Metal cutting - oxyfuel cutting, plasma cutting, machining, grinding, and other preparatory work.
dunkster
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entity-unknown wrote: I also have about a 20 degree inclined 20 ft driveway and...
20 degrees? I'd definitely have a lift lined up, unless you have a small army on hand.
entity-unknown wrote:The sidewalk portion is a 6 degree incline and the drive way is about 4.20.
Now 4.2 degrees, that's only about a 7 inch rise in 8 feet. Totally do-able with a pallet jack and a buddy.


As far as the base goes like others have said, stay away from wood. And I'd also wait until delivery before making a base, unless o/c the idea of fabbing up another doesn't scare you. I'll be making something similar to these after mine (knock on wood :lol: ) arrives:
IMG_3326 base.jpg
IMG_3326 base.jpg (111.22 KiB) Viewed 2982 times
Millmobilebase.jpg
Millmobilebase.jpg (13.54 KiB) Viewed 2982 times
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it looked like 20 degrees from the street but I used an igage angle measure and based the zero degree from the driveway and checked it about every 3 feet so yeah it looks like 4.2 all the way up. That does give me a bit more confidence to run this up with my friend since a rigger seemed a bit more than necessary for 20 ft.....

So the two machines you two posted look about the same height from the floor up to the bed. Being 6'1" I'm really gonna want a stand right?

That looks like a good idea on the stand with the casters. Perhaps we'll see if my welding can hold 1 ton :D

I was just gonna buy a mini mill but realized quick it wouldn't hold up and I'd be severely limited. Plus the girl came in and saw what I was looking at and said I deserve to get whatever I want. I'm about to make over 70k profit on selling my house and like any man should, I'm buying a really expensive tool she just helped justify spending more ;)
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dunkster
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I'm 6'3" and from what I remember a full size BP sitting on the floor (doing mostly low profile, in the vise work) was fine for me, however that might be a different story today now that I'm older and blinder. The 1st shot is of a 2/3 - 3/4 size machine similar to what I'll be getting and I anticipate the need to lift it in the neighborhood of 5 to 8 inches. Going to give it a couple runs after it gets here while still on the pallet before committing to fabbing a base for it. It's really all relative to whatever kind of work you'll mostly be doing. I tend to base height requirements on where my eyes will be focusing, you know where you'd want a higher machine for doing say plate work that's toe clamped directly to the table vs. working on something like an engine block or the like.

Sounds like a real keeper you've got there!

Any holding up a ton is nothing, so long as the design supports it.
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I've seen plenty of video of the BP and it does look like that was designed to stand at all day long like a good classic 1940s worker should be doin. These new ones all look like they'd really benefit from stands :\

I do plan on only really doing low, flat work but I said I'd only really be doing Al with TIG and I've got my fair share of steel and SS now with a Ti fix ready to go. I'm getting this for the potential and to remove as many limitations without taking up a 10'x10' space, weighing over 1 ton, and not costing 15 grand just for the machine. So the imagination and laziness should be my only limitations :)

Looking at casters, it looks like a 900 lbs load rating is about the best minimum and that looks to be about 7" mount height with 6" wheels. Looks like I have my base height to consider for a stand now. I know those crappy metal tab brakes are horrible so after a bunch of searching I found these look like the best options for swivel casters and brakes which it shouldn't be hard to find the ridgid or non-braking matching set for these. Figured I'd post in case it helps you, anyone else, or if my browser history dies ;)

https://www.amazon.com/RWM-Casters-Uret ... 900&sr=8-3
https://www.amazon.com/RWM-Casters-Inst ... 900&sr=8-9
https://www.amazon.com/RWM-Casters-Cast ... JA2GPWKVRA
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electrode
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I looked at my manual for my 2300 lb mill and for securing to the concrete they recommend using a 5/16" minimum sized anchor. :shock: So a 3/8" anchor would more than likely work but I would go with 1/2" if I were to anchor mine. But it hasn't moved in years and I don't move it when cleaning the shop. I also have a 2400 Sq ft shop so your mileage may vary. :D
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Thanks for that point about the anchor size :) Yeah I def don't have a shop that large; one day maybe but I'm pleased with what I have :)

Have you been doing fine precision work or just using the mill for what a mill is good for? I'm guessing if you had a concern or noticed problems you would have bolted it down by now...
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electrode
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entity-unknown wrote:Thanks for that point about the anchor size :) Yeah I def don't have a shop that large; one day maybe but I'm pleased with what I have :)

Have you been doing fine precision work or just using the mill for what a mill is good for? I'm guessing if you had a concern or noticed problems you would have bolted it down by now...
Precision work is not a problem with the mill even not bolted down. It's level and weighs over a ton so it doesn't matter. Proper use of the mill is what matters. Leave the quill up and use the quill lock, lock the table and knee or whatever axis is not going to be traveling. Use good tooling and set the speeds and feeds properly etc. Make sure you tram the head so it is square with the table and same goes for the vise on the table. Learn about direction of travel and what difference it makes between conventional and climb milling. Lots to learn but lots of fun too. Tooling will cost as much as the mill....eventually. :lol:
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I don't know if you're looking for a review on the quality of their stuff but for what it's worth my boss has the funds to buy whatever he wants for his machine shop and he bought a Grizzly mill and lathe. They're very nice and I'm assuming he likes them pretty good. I'd feel good about getting their stuff. I've been looking at one of their smaller bandsaws myself.
Jim FLinchbaugh
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There is NO good reason to anchor a machine tool of this order to the floor,
unless you live in an earthquake zone.
Check on renting a fork- lift even a small one will lift 2000 pounds easy.
You may also be able to rent what are called "machine skates" basically 4 wheeled
caster like things that you can sit under each corner and use a pinch bar to move the machine.
Last mill I moved we used old engine push rods as rollers and you could move the thing VERY easy.
IF you want feet under it something like this is good
Image
They can be expensive, but most folks I know use hockey pucks and make their own
Jim FLinchbaugh
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that looks to be very nice machine, and I am jealous, as a knee mill is the thing most lacking in my shop.
You will find 1000's of uses for it and I really like that it has the horizontal arbor drive as well.
Grizzly tools seem decent for the most part. I would expect you will spend several days cleaning, lubing, adjusting
and fine tuning as you should with any new machine.
Congrats!
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Thanks for the general thoughts on the anchoring :) I purchased these levelers which I'll build a stand and put these into it along with the casters to move it as needed and hopefully give it a few extra inches so my back doesn't turn into a ?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EI ... UTF8&psc=1

I have the G8688 mini lathe and have been very pleased with it. The last thing I really need to complete my ensemble is a mill too :) I got some other tools but I intend to make them with the lathe and mill such as my tube roller.
I looked over the manual and it does look like I'll be spending a day or two cleaning this thing up and just getting it ready to do the spindle break ins.

I've heard mostly good things about Grizzly from what I've read but I never heard about them until I looked into a lathe. Looks like they have some relation to Shop Fox and I like the drill press I was given but even if no relation I will say the lathe is solid for what it is and turning 2" round steel isn't an issue. It looks like they picked solid components too but we'll see soon enough :D

The push rods sounded simple enough until I looked at the base of the machine. It has two 2x4 slots cut out on either side so rolling would not be an option. I don't even think the machine skates would work out plus this just looks like it'd be a disaster with the profile and electro gizmos. Perhaps they wanted to ensure there's no backwoods moving for this machine ;) Definitely a hoist/lift.

As for the tooling vs the mill price.... yeah it looks like to get pretty much everything I'd generally want/need with a gimmic tool or two will be about half the price of the mill itself. But will it be worth it? YES! Especially after all the plumbing, drywall, irrigation, electrical, roofing, and cleaning I endured to make my old house a perfect repair free home for it's new owner ;)
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Pony up some dough and hire one of these with appropriate crew to get it in properly. Theres no point in damaging your equipment and your life. Search under machinery relocation.

http://www.terex.com/cranes/en/aboutus/ ... ds/Franna/
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Yeah I've decided to go with a rigging crew to move it in. I'll lift it myself since I should be able to do that with my equipment, it's just the moving and driveway that are sketchy.
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Jim FLinchbaugh
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I should have mentioned, the mil was set on a piece of 3/4 plywood with pushrods underneath,
greased lightning :)
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cool
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entity-unknown wrote:Yeah I've decided to go with a rigging crew to move it in. I'll lift it myself since I should be able to do that with my equipment, it's just the moving and driveway that are sketchy.
I have a 2 ton shop crane that looks like the mill foot print will fit in at the 1.5 and 2 ton lift points. It's the HF 2 ton engine crane.
You plan to lift it off the pallet with an engine hoist type shop crane? That won't work. A gantry crane yes, a rented telescoping fork lift (how I moved my last knee mill) yes.

Even if its off the pallet and sitting on the floor, while you can wheel an engine hoist in there, the mills don't lift level and typically you have to extend the boom on your hoist then its no longer rated for 2 ton. Mine was 1,000 lbs and it was dicey moving it just a few feet into position with the engine hoist. Just saying.
Farmwelding
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Coolidge wrote:
entity-unknown wrote:Yeah I've decided to go with a rigging crew to move it in. I'll lift it myself since I should be able to do that with my equipment, it's just the moving and driveway that are sketchy.
I have a 2 ton shop crane that looks like the mill foot print will fit in at the 1.5 and 2 ton lift points. It's the HF 2 ton engine crane.
You plan to lift it off the pallet with an engine hoist type shop crane? That won't work. A gantry crane yes, a rented telescoping fork lift (how I moved my last knee mill) yes.

Even if its off the pallet and sitting on the floor, while you can wheel an engine hoist in there, the mills don't lift level and typically you have to extend the boom on your hoist then its no longer rated for 2 ton. Mine was 1,000 lbs and it was dicey moving it just a few feet into position with the engine hoist. Just saying.
Yeah using an enigma lift goes on and off. We used it to puck up our new lathe at school. We had to rearrange the straps 3-4 times just to get it off the pallet and then up onto the stand without killing ourselv
A student now but really want to weld everyday. Want to learn everything about everything. Want to become a knower of all and master of none.
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