Welding Certification test Q&A and tips and tricks
bunk
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    Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:52 pm

Yea it sounded great bud. now i gotta see how it welds tomorrow. I'm waiting to talk to that guy myself about the test. He's back home right now with his family on vacaa. I need to know what size rods they are running for root, hot, fillers, and cap. I dont know if they have coupons already beveled, or if i gotta bevel them myself. I dont know what to do if i gotta bevel them cuz i dont have a pipe beveler set up. who knows. if you would happen to know any of this, hollar back at me if you would. I would really appreciate it. Well gotta go bud, hollar back when ya can. Bunk.
nickn372
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Usually the test coupons are beveled you just hafta tack em up and go. If not I have access to pipe bevelers no biggie. If there is a t involved the you hafta profile the pipe and cut the hole. That one is usually what takes the most time. Most guys I know are running 3/32 6010 for the root and 1/8 fill then 5/32 cap. The cap is the only place they would go to 7010 or 8010. At least that I have ever heard of. But you know engineers. Lincoln 6010 5p+ is about the best rod to run in my opinion. Just some of the stuff I have gotten from talkin to other guys. I run some hippies (red 6010) but I would prefer the 5p+ too.
Be the monkey....
bunk
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    Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:52 pm

Hey bud, i know that the test is 2" and 6" scheduled 80 pipe in a 6G position. I also know its 6010 root and 8010 the rest of the way out, all downhill. Dont know what size rods though. I just went and got some 2" sch.80 pipe and got my buddy machineing the bevel on them for me. each piece has a 30° bevel, 60° overall. Also has a 1/16 landing and a 1/16 root opening. I just got a 10lb container of 1/8" 6010 5p but cant afford the 8010 right now. that stuff is like 4.60 a lb. and you can only buy it in a 50lb box. I wanted to kbow if you had access to any of that or know anyone who does that might sell me some to practice with. ok bud i gotta go pick up my coupons, just wish i had some darn 8010. Ok hollar at me later on bud if ya can. Bunk.
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In my experience, 8010 is easier than 6010.

With a 1/16" root gap, and an 1/8" 6010, I'd personally run about 105A, 90* to the pipe, and jamb it in like I was trying to poke a hole. Jamb in and pull down, and the rod will do all the work. Gotta pay attention at the tacks, though, to tie them in. I like to cut the ends with a 1/16" cut-off wheel to a razor-edge.

Your mileage may vary.

Steve S.
nickn372
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I dont know if my friend has any 8010 or not. He would be the only one outside of a store that I know of. Hes pretty much exclusively a 6010 welder though. Believe me on this and you know it too if you welded uphill a lot before that 6" is rather simple its the 2" that will bust your balls because the angle changes so quickly on you. I will be up your way (actually streetsboro) on tuesday. Hafta go reinforce some trusses for an a/c unit. Maybe we can catch some coffee when I'm done.
Be the monkey....
bunk
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That would be great if your buddy would have some 8010. I will buy it from him if he will sell me some. and yea that sounds great to me on coffee when your done tuesday. I'm down in new philly all the time and at midvale speedway workin. hell i grew up in beach city and outside dundee so I'm pretty familiar with the area down that way too if ya wanna meet for some coffee down that way. I got my buddys 305 g lincoln to practice and take the test with. it has the downhill pipe setting right on it which is cool. well gotta go bud. let me know if you need my ph. # again.
bunk
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    Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:52 pm

Hey steve s, thank you for the info bud, everything you guys tell me helps a lot. i jyst got home from getting my coupons cut and machined down so i can get some arc time in. now i can run the root but still screwed till i can locate some 8010. Thanks again for your help buddy. bunk.
bunk
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    Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:52 pm

Found some 8010 rod. That place in new philliy, gemstone gas. His name is rich. He is a good dude, he busted open a box and sold me 20lbs for 60 bucks cash. time to make some smoke today.
bunk
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    Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:52 pm

Anybody have aa rough idea on the amperage for the 5 /32" 8010? I'm doin good with the 1/8" 6010 @ around 106 amps.
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I'd start around 135-140 and feel it out from there. If you like 106 for the 1/8 6010, I'd start 140 and work up 'til comfortable.

Just a starting point, as I've never met two of us who do it exactly the same.

Steve S.
bunk
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    Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:52 pm

I'm really struggling with blowing through on my root pass. i kicked it down some and it just keeps wanting to stick on me, but if i go up at all I'm burning through. any suggestions from anyone. Runnin the down hill is sure different than up with a root opening. and does anyone know exactly what the bevel is supposed to be on my 2 pieces.I thought it was supposed to be 37.5 on each side. any suggestions on that. ok, thanks for all the help guys. Bunk.
nickn372
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You have the right bevel. For the gap 1/16" is a good tight gap. I am a little surprised that they dont give you more land though. Usually its 1/8 even for a tighter gap like 1/16. If you are on 2" pipe remember that the coupon is soaking up all of that 105 or whatever amps you are putting into it. That tends to he the problem with running 1/8" rod on a downhill root. At least until you get to the actual 40 foot pieces of pipe. This is one good reason to switch to the 3/32 rod for the rood. Run a 3/32 at 75-80 amps and let it breathe between rods. Keep it really tight like you are trying to force it through the gap do a slight drag angle and keep movin so that you hear the rod blowin through the gap. Running uphill you have the puddle behind you that you are pullin up with you. Downhill you have the puddle pushin back at you as you try to penetrate the gap properly. One of the best little tidbit I ever got was "if it starts to feel like its gonna blow out.... stop.... let it breathe.. feather the end... and try again". Nobody is going to fail you or make fun of you. Or chew you out cuz you didnt burn the rod one end to the other or make it completely from top to bottom. But they will get after you for blowing it out and failing the joint and having to grind the whole thing out and fix it.
Be the monkey....
bunk
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    Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:52 pm

Well thanks a lot for the info buddy. I'm gonna give it a shot in the morning and see what i come up with. I'm starting to think that this 305 ranger isnt keeping a steady amp. the meter is all over the place and it seems good for a minute then its like its surging and then i blow through my pieces. I'm going to get my sa 200 back tomorrow morning then going to try it again. thanks again bud.
nickn372
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Check to make sure you are all set the way you need to be on the ranger. Its a cc/cv welder and if you are in cv mode it will really goof with the amps and will net stick weld right at all. I run into that sometimes when I run my suitcase mig then switch to stick welding and forget either the process switch or to switch from the cv port to the cc port for the hot lead.
Be the monkey....
bunk
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    Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:52 pm

Yea i had it set to the downhill pipe setting and tried cc also and kept gettin the same crap. I got my sa200 back now and it runs like a dream. It just lays it in there like butter. What do you use to space your root opening at 1/16. I been useing a quarter and I'm thinking that maybe its a little to thick, whats your opinion bud. I finally got a hold of a friend of mine that has worked for bi con for over 20 years and he said about a dime thickness. does that sound right to you? I dont know how picky the guys giving these tests are or nothing. if ya would yell back at me. thanks bunches. Phill.
nickn372
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They arent gonna check your gap before you put the root pass in unless you show up with some kind of jerk attitude. Usually the wps will say 1/16" +/- 1/32". A dime is prolly perdy close. I always used some cut length pieces for the gap but once in a while they get difficult to get out. I know there are wedge spacers out there that come out really easy. A small screwdriver will work too if you know how deep to put it into the root. Just dont get so hung up on the spacer as much as you make sure the root lays in nice and even. If its an xray test they will see the whole profile of the weld and even if you leave some undercut. It all starts at the root. Crappy root crappy fill and cap.
Be the monkey....
bunk
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    Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:52 pm

Ok buddy, thanks for the info. I'm gonna set up some pieces in the morning with a little smaller gap and go at it some more. i think i gotta cut straps out and bend them. I'm not to sure what else they'll have me do. I do know its not an x ray though. thanks again bud. Phil.
nickn372
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Bend tests are pretty easy to pass compared to xrays. I know if you have to test for any of the gas utilities its all xray. Do you know if this is union or not? I'm gonna be up your way tomorrow too if you aren't busy maybe we can catch up around lunch.
Be the monkey....
bunk
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    Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:52 pm

Yea, give me a call bud
bunk
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    Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:52 pm

Hey buddy, did you ever get a hold of that guy and get any more info out of him. I am kinda wandering how long they are gonna be runnin pipe around here. well ya get a chance hollar back at me or just text me. Wanted to say thank you very much for comeing over and helping me today bud, i do appreciate it very much. Thanks again bud. Bunk
nickn372
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No I didnt call him yet. I will later this week probably. As far as I know from who I know and have talked to the pipe aying will be runnin full bore for the next 10+ years or as long as the shale gas boom holds out. I'll let you know what I can get out of him. No prob for stoppin by. One thing I thought of after I got drivin down the road... copper wound welders weld differently than aluminum wound welders. I've seen as big as 30-35 amps difference from one welder to another with copper windings being the main difference. Your SA is all copper and that 305 ranger would be aluminum. So with the 3/32 on the SA we were around 60-65 amps. If we would jump to that ranger we would need to be up in the 80-85 range. Hope that helps you in the future. I'll be in touch.
Be the monkey....
birdkiller
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    Sun May 05, 2013 10:56 pm

Here is a sad story.....I worked for a city out here in California as a welder in a water dept. We had an old SA Machine rusting in the back of our yard for years. It worked fine just had 2 flat tires and a dead battery. I offered to buy that bad boy a million times and was turned down due to conflict of interest. The city ended up selling it at auction and some guy paid $100 for it. He rolled into the yard pulled the old wheels off, threw 2 new ones on, dumped in gallon of gas or two and a battery and it fired up. He smiled said thanks have a nice day and drove off. I was pissed I wanted that machine so bad. The only downfall was that the really old gas driven machines were DC only; even the generator. The diesel driven were DC but had an AC generator.
delraydella
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You're right, that's a sad story. And all for just a $100!


Other Steve
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nevans140
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    Fri Oct 03, 2014 8:42 pm

Hey Nick who are you testing for in Ohio I live in Ohio and work for bilfinger westcon looking to test for a pipeline company tho.
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Very old post. Be careful of that.

Mick
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