Metal cutting - oxyfuel cutting, plasma cutting, machining, grinding, and other preparatory work.
mcguyver
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Hi everyone. My name is Rick. I am a newbie here and I need ur advice on a small problem I'm having. My uncle had passed away last August and his kids (my first cousins) gave me their dads oxygen & acetylene torches. None of my cousins know anything about torches and don't care to learn. My uncle has the cw300 oxweld by purox, (2 piece) Well, I found out that Victor bought out purox and that this torch is being fazed out. So my dilemma is, do I spend over $100 to get his torch rebuilt ( u can still get parts and tips for it) the torch needs a complete rebuilt, my uncle never kept his tools up. Or should I just buy a new cutting outfit? I really like cutting with the purox cw300, very balanced and feels nice in the hand to work with. If I do buy a new outfit, what Victor torch would come close to the purox cw300? This will be my first torch purchase if I decide to go that route. I was also given the smaller torch- cw200 for my uncles baby tanks. Thank you everyone.
Artie F. Emm
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Welcome, Rick!
Can I ask, who told you the torch will be discontinued? I checked online and didn't see anything like that- altho my search was admittedly quick. If you were at a welding supply and a salesman-type said that, he may have been looking for commission on a sale.

Colfax, the holding company that owns Esab (owner of the Purox and Oxweld brands) has now also bought Victor. I have read on these forums that Esab answers the phone when you call, so you might confirm the discontinued idea before deciding your next move.

I had a torch and cutting attachment rebuilt at this company
http://www.regulatortorchrepair.com
... and had a good experience. I bought the torch off Craigslist and it had been stored outside, I think, so it was pretty rough but it came back looking new. Cost for that was a touch over $100 and included new check valves (a safety feature) and a new cutting tip. They answer the phone, too, if you want to call.

Have you used the torches and regulators, or pressurized them to see if they work? It's possible they don't need repair, altho I understand getting them checked out before using them.

Let us know how it goes!
Dave
aka "RTFM"
mcguyver
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Dave, I had called 3 shops where I live local and both said they can't get a rebuild kit for it. I also looked on line at esab.com and still can't find a rebuild kit. One local shop (Airgas) said that Victor is giving a $100 dollar rebate on the purox torch when u turn it in for new different one. My second shop said (Praxair) to go with their Pro-star heave duty kit which is on sale now for $291. And yes, I have used my uncles purox oxweld torch millions of times, the flame will pop out. I have taken it apart- (2 piece) and the one rubber o-ring is so dry rotted. I thank you for the web link for the rebuild, I'm going to look into that. Plus I have my uncle's smaller torch (cw200) that I'll get rebuilt also. I have found aftermarket parts kit for my torch but will never put aftermarket parts in it. If I can't find the original parts then my uncle's torches are going up over the fireplace mantal- lol. Thanks for all ur help.
Rick, <aka> mcguyver.
Artie F. Emm
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I just checked: Regulator & Torch Repair has a parts kit for your CW300: $20.

My LWS also has a rebate if you turn in old equipment to buy new. They have a barrel full of torches and regulators that have been turned in, and I've thought about asking the guy if I can fish through it. Some of the equipment looks almost new, and I'm sure I could replace whatever o-ring or diaphragm to get it working again.
Dave
aka "RTFM"
mcguyver
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I really appreciate that Dave. It's gonna need a complete rebuilt cause my uncle (god bless him) never kept up his equipment. The torch keeps popping like the tip is dirty. I know the o-rings are dry rotted. I downloaded the repair form from the website u sent me and was going to send it in to be rebuilt. Plus I have a cw200 that I want rebuilt as well. Then later on I have the regulator's checked cause their is one gauge on the acetylene that doesn't work.
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mcguyver wrote:... Then later on I have the regulator's checked cause their is one gauge on the acetylene that doesn't work.
Tell me it's not the low-pressure gauge... Gaseous acetylene in the lines cannot be allowed to exceed 15 psi. It can break down and spontaneously combust. It's a real hazard. If it is the low gauge, replace it before using the torch.

I'll add, (and if you know this, ignore me,) don't store or transport your acetylene bottle on it's side, and if you must, let it stand upright for several hours to overnight before using it. Acetylene is stored dissolved in acetone in a porous medium like pumice, safely allowing pressures above 15 psi. Having the bottle on it's side puts that acetone into the valve, and it must drain back completely into the bottle before opening the valve, else you risk losing acetone creating space for gas in the bottle at dangerous pressure, and exposing your regulator to acetone which is NOT good for it, your hoses, your torch, or what you're trying to cut.

Steve S
mcguyver
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Yes Steve, I know about laying the acetylene bottle on its side. I always stand my bottles upright and ratchet bind it in the back of my pickem up truck. I know ur just looking out for my safty and I really appreciate that. As for the gauge, It's the high side gauge on the oxygen regulator. It's been missing the glass lens for like ever. I plan on sending in the regulator's to have them looked at and repair the guage. This outfit came from a steel mill that my uncle worked at. My uncle tought me how to cut steel and I don't want to brag but I can cut 1/2 thick steel pretty good. My uncle never really tought me how to set the regulator's, he would set them and teach me how to cut. I picked up about 6 books, pamphlets and charts all about welding cutting and all different kinds of gasses that I'm reading plus, I have been watching videos on utube for the pass week. Very good information on utube about how to be safe when using torches. A begginer has to start somewhere.
Rick<aka> mcguyver.
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Otto Nobedder wrote:
mcguyver wrote:... Then later on I have the regulator's checked cause their is one gauge on the acetylene that doesn't work.
Tell me it's not the low-pressure gauge... Gaseous acetylene in the lines cannot be allowed to exceed 15 psi. It can break down and spontaneously combust. It's a real hazard. If it is the low gauge, replace it before using the torch.

I'll add, (and if you know this, ignore me,) don't store or transport your acetylene bottle on it's side, and if you must, let it stand upright for several hours to overnight before using it. Acetylene is stored dissolved in acetone in a porous medium like pumice, safely allowing pressures above 15 psi. Having the bottle on it's side puts that acetone into the valve, and it must drain back completely into the bottle before opening the valve, else you risk losing acetone creating space for gas in the bottle at dangerous pressure, and exposing your regulator to acetone which is NOT good for it, your hoses, your torch, or what you're trying to cut.

Steve S
Please heed the above, the old timer's rule is stand up for the same amount of time it was laying down. I have cheated that rule occasionally but there is really not a good reason to transport them laying down. Stood up preferred or 45 degrees at the most if necessary.

One last thing, you don't need to fully open the valve. If things do go wrong a quick turn to remove fuel source.


TRIVIA QUESTION: Best method to cut a 2" hole using a #2 tip in the center of a 2" Plate. Let the young guys answer you old farts lol.

P.S. Sorry for the loss of your Uncle.
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Scientists have substituted mathematics for experiments, and they wander off through equation after equation, and eventually build a structure which has no relation to reality." Nikola Tesla
mcguyver
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Does that go along with the oxygen bottle too?
mcguyver
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And the answer to ur trivia question is "use my 44 magnum revolver, that will put a hole in 2 inch steel. - lol
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Technically no, the oxygen is in a gaseous state. But there are other concerns if somehow the valve got damaged or broken off. It's best to stand them up. I have safety rings on my bottles to satisfy DOT so I don't have to remove my regulators going down the road. And the oxygen bottle valve full open (don't back seat but open it up). The average person see's things like NO SMOKING OXYGEN! in hospitals and such. It's not the BOOM! factor it is the fact if a fire DOES start and raw oxygen gets loose and feeds it, virtually impossible to put out. The fire triangle....
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Scientists have substituted mathematics for experiments, and they wander off through equation after equation, and eventually build a structure which has no relation to reality." Nikola Tesla
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Better be FMJ, but wrong not the correct answer.
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Scientists have substituted mathematics for experiments, and they wander off through equation after equation, and eventually build a structure which has no relation to reality." Nikola Tesla
Artie F. Emm
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mcguyver wrote:Does that go along with the oxygen bottle too?
No, oxygen is stored as a gas and never changes phase. Acetylene is stored as a liquid and is delivered as a gas when you need it; the "laying down" hazard is getting liquid acetylene when you want gaseous. So it's ok to lay high pressure gas cylinders down.

Edit: "OK" but not ideal, per DLewis' post. I didn't see that he'd already responded.
Dave
aka "RTFM"
mcguyver
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Hello, I had a min to post so I wanted to ask anyone if bead blasting a torch that's being rebuilt won't harm the torch?
I had read on other sites that some people don't like their torch bead blasted. Do I have to have it bead blasted when I get it rebuilt? Seems to me that beadblasteing would take the patina (aging) off. I really don't care to have my torch sparkly shiny. Any input about bead blasting would be great. Everyone have a great day. Thanks.
Rick, aka mcguyver.
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BTW....the answer to the trivia question is drill a 1/4" hole through the plate first where you want to cut.
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Scientists have substituted mathematics for experiments, and they wander off through equation after equation, and eventually build a structure which has no relation to reality." Nikola Tesla
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DLewis0289 wrote:BTW....the answer to the trivia question is drill a 1/4" hole through the plate first where you want to cut.
That's cheating. For the 2" hole you described, I start about one-third diameter from an edge, heat to sparkly, then tilt the torch to 60* toward the center,and wash through to begin the penetration.

For a 1/2" hole, I'll drill...

Steve S.
Artie F. Emm
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>>beadblasting
I worked at a LWS that repaired regs and torches, and beadblasting followed by a rattlecan paint job were SOP. The torch and attachment I sent to the Reg & Torch Repair website were beadblasted, too.

If you send gear to them, you could specify you don't want beadblasting. They called me before they started work on my gear, so you could ask about pros and cons of blasting (if there are any).
Dave
aka "RTFM"
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Otto Nobedder wrote:
DLewis0289 wrote:BTW....the answer to the trivia question is drill a 1/4" hole through the plate first where you want to cut.
That's cheating. For the 2" hole you described, I start about one-third diameter from an edge, heat to sparkly, then tilt the torch to 60* toward the center,and wash through to begin the penetration.

For a 1/2" hole, I'll drill...

Steve S.
Ouch, that makes my hair hurt :D
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Scientists have substituted mathematics for experiments, and they wander off through equation after equation, and eventually build a structure which has no relation to reality." Nikola Tesla
The_Fixer
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Ok, since it's been more than a few days since posing the question, I'll have a shot.
I would preheat significantly underneath the plate first, get it nice and warm (helps with making a smoother cut too).
Then on the topside about 1/3 away from the line, get it fairly red on top and start the cut, moving slowly parallel to the line and lifting the torch up and down to prevent the blowback hitting the torch as I slowly open the cutting trigger. Once through, move towards the line (I usually use a pivot guide - like a compass point for circles, preset for size) and stop just close to the line and put my point into the centre mark and start the cut. If I have to stop near the line, I usually make a small diameter circle, so it is easier to start the cut again. I swing the opposite way to my usual rotation a little to clear the rough bit away for a smoother end finish and swing back to the normal direction and start cutting.
2" is generally about my limit for punching straight through with the cutting torch, after that about a 1/2" hole gets drilled first. If it's too small it is harder to get the heat to conduct through for starting.

Do I pass?
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Lol yes you do. If I am close to the edge i just start on the edge and head to the hole. If not, I drill a hole, I get impatient waiting for it to heat :D

For entertainment I like to watch a FNG keep pulling the trigger before it's ready and doing the blow back dance.

Some of you guys might remember these (hell they still may make them). It was for an Oxweld and they were called 300 blow tips. In our old shop we had bulk storage MAPP outside and taps piped all over inside. These freaking things were like a rosebud for cutting, would cut a path 3/4" wide and I never ran across anything to thick for them. This was circa 1980's.
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Scientists have substituted mathematics for experiments, and they wander off through equation after equation, and eventually build a structure which has no relation to reality." Nikola Tesla
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I don't recall encountering a 300 blow tip...

I have done much demolition with a #4 NG/Oxy tip. Never encountered anything it wouldn't cut, but lighting a large natural gas/oxy torch was more art than science...

Steve S
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I googled and couldn't find them. I am guessing the name 300 blow tip was maybe slang the guys used. I do remember the welding shop stocked them and the torches for a Pullman Standard train car repair shop we had locally.
AWS D1.1 / ASME IX / CWB / API / EWI / RWMA / BSEE
Scientists have substituted mathematics for experiments, and they wander off through equation after equation, and eventually build a structure which has no relation to reality." Nikola Tesla
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