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Hello from Delaware, OH

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Re: Hello from Delaware, OH

Postby chrisknight » Wed Jul 19, 2017 5:15 pm

Artie F. Emm wrote:The rule of thumb for arc length is "the diameter of your electrode".

The Miller Handbook is in PDF format, compressed into a zip file. Send me a PM with your email address and i'll send it.

I was afraid you were going to write that. Hahaha.. I had read that, it just doesn't seem possible without dipping it. I'll send the PM now. Thank you! I did realize that I was trying to look straight down and thus the torch was in the way. So, I tilted the torch way over, sending the ark way down the metal. I tried another bead last night with the torch more upright and my head to the side that that surprisingly went a ton better!
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Re: Hello from Delaware, OH

Postby cj737 » Tue Jul 25, 2017 8:18 am

You would do well to grab some 3/32" filler, or even some 1/16" filler to practice with. Dipping 1/8" filler makes a large deposit and it may not be so much that you're dipping your tungsten as the puddle is growing to it.

Earlier you posted that you were running 95 amps on 1/8" scrap, thats too low. Run closer to 120 amps, or run your machine in "Lift Arc" mode (forget the pedal) and just focus on the puddle. The distance of the tungsten sticking out past the cup matters. The cup size effects your success, and the angle of the torch (as you're discovering) effects the puddle and your sight lines.

Try to position your eyes in front of the torch, welding towards yourself so you can see the tungsten and the leading edge of the puddle. A #7 or #8 cup with a gas lens would be my go-to cup for steel TIG. Hold the torch like a pencil, gently but with control, and simply slide your forearm (supported on the bench) along the line. This helps you move the big muscles and not manipulate the small muscles. The small muscles (dexterity) are used to make slight adjustments in the cup angle, distance, or position as you travel.

When you add filler, pause your cup/torch from moving. Put the filler directly into the puddle leading edge, watch it melt off, then withdraw the filler. Then move your torch. This "spreads" the bead forward. If you're using 3/32 filler, move 3/32 with the torch. There's a relationship there to control the filler and weld bead size.

After about 500# of filler wire, you should be a real pro! :D Okay, maybe not 500#, but it does take a while to get your rhythm down. Eliminating the pedal at the beginning of learning helps you to focus on technique, and not welding. Once you get comfy with adding and travel, put the pedal back in play, set your maximum amps, but use the pedal to control the weld puddle by tapering off, mashing the pedal, tapering, mashing, until you get the instincts to push your foot when you see the puddle doing something you like/dislike.

A pedal is a great asset for TIG, but honestly, many production TIG welders don't use one. It requires the pedal be dragged around the shop floor, balancing like a stork, and the cables are always tangling. I know many stainless TIG pipe welders who run Lift Arc because they light up and go, having preset their amps. Its faster, simple, and accurate. And it makes learning a lot easier!
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