Stick Welding Tips, Certification tests, machines, projects
fitter33
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I just started attending stick welding class at the local fitters hall, and so far I've done 2 X 2.5 hour sessions over 2 weeks, and I'm using a Lincoln Invertec 350 at 73-78 amps with 1/8" 6010 rods. I am learning a lot about rod angle, travel speed, and arc gap, but I feel like I'm not progressing well overall, specifically keeping my beads straight/square. Any tips other than run more stringers? The welding instructor wants me to progress to welding together 2 pieces of plate next week. Would I be better off running a weld pad? Thanks- AJ
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Just the video for you mate :D
I'd turn it up to 90-100amps....set more on the crisp side.

http://welding-tv.com/2013/11/05/6010-pad-beads/
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fitter33
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AKweldshop wrote:Just the video for you mate :D
I'd turn it up to 90-100amps....set more on the crisp side.

http://welding-tv.com/2013/11/05/6010-pad-beads/
Great video, thanks!
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Here's some I've run, (just messing around on scrap), this was with a Invertec 250, about 100amps, +10 arc force....

1/8" 7010 hyp.
You need at least 90amps.
Just a couple welders and a couple of big hammers and torches.

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fitter33
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AKweldshop wrote:Image



Here's some I've run, (just messing around on scrap), this was with a Invertec 250, about 100amps, +10 arc force....

1/8" 7010 hyp.
You need at least 90amps.
Good to know, thanks. Were you using the whip and pause on these beads ?
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fitter33 wrote:
AKweldshop wrote:Image



Here's some I've run, (just messing around on scrap), this was with a Invertec 250, about 100amps, +10 arc force....

1/8" 7010 hyp.
You need at least 90amps.
Good to know, thanks. Were you using the whip and pause on these beads ?
Yes....It helps flatten the bead out for me.
Just a couple welders and a couple of big hammers and torches.

Men in dirty jeans built this country, while men in clean suits have destroyed it.
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Blue Diver
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Do you know how you get to Carnegie Hall? ............. Practice.

Don't get discouraged. It is easier than ever to learn a trade these days. If you have the passion to learn, the information is out there. Watch youtube, read a book, look at a forum ( like this one! :D ) and go weld. Have a problem? Google it and there are ample answers to help remedy your problem.

I learned to weld in the Navy, but have not run more than a few beads in the last 5 years or so. I have recently set out on my own welding odyssey to knock off the rust and re-ignite the fire for fabrication. I use it in my business but also find it very enjoyable to end the day with a few holes in my clothes and something that I built with my own hands that will stand the test of time. I have basically started over in my education. Today I finished padding a plate much like yours with 6011 and an old buzz box. After completion, I felt like I should get another plate and do it again!

My advice is to try and not get ahead of yourself. There are so many types of welding, so many base metals, so many filler metals, etc. that it can seem to be overwhelming. Your working 6010.... go learn everything you can about the rod, how the pros use the rod and what they use it for. Then go work on that rod. Don't worry about 7018, 7014, 6013, and the million other SMAW rods. And don't even think about GTAW or GMAW and everything that gos along with them.

Hope this helps.
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your beads look cold and "ropey" to me, you may need more amps. Your travel speed looks a little inconsistent as well. As far as "straightness" that will come when you have a target to aim for. You could draw soapstone lines on the plate, or just go on to padding beads. when padding beads, try to overlap the previous bead by ~50%. That gives you a target to aim for and you can practice aiming your beads so to speak. Its a precursor to placing your beads correctly in a lap or tee joint. If it were me, I would switch to rod that isn't fast freeze. Might make your initial practice more productive if you aren't trying to figure out how to whip and pause while you are also trying to aim the bead correctly. Too many moving parts at once in my opinion.
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ChrisP
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All good advice here. Keep practicing, evaluate what you see and try to improve on the rough spots. I personally would recommend a pad "exercise", it will help you make more consistent and straighter beads. Keep working at it!!!
Turn it to DC+ and bust off the knob.
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ChrisP wrote:All good advice here. Keep practicing, evaluate what you see and try to improve on the rough spots. I personally would recommend a pad "exercise", it will help you make more consistent and straighter beads. Keep working at it!!!

Welcome to the forum mate!!
I love your sig line!!
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forrestderp
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Hey man if you are still having trouble going straight, just draw a straight line with your soap stone and a straight edge and follow that!
ChrisP
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Thank You!!!
Turn it to DC+ and bust off the knob.
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