[cj737]

Well don’t those look nice! To help with your restarts, focus your arc on the last bead of the weld, once it gets fluid, dip, then take off with your sequence. Add more filler at the end of the weld and taper off your heat to avoid the burn back.

Looking really good!

[Al_Bundy]

Well don’t those look nice! To help with your restarts, focus your arc on the last bead of the weld, once it gets fluid, dip, then take off with your sequence. Add more filler at the end of the weld and taper off your heat to avoid the burn back.

Looking really good!

Really appreciate your guidance through this learning experience! Makes sense on the termination and will do

[Al_Bundy]

Forced myself to feed filler since the knuckles are getting a bit toasty with the aluminum. This is probably the longest bead I’ve ran thus far while continuously feeding filler material. Not the greatest looking, but I’m pretty happy because I can roll with it without getting distracted. Almost like learning how to drive a manual again.

I know it’s ugly as sin but I’ll keep practicing.

[Al_Bundy]

I was watching The Fabrication Series on YouTube and wanted to try weaving.

[cj737]

With 1/16 filler on 1/8 material, I’d be closer to 95 amps to avoid the base material absorbing so much heat. That’s why your beads are turning blue/purple after a bit. Also, with only a #10 cup, make sure you’re using about 20cfh or gas.

Your practice looks really good. Nice and even stepping. Bump up to 3/32 and you might have an easier go of it.

[Al_Bundy]

With 1/16 filler on 1/8 material, I’d be closer to 95 amps to avoid the base material absorbing so much heat. That’s why your beads are turning blue/purple after a bit. Also, with only a #10 cup, make sure you’re using about 20cfh or gas.

Your practice looks really good. Nice and even stepping. Bump up to 3/32 and you might have an easier go of it.

Thanks CJ! I'll hit the steel again soon with your suggestions

[Al_Bundy]

@cj737

I was bored and without better knowledge decided to weave 16ga stainless. This was done with a #10 cup, 1/16 lanthanated, .035 308L @ 33 amps and 20 CFH.

Definitely a little slow there on the first half but once I got comfortable I sped it up a bit.

Ran a few beads and did a weaved butt joint out of curiosity. Most likely not ideal for the situation but it was fun and taught me a lot of pedal control, dabbing, aim and travel speed.

[cj737]

33 amps might be a little low for 16ga. When the amps are too low, you have to wait in the stainless to melt, that causes a lot of heat input. As odd as it sounds, a touch more heat gets your puddle faster so you can weld without introducing as much heat overall. Of course, the higher the amps, the faster the travel speed….

A delicate little orchestra of just enough, a little more, and hurry but don’t wait!

[Al_Bundy]

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33 amps might be a little low for 16ga. When the amps are too low, you have to wait in the stainless to melt, that causes a lot of heat input. As odd as it sounds, a touch more heat gets your puddle faster so you can weld without introducing as much heat overall. Of course, the higher the amps, the faster the travel speed….

A delicate little orchestra of just enough, a little more, and hurry but don’t wait!

You're right. I've just upped it to 38 amps and I'm definitely not moving fast enough on this. It came out with all sort of colors so I know I'm cooking it. Definitely something for me to work on. Be back in a few days

Edit: My curiosity got the better of me. Tried it again at 33 amps and ran through it like Forest Gump. 33 amps left, 38 amps right.

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[cj737]

The only glaring thing is the restart. You need to back up to the prior last bead, start there and get it wet, then add filler there and move forward.

[Al_Bundy]

The only glaring thing is the restart. You need to back up to the prior last bead, start there and get it wet, then add filler there and move forward.

Yeah, I agree. It’s ugly as heck. I for sure will be focusing on that piece in the next few days.

Cheers!

[Al_Bundy]

I’m back with more entertainment for you guys.

I chopped up the rest of the stainless tube to practice going around a tube with a curve to hone my stops and re-starts. Definitely a humbling experience.

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Then I went back to the 1/16 aluminum. I’m going to attempt 1/16 tubing as soon as I get the saw blade in.

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I started on a 1/8 aluminum cube for an armrest.

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[cj737]

Aluminum looks really good.

I chopped up the rest of the stainless tube to practice going around a tube with a curve to hone my stops and re-starts.

I’m struggling to remember a time I encountered a round tube that didnt have a curve?

Looking at the stainless welds, your bead profile indicates too much filler and too slow of travel. You’ve got lots of heat (hence the colors) but the bead is not getting wetted in. So…

Bump your amps and move a bit faster OR reduce the filler wire size and slightly bump the amps. Travel speed might be fine then. Stainless butt welds can be done without filler if the fit-up is good. If so, just run without to get your technique down. Add a dab if there’s a big gap.

I also like to use pulse when stainless autogenous welding. 50%/25%/1.2pps is my preferred settings. Amps are up to you. Just let them be enough to fuse the joint.

[Al_Bundy]

Aluminum looks really good.

I chopped up the rest of the stainless tube to practice going around a tube with a curve to hone my stops and re-starts.

I’m struggling to remember a time I encountered a round tube that didnt have a curve?

Looking at the stainless welds, your bead profile indicates too much filler and too slow of travel. You’ve got lots of heat (hence the colors) but the bead is not getting wetted in. So…

Bump your amps and move a bit faster OR reduce the filler wire size and slightly bump the amps. Travel speed might be fine then. Stainless butt welds can be done without filler if the fit-up is good. If so, just run without to get your technique down. Add a dab if there’s a big gap.

I also like to use pulse when stainless autogenous welding. 50%/25%/1.2pps is my preferred settings. Amps are up to you. Just let them be enough to fuse the joint.

I was trying to convey welding around a tube with a weird bend with the thin pie cuts. Bad wordings. It tripped me up and all concentration went out the window. I think that’s where I slowed down and all the rhythm of dabbing went bad.

Edit: I appreciate the suggestions. I will try pulse next time. I was in the mindset of getting as good as I can with the filler before doing autogenous on a tube. At least that’s what I’ve read.

[cj737]

I knew what you meant, but the opportunity to tease I couldn’t let pass by…

[Al_Bundy]

I knew what you meant, but the opportunity to tease I couldn’t let pass by…

I really look forward to trying pulse now. I’ve been on YouTube since your reply and saw how it helps with the heat control and rhythm.

[Al_Bundy]

Hello gentlemen. I am back with more carnage.

I finally took a shot at going around a 2.5” 16 ga aluminum tube. No curves this time

I think I’m adding too much filler and too cold.

Material
. 3/32 lanthanated
. 1/16 5053 filler
. 70 amps on the pedal
. 15 CFH post flow
. #5 Furick cup with a gas lense

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Thank you in advance for any suggestions

[cj737]

It’s important (when possible) to get a look at the backside. The amount of penetration will tell you volumes about heat, filler and travel speed.

Those welds do look over-filled. Using a bit less of the filler per dab might be all you need to do.

[Al_Bundy]

It’s important (when possible) to get a look at the backside. The amount of penetration will tell you volumes about heat, filler and travel speed.

Those welds do look over-filled. Using a bit less of the filler per dab might be all you need to do.

Hi Cj737. Thank you for your feedback.

I went back and weld another and I definitely need
to work on the dabbing part. I think I was anxious about putting a hole through it so I traveled as if I was working with stainless. Shoving the filler in there didn't help either.

I'll practice some more and will come back with pics