Welding Certification test Q&A and tips and tricks
SkyDawg
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Video??
SkyDawg
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I watched the previous one posted on this thread...many times. Jody has been teaching me for a while, but if there's another one you're talkin about, ill definitely check it out
Arizona SA200
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Again every machine is different but i run about 85 for 3/32 all the way out. On a good slow weave you can carry a puddle about the size of a dime for the fill pass on the heavier pipe. Schd 40 holds the heat so you cant go that big. I'd say fill and cap weave is the same just a little more pause on the cap to break down that bevel. And dont be afraid to let it cool between passes, to much heat in the pipe will cause undercut no matter what your amperage is at.
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this video, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UP8hh0yQibM

ps. its 45min long

Its the best stick welding video in the WORLD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by AKweldshop on Sat Feb 15, 2014 1:31 am, edited 1 time in total.
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SkyDawg
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AZSA200,
That's perfect. I think I definitely need to bring my heat down just a bit. I'm using a Miller XMT 304 at work. I appreciate all of the info greatly.
SkyDawg
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haha, thx for the post script. gonna check it out now, thank you.
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Your fill pass looks a lot better! I would even hold it tighter yet, but there is nothing wrong with this one. Now when you put your cover pass on everything should be fine.
When I am "teaching" someone 6G or even vertical up I always try to stress to not be afraid of the puddle dropping out on you. I can get it to where you would think it is dropping out but when you chip the slag it is good. I was showing someone vertical up MIG and while I was welding they were panicing telling me to speed up. Turned out they just had a fear that pushed them to move faster than they needed to.
One thing I would advise against, and this is just a personal preference and what has worked for me, do not grind your passes flat before you put your cover pass on. I have found that it can lead to more problems. For me you want that center to be ever so slightly raised, otherwise you will have to pause in the center longer. Like I said it works for me.
Get your pictures of the cover pass on here. I think you are doing a great job!
SkyDawg
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Thanks a lot Jonathan, I really appreciate it. That's a great point about grinding or not grinding before the cover pass. That's always a tricky part of the weld, because slightly below flush is the standard. I actually put a cap on this weld last night, I just forgot to snap a pic...I will definitely have a picture of the cap on Monday. I never want to be too low, because I've noticed if I'm just a little bit low, my 3rd stringer (top bevel/ stringer) has a little undercut which i obviously need to avoid...so to me, slightly below flush is so close to flush. And holding the sides tighter definitely worked, it flattened out the bead a little bit more and fused into both sides much better...great advice! Thanks a lot, all the advice helps immensely. I'll have more soon. Much obliged.
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Did the video give you some pointers?
You'll have to wait out the video, Its got some really good arc shots.
John~
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Arizona SA200
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I'll agree with superior, once i grind my root I dont touch a grinder again. Some tests wont let you. A pipeliner file is the best way to go. On a pipe test i dont use a chipping hammer because they can leave peen marks that can bust you on Xray. The file is your best friend.
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SkyDawg
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John, I checked out that video, watched the whole thing. There were some really good shots of the puddle and whatnot...definitely took something from it...good recommendation. And AZSA200, I try not to grind to much either. I pretty much use a half round file, a wire wheel and a cut off wheel for cleaning up the root pass or any high spots I might have. I think the biggest thing for me was that I had my heat just a bit too high. I originally was welding the hot pass @ 95 amps w/ 3/32 7018--too hot for me. Since then I've been bringing it down little by little and things have been much more smooth, though I still need some more work. I'll be welding 6" in the 6G pos all next week when I get the time..so hopefully there will be improvements. I'll keep yall posted. All the info and advice is priceless..thank you all kindly.
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SkyDawg,
How did your cover pass turn out?
SkyDawg
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I'm gonna post the cover pass any minute now. I'm still having a tough time with the hot pass, everything else feels pretty good. It's hard to see the problems in the pics tho. mainly, when I run my hot pass..I weave and my heat is around 87-90. The thing that is really frustrating is that I'm leaving little ripples of undercut in the bevel. I know I should be holding the sides, but it feels like I am. The slag doesn't come off nearly as well as the fill and cap passes, which tells me that something is wrong. Should I just be doing a slight weave on the hot pass? Like I said, its tough to see in the pic, but these little pockets of undercut trap slag, and im able to grind most of it out...but it feels like I must be doing something that I can fix...just frustrating is all. Thx for the help people, cover pass will be here in the next few hours with possibly a few other pics.
Attachments
left side, toe has little crescent shaped undercut in certain areas which should be filled with metal...
left side, toe has little crescent shaped undercut in certain areas which should be filled with metal...
hotpass.jpg (46.32 KiB) Viewed 2124 times
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From what I've found throughout my years of trial and error, is that vertical stick hast to be a very tight amp range.
Vertical up with 1/8 7018 can be a mess if your to hot or to cold, or it can be so much fun, and be a very controlible puddle if your amps are just right.
I always try a rod on scrap before I do a weld on a part.
Just out of curiosity, why did you choose 3/32 rods?
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SkyDawg
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That's a good question. To be honest, I feel I have a little bit more control with the 3/32 rods. Plus, I dont have to weld as hot with them as opposed to 1/8. I've been taking classes at a community college, and the way we do it there is, we use 3/32 for hot and fill passes..and then we would do a cap with 1/8..but this was on plate vertical up. It feels like that the groove is really tight on the hot pass when doing this 6G..maybe I should tighten up my weave for the hot pass, as opposed to spreading out the weld so much into each bevel..like almost a stringer but still a weave. The fill pass is really smooth for me..its just that hot pass...the slag is harder to remove and it seems that no matter how long i hold the sides, there's still some places where undercut is present...Ill try and take some better pics soon..Ill be welding another one up here shortly.
SkyDawg
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Here is a better pic of what I'm talkin about. Notice the slag on the left side..what can i do to prevent this? It's always on that top bevel. I purposely hold the top longer. As for the slag, I'm able to grind most of it out...but I want to be able to correct this. I'm tempted to start running stringers all the way out to the cover pass...I'm just so used to weaving. I'd like to be able to not have to grind, I understand that's part of the deal..but on the hot pass, I have to grind a lot. Anyone ever had this problem?
Attachments
3 bead cover pass--6G
3 bead cover pass--6G
Cover pass.jpg (29.82 KiB) Viewed 1935 times
Hot pass with slag trapped in the toes; left side..about half way up
Hot pass with slag trapped in the toes; left side..about half way up
hotpass.jpg (44.15 KiB) Viewed 1935 times
Arizona SA200
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What is your arc length? Vert up and 6g I run a very tight arc length so the arc wont wander and cause undercut. Looks to me like the slag in there is pretty minimal and you should be able to knock that out with a half round file pretty easy. Hold the sides and be quick across the middle with a tight arc. I think its looking good just keep at it.
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SkyDawg

How good are your rods?
Oven? Brand?
Condition of rods can make a lot of difference.

~John
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Arizona SA200
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That's a good point AK.
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SkyDawg,
I think it is looking good. The grinding will go down as your skill/seat time goes up. My first few 6G 2" practice pieces required a lot of grinding. I know you don't want to grind and it can be embarrassing when others hear the grinder fire up, but are you allowed to use the grinder to pass this test? If you are use it and pass. I AM NOT saying to just overlook your problems, or not to learn how to pass with just a file, but a lot of real life conditions will allow the use of a grinder. You will obviously get more satisfaction from passing without the grinder...just some thoughts.
Hold those sides a little longer and I think your slag problem will go away.
It also could be your rods. A little story....When we go to Brazil we are always at the mercy at what ever they have around. They have a 5 gallon bucket full of 7018 that has been who knows where and has enough moisture to fill the bucket, but we have no choice to use them and get back home. There will be times when you may not have all the variables correct and have to just go with the flow. This time when we go, we have already shipped sealed 7018's down for our use only.
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Hey Superior,

What kinda gig you got? I wouldn't mind getting in on some work in like that.
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SkyDawg
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hey guys,
I really appreciate all of the advice on this subject..its been great. After reading thru your stuff..I guess I may just be over thinking/over reacting...which is good news to me. Superior, I can use a grinder and definitely will, haha. I took a test last week and failed it with a 1/2" slag inclusion..pretty disappointed, but on to the next one. I have another one coming up soon...a few days from now..little nervous, but again, with the advice here and the fact that you don't think that the slag in the side is too bad, that makes me feel more at ease. About the rods..I bought some Lincoln Excalibur 7018MR (3/32)..took them out of the can and put directly into the oven. Started welding with them about an hour and half later and it almost seemed like the slag was even more rough to come off than the other Lincoln rods we have...that seriously frustrated me..I actually stopped welding and decide to take a break. It's just that stubborn hot pass that is getting me, it always leaves a little undercut in the bevel(s) and slag in the toes. I've tried every type of heat/dig combo within the specs...can't seem to find a sweet spot...it almost feels like I've regressed in the last week. Like i said, the fact that I will use a grinder and I only missed by 1/2 inch makes me feel a little more comfortable tho. Thanks to all who helped me out with advice, it is greatly appreciated and has definitely helped. I'll keep yall posted...
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCdmlTxq1Co
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FBuscHRI9ko

Here's some 7018 uphill video's with some good arc shots.
Hope this helps,
John~
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Murlin
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A hot pass generally doesn't mean your temp has to be higher....it's called that because it needs to be a good solid bead.


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SkyDawg
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Passed it!!
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