I took this picture of the serial # but still haven't been able to figure out which model year.
It actually took me a long time to find that sucker, it was hidden. I have the fuse located on the left side of the faceplate.
So with the Hot Start, it should be positioned almost exactly on the same relative number as the main amperage control, just a little higher for a little Hot Start? I was trying to set it and the start was changing so I know it works, but I still haven't gotten it set just right. I was just trying to set it for some 1/8" crap 6010's and some good Lincoln 3/32" 7018 MR's which have been heavily humidified. I plan to get a pizza oven in the near future. I saw a couple of them, but they were too small for 14" electrodes. I almost bought a Betty Crocker oven for kids. The door doesn't open, you just slide the pie in one side and push it out the other side, but I was too embarrassed because they know I don't have kids.
I have the rods currently stored in the attic, which is 1000 degrees F in S. Louisiana in the summertime.
I also had some electrical problems today, sparking and arcing off the pump switch with the wires just hanging everywhere, without any bracket. The welder was supposedly in excellent condition, but it wasn't exactly like that, honestly. You know how that goes. I've been trying to fix a few issues and I hope I didn't blow any fuses. The welder wasn't even running, but that 110 plug on the back sure was still live. I have removed all the TIG equipment for now. I also think that whatever is in the cooling tank is a powerful gnat attractant. The previous owner told me he didn't know what kind of liquid was in there, when I asked about TIG coolant. He didn't care about this 900lbs of awesome. He was a sheetmetal worker and I think he just used it for small projects on the weekends. I wish he had kept the welding leads from being all gouged, melted and cut. I think I have them pretty safe, now. I cut out the worst pieces and used a ton of electrical tape. Some of the connecters had welded together and had to be cut off and could not be reused. The insulation was literally falling apart in my hands.
My TIG torch looks pretty good, but the cover was totally melted and could not even be zipped. I took it all apart and the leads and water lines inside seem to be in good shape. I will have to find another cover. I have about 6 pure tungsten 3/32" electrodes and a #7 cup and the torch is a water cooled Radnor 18. I want to try aluminum TIG because that's what Jody recommended for beginners. I don't have an Argon tank yet, so I can't pursue that. I don't even know what a good price would be on a used tank with some gas still left in it? I found one, but don't know what I should offer. Someone tried to sell me a Nitrogen tank for $50 and someone else a C25. I knew I couldn't use those. I learned that you could hook Nitrogen up to your plasma cutter (if you have one) and cut aluminum cleanly without contaminating it. I thought that was cool.
MinnesotaDave wrote:The start amperage (smaller knob) sets the current for starting the arc.
Turn it higher than your welding current and it's hot start.
Turn it lower than your welding current and you've got a soft start.
It generally lasts about 2/3 of a second. (The manuals say 40 cycles)