Metal cutting - oxyfuel cutting, plasma cutting, machining, grinding, and other preparatory work.
LavenderBirch
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When you see folks chop off the end of a billet that didn't forge weld using the chop/miter saw, what kind of blades do I need to order so that I can accomplish the same thing?VidMate Mobdro


Would this be a good one?
Last edited by LavenderBirch on Wed Jul 14, 2021 5:02 am, edited 1 time in total.
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A billet what? Of steel? Of Aluminum? Of copper?
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cj737
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Oscar wrote: Sat Jul 10, 2021 12:31 pm A billet what? Of steel? Of Aluminum? Of copper?
He did say "forge weld" so I think's it safe to assume steel.

I like 66 tooth carbide tipped blades. Pick your brand of preference. Good quality cutting fluid. Work's a treat.
G-ManBart
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LavenderBirch wrote: Sat Jul 10, 2021 9:46 am When you see folks chop off the end of a billet that didn't forge weld using the chop/miter saw, what kind of blades do I need to order so that I can accomplish the same thing?VidMate Mobdro


Would this be a good one?
I'm assuming you're talking about on Forged in Fire where they use the chop saw to cut off a section that didn't weld properly, right? If so, they're using abrasive cutting wheels, not carbide tip cutoff wheels because tool steel is quite a bit harder/tougher than mild steel and will quickly dull a carbide tip blade.

Dry cut saws using the carbide tip blades are great (I have one) but are really only good for mild steel and softer material. They also turn much slower than other chop saws....mine is around 1,450rpm versus more than twice that for a normal abrasive chop saw. I have an Evolution S380CPS which is a really nice saw, but even trying a couple of cuts on tool steel and alloy steel really dulled the blade I was using so I only cut those on the bandsaw now.
Miller Syncrowave 250DX TIGRunner
Miller Millermatic 350P
Miller Regency 200 W/22A and Spoolmatic 3
Hobart Champion Elite
Everlast PowerTIG 210EXT
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