[DLewis0289]

Technically no, the oxygen is in a gaseous state. But there are other concerns if somehow the valve got damaged or broken off. It's best to stand them up. I have safety rings on my bottles to satisfy DOT so I don't have to remove my regulators going down the road. And the oxygen bottle valve full open (don't back seat but open it up). The average person see's things like NO SMOKING OXYGEN! in hospitals and such. It's not the BOOM! factor it is the fact if a fire DOES start and raw oxygen gets loose and feeds it, virtually impossible to put out. The fire triangle....

[DLewis0289]

Better be FMJ, but wrong not the correct answer.

[Artie F. Emm]

Does that go along with the oxygen bottle too?

No, oxygen is stored as a gas and never changes phase. Acetylene is stored as a liquid and is delivered as a gas when you need it; the "laying down" hazard is getting liquid acetylene when you want gaseous. So it's ok to lay high pressure gas cylinders down.

Edit: "OK" but not ideal, per DLewis' post. I didn't see that he'd already responded.

[mcguyver]

Hello, I had a min to post so I wanted to ask anyone if bead blasting a torch that's being rebuilt won't harm the torch?
I had read on other sites that some people don't like their torch bead blasted. Do I have to have it bead blasted when I get it rebuilt? Seems to me that beadblasteing would take the patina (aging) off. I really don't care to have my torch sparkly shiny. Any input about bead blasting would be great. Everyone have a great day. Thanks.
Rick, aka mcguyver.

[DLewis0289]

BTW....the answer to the trivia question is drill a 1/4" hole through the plate first where you want to cut.

[Otto Nobedder]

BTW....the answer to the trivia question is drill a 1/4" hole through the plate first where you want to cut.

That's cheating. For the 2" hole you described, I start about one-third diameter from an edge, heat to sparkly, then tilt the torch to 60* toward the center,and wash through to begin the penetration.

For a 1/2" hole, I'll drill...

Steve S.

[Artie F. Emm]

>>beadblasting
I worked at a LWS that repaired regs and torches, and beadblasting followed by a rattlecan paint job were SOP. The torch and attachment I sent to the Reg & Torch Repair website were beadblasted, too.

If you send gear to them, you could specify you don't want beadblasting. They called me before they started work on my gear, so you could ask about pros and cons of blasting (if there are any).

[DLewis0289]

BTW....the answer to the trivia question is drill a 1/4" hole through the plate first where you want to cut.

That's cheating. For the 2" hole you described, I start about one-third diameter from an edge, heat to sparkly, then tilt the torch to 60* toward the center,and wash through to begin the penetration.

For a 1/2" hole, I'll drill...

Steve S.

Ouch, that makes my hair hurt

[The_Fixer]

Ok, since it's been more than a few days since posing the question, I'll have a shot.
I would preheat significantly underneath the plate first, get it nice and warm (helps with making a smoother cut too).
Then on the topside about 1/3 away from the line, get it fairly red on top and start the cut, moving slowly parallel to the line and lifting the torch up and down to prevent the blowback hitting the torch as I slowly open the cutting trigger. Once through, move towards the line (I usually use a pivot guide - like a compass point for circles, preset for size) and stop just close to the line and put my point into the centre mark and start the cut. If I have to stop near the line, I usually make a small diameter circle, so it is easier to start the cut again. I swing the opposite way to my usual rotation a little to clear the rough bit away for a smoother end finish and swing back to the normal direction and start cutting.
2" is generally about my limit for punching straight through with the cutting torch, after that about a 1/2" hole gets drilled first. If it's too small it is harder to get the heat to conduct through for starting.

Do I pass?

[DLewis0289]

Lol yes you do. If I am close to the edge i just start on the edge and head to the hole. If not, I drill a hole, I get impatient waiting for it to heat

For entertainment I like to watch a FNG keep pulling the trigger before it's ready and doing the blow back dance.

Some of you guys might remember these (hell they still may make them). It was for an Oxweld and they were called 300 blow tips. In our old shop we had bulk storage MAPP outside and taps piped all over inside. These freaking things were like a rosebud for cutting, would cut a path 3/4" wide and I never ran across anything to thick for them. This was circa 1980's.

[Otto Nobedder]

I don't recall encountering a 300 blow tip...

I have done much demolition with a #4 NG/Oxy tip. Never encountered anything it wouldn't cut, but lighting a large natural gas/oxy torch was more art than science...

Steve S

[DLewis0289]

I googled and couldn't find them. I am guessing the name 300 blow tip was maybe slang the guys used. I do remember the welding shop stocked them and the torches for a Pullman Standard train car repair shop we had locally.