off a 20 amp breaker, set at 95 amps. 1/16 2% lanthinated, #6 cup, 15 cfm, lay wire. 1/8 cold rolled. I have a lot to work on, but l am open to criticism.
You don't have enough power to leave the rod in the puddle - concentrate on getting an equal leg fillet in the root.

More arc needs to be directed at the lower plate than at the edge (the edge takes less heat to melt).

Watch the puddle wet out, feed a little rod, move forward, watch it wet out, feed rod, repeat.

I would be using 150 amps and motoring out on that thickness - but since you're using less, patience is the key.

After a really nice tight root pass - the second one on a now warmed up plate will finish the job :)

Re: Underpowered 120 volt stick/lift tig machine.

Posted: Sun May 01, 2016 10:29 am
by sedanman
Thank you. I will keep trying. I just got an Everlast 185dv because this little 95 amp machine was so frustrating but I'm not giving up on mastering this little machine.

Re: Underpowered 120 volt stick/lift tig machine.

Posted: Sun Oct 16, 2016 11:25 pm
by ryanjames170
that realy sucks on the welder coming like that. i guess i got lucky with my AHP 160..

i will have to add one thing though.. if one has a good welder AHP, everlast miller ect ect.. i think they tend to be able to do more with that 15 amps then the smaller toasters.. im not sure if its due to the fact that the toasters are less efficiant ie drawing more alot more power to get out that 80 amps vs 80 amps on something ment to do 160.. or if they just realy cant put out that 80 amps..

take for instance my HFT 80 amp welder has a hard time keeping 3/32 rods lit (evan turned all the way up), honestly i think about the only one that is for sure to light and stay lite is 6013.. but if i hook my AHP 160ST up to the same circut i can run 6011, 7018 6013 all day long as long as i do my part..
my thinking on the whole matter is effciancy of the welder to get out said amperage and i kinda feel that the toasters dont realy put out what they say either..