Well don’t those look nice! To help with your restarts, focus your arc on the last bead of the weld, once it gets fluid, dip, then take off with your sequence. Add more filler at the end of the weld and taper off your heat to avoid the burn back.
Looking really good!
Welcome to the community! Tell us about yourself, your welding interests, skills, specialties, equipment, etc.
Really appreciate your guidance through this learning experience! Makes sense on the termination and will docj737 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 12, 2024 8:34 pm Well don’t those look nice! To help with your restarts, focus your arc on the last bead of the weld, once it gets fluid, dip, then take off with your sequence. Add more filler at the end of the weld and taper off your heat to avoid the burn back.
Looking really good!
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_e_biggrin.gif)
Forced myself to feed filler since the knuckles are getting a bit toasty with the aluminum. This is probably the longest bead I’ve ran thus far while continuously feeding filler material. Not the greatest looking, but I’m pretty happy because I can roll with it without getting distracted. Almost like learning how to drive a manual again.
I know it’s ugly as sin but I’ll keep practicing.
I know it’s ugly as sin but I’ll keep practicing.
- Attachments
-
- 1/16” aluminum coupons, 1/16” lanthanated tungsten, 1/16” 4043 filler. 80 amps on the pedal, 120 hz, ~35% balance.
- IMG_9533.jpeg (2.46 MiB) Viewed 2444 times
I was watching The Fabrication Series on YouTube and wanted to try weaving.
- Attachments
-
- 1/8 steel at 110 amps, 308L 1/16 rod, #10 cup
- IMG_9805.jpeg (3.43 MiB) Viewed 2070 times
-
- 1/8 steel at 110 amps, 308L 1/16 rod, #10 cup
- IMG_9806.jpeg (2.9 MiB) Viewed 2070 times
With 1/16 filler on 1/8 material, I’d be closer to 95 amps to avoid the base material absorbing so much heat. That’s why your beads are turning blue/purple after a bit. Also, with only a #10 cup, make sure you’re using about 20cfh or gas.
Your practice looks really good. Nice and even stepping. Bump up to 3/32 and you might have an easier go of it.
Your practice looks really good. Nice and even stepping. Bump up to 3/32 and you might have an easier go of it.
Thanks CJ! I'll hit the steel again soon with your suggestionscj737 wrote: ↑Sun Mar 24, 2024 11:56 pm With 1/16 filler on 1/8 material, I’d be closer to 95 amps to avoid the base material absorbing so much heat. That’s why your beads are turning blue/purple after a bit. Also, with only a #10 cup, make sure you’re using about 20cfh or gas.
Your practice looks really good. Nice and even stepping. Bump up to 3/32 and you might have an easier go of it.
![Geek :geek:](./images/smilies/icon_e_geek.gif)
@cj737
I was bored and without better knowledge decided to weave 16ga stainless. This was done with a #10 cup, 1/16 lanthanated, .035 308L @ 33 amps and 20 CFH.
Definitely a little slow there on the first half but once I got comfortable I sped it up a bit.
Ran a few beads and did a weaved butt joint out of curiosity. Most likely not ideal for the situation but it was fun and taught me a lot of pedal control, dabbing, aim and travel speed.
I was bored and without better knowledge decided to weave 16ga stainless. This was done with a #10 cup, 1/16 lanthanated, .035 308L @ 33 amps and 20 CFH.
Definitely a little slow there on the first half but once I got comfortable I sped it up a bit.
Ran a few beads and did a weaved butt joint out of curiosity. Most likely not ideal for the situation but it was fun and taught me a lot of pedal control, dabbing, aim and travel speed.
- Attachments
-
- IMG_9826.jpeg (1.91 MiB) Viewed 1935 times
-
- IMG_9828.jpeg (2.05 MiB) Viewed 1935 times
33 amps might be a little low for 16ga. When the amps are too low, you have to wait in the stainless to melt, that causes a lot of heat input. As odd as it sounds, a touch more heat gets your puddle faster so you can weld without introducing as much heat overall. Of course, the higher the amps, the faster the travel speed….
A delicate little orchestra of just enough, a little more, and hurry but don’t wait!
A delicate little orchestra of just enough, a little more, and hurry but don’t wait!
- IMG_9839.jpeg (1.96 MiB) Viewed 1847 times
You're right. I've just upped it to 38 amps and I'm definitely not moving fast enough on this. It came out with all sort of colors so I know I'm cooking it. Definitely something for me to work on. Be back in a few dayscj737 wrote: ↑Tue Mar 26, 2024 7:57 am 33 amps might be a little low for 16ga. When the amps are too low, you have to wait in the stainless to melt, that causes a lot of heat input. As odd as it sounds, a touch more heat gets your puddle faster so you can weld without introducing as much heat overall. Of course, the higher the amps, the faster the travel speed….
A delicate little orchestra of just enough, a little more, and hurry but don’t wait!
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_e_biggrin.gif)
Edit: My curiosity got the better of me. Tried it again at 33 amps and ran through it like Forest Gump. 33 amps left, 38 amps right.
- IMG_9843.jpeg (2.14 MiB) Viewed 1819 times
I’m back with more entertainment for you guys.
I chopped up the rest of the stainless tube to practice going around a tube with a curve to hone my stops and re-starts. Definitely a humbling experience.
Then I went back to the 1/16 aluminum. I’m going to attempt 1/16 tubing as soon as I get the saw blade in.
I started on a 1/8 aluminum cube for an armrest.
I chopped up the rest of the stainless tube to practice going around a tube with a curve to hone my stops and re-starts. Definitely a humbling experience.
- IMG_0139.jpeg (2.28 MiB) Viewed 912 times
- IMG_0148.jpeg (1.89 MiB) Viewed 912 times
- IMG_0161.jpeg (2.27 MiB) Viewed 912 times
Aluminum looks really good.
![🤣](//twemoji.maxcdn.com/2/svg/1f923.svg)
Looking at the stainless welds, your bead profile indicates too much filler and too slow of travel. You’ve got lots of heat (hence the colors) but the bead is not getting wetted in. So…
Bump your amps and move a bit faster OR reduce the filler wire size and slightly bump the amps. Travel speed might be fine then. Stainless butt welds can be done without filler if the fit-up is good. If so, just run without to get your technique down. Add a dab if there’s a big gap.
I also like to use pulse when stainless autogenous welding. 50%/25%/1.2pps is my preferred settings. Amps are up to you. Just let them be enough to fuse the joint.
I’m struggling to remember a time I encountered a round tube that didnt have a curve?
Looking at the stainless welds, your bead profile indicates too much filler and too slow of travel. You’ve got lots of heat (hence the colors) but the bead is not getting wetted in. So…
Bump your amps and move a bit faster OR reduce the filler wire size and slightly bump the amps. Travel speed might be fine then. Stainless butt welds can be done without filler if the fit-up is good. If so, just run without to get your technique down. Add a dab if there’s a big gap.
I also like to use pulse when stainless autogenous welding. 50%/25%/1.2pps is my preferred settings. Amps are up to you. Just let them be enough to fuse the joint.
I was trying to convey welding around a tube with a weird bend with the thin pie cuts. Bad wordings. It tripped me up and all concentration went out the window. I think that’s where I slowed down and all the rhythm of dabbing went bad.cj737 wrote: ↑Thu Apr 18, 2024 9:40 pm Aluminum looks really good.
I’m struggling to remember a time I encountered a round tube that didnt have a curve?
Looking at the stainless welds, your bead profile indicates too much filler and too slow of travel. You’ve got lots of heat (hence the colors) but the bead is not getting wetted in. So…
Bump your amps and move a bit faster OR reduce the filler wire size and slightly bump the amps. Travel speed might be fine then. Stainless butt welds can be done without filler if the fit-up is good. If so, just run without to get your technique down. Add a dab if there’s a big gap.
I also like to use pulse when stainless autogenous welding. 50%/25%/1.2pps is my preferred settings. Amps are up to you. Just let them be enough to fuse the joint.
Edit: I appreciate the suggestions. I will try pulse next time. I was in the mindset of getting as good as I can with the filler before doing autogenous on a tube. At least that’s what I’ve read.
Hello gentlemen. I am back with more carnage.
I finally took a shot at going around a 2.5” 16 ga aluminum tube. No curves this time
I think I’m adding too much filler and too cold.
Material
. 3/32 lanthanated
. 1/16 5053 filler
. 70 amps on the pedal
. 15 CFH post flow
. #5 Furick cup with a gas lense
Thank you in advance for any suggestions ![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_e_biggrin.gif)
I finally took a shot at going around a 2.5” 16 ga aluminum tube. No curves this time
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_e_biggrin.gif)
I think I’m adding too much filler and too cold.
Material
. 3/32 lanthanated
. 1/16 5053 filler
. 70 amps on the pedal
. 15 CFH post flow
. #5 Furick cup with a gas lense
- IMG_0225.jpeg (2.15 MiB) Viewed 755 times
- IMG_0226.jpeg (3.48 MiB) Viewed 755 times
- IMG_0227.jpeg (3.07 MiB) Viewed 755 times
- IMG_0230.jpeg (2.21 MiB) Viewed 755 times
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_e_biggrin.gif)
It’s important (when possible) to get a look at the backside. The amount of penetration will tell you volumes about heat, filler and travel speed.
Those welds do look over-filled. Using a bit less of the filler per dab might be all you need to do.
Those welds do look over-filled. Using a bit less of the filler per dab might be all you need to do.
Hi Cj737. Thank you for your feedback.
I went back and weld another and I definitely need
to work on the dabbing part. I think I was anxious about putting a hole through it so I traveled as if I was working with stainless. Shoving the filler in there didn't help either.
I'll practice some more and will come back with pics
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_e_biggrin.gif)
Return to “Member Introductions”
Jump to
- Introductions & How to Use the Forum
- ↳ Welcome!
- ↳ Member Introductions
- ↳ How to Use the Forum
- ↳ Moderator Applications
- Welding Discussion
- ↳ Metal Cutting
- ↳ Tig Welding - Tig Welding Aluminum - Tig Welding Techniques - Aluminum Tig Welding
- ↳ Mig and Flux Core - gas metal arc welding & flux cored arc welding
- ↳ Stick Welding/Arc Welding - Shielded Metal Arc Welding
- ↳ Welding Forum General Shop Talk
- ↳ Welding Certification - Stick/Arc Welding, Tig Welding, Mig Welding Certification tests - Welding Tests of all kinds
- ↳ Welding Projects - Welding project Ideas - Welding project plans
- ↳ Product Reviews
- ↳ Fuel Gas Heating
- Welding Tips & Tricks
- ↳ Video Discussion
- ↳ Wish List
- Announcements & Feedback
- ↳ Forum News
- ↳ Suggestions, Feedback and Support
- Welding Marketplace
- ↳ Welding Jobs - Industrial Welding Jobs - Pipe Welding Jobs - Tig Welding Jobs
- ↳ Classifieds - Buy, Sell, Trade Used Welding Equipment
- Welding Resources
- ↳ Tradeshows, Seminars and Events
- ↳ The Welding Library
- ↳ Education Opportunities