Stick Welding Tips, Certification tests, machines, projects
Artie F. Emm
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  • Joined:
    Thu Jul 24, 2014 7:53 am

Welcome, FireKracker50!

>>"The 3/32" 6011 is allot harder to run and VERY hard to get a pretty looking run"
6011 is a "fast freeze" rod and results in a rougher looking weld.

>>"I think i may get a box of 6010 and try them."
Inverters don't run 6010 rods well, unless they are specifically designed with a specific 6010 port to jack the lead into. Not sure if your Everlast has the 6010 port- not all of them have it- so you may get frustrating results.

Good on ya for getting into stick welding!
Dave
aka "RTFM"
cj737
  • Posts:
  • Joined:
    Thu Sep 29, 2016 8:59 am

FireKracker50 wrote:
7018 Weave
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... mIyRjNDVGM
This looks pretty good to me, though I don't know why you'd weave with a 7018?

7018 2F
Cursive e
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... VlFU2hqR1k
looks well laid in to me

Half Whip and Pause Half Cursive e
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... DU1VGJ5QVk
I don't "whip" 7018 rods. I lay them in and burn them. I leave the whip for 60xx

7018 single tree repair
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... XF6TDVaZUE
I see a lot of weld, as long as you feel confident you don't have voids below, it looks good.

Trying to learn TIG as well.
Outside corner Vertical Up
1/4" Plate, 150Amps, 3/32" 2% Lanthanated, 3/32" ER70S-6
Should have used more filler and more heat i think...
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... zZhQ3MwazA
You say this was welded uphill? It looks like downhill to me from the direction of the freeze lines. My opinion is that whenever you weld downhill with TIG, penetration is at risk because you're asking the puddle to defy gravity. When I do TIG downhill on thick metal, I feed the rod from behind the torch, and pull it forward, step back, feed, pull forward. Kind of the opposite of aluminum feeding.

First attempt at Aluminum
Unknown grade of plate. Cut in half and did flat butt weld.
3/32" 2% Lanthanated, 3/32" 4043, 120Hz, 30%ish cleaning
I've done more since then and getting better at it. But still not great.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... FdGYXk0UnM
You don't indicate thickness of plate or amps used, so the only comment I can make is, for a first try, you did well. Try traveling farther and dabbing less. Equal travel distance to rod diameter is my rule of thumb.
There's a trick you can also try to employ: if you use a pyrex cup, you can see better. But when you add filler and move forward, you will notice the puddle sort of "suck in or recede". Thats when you know you've gotten the penetration you seek and its time to add wire and travel again.


Attempted razor blades, heat built up too fast i didn't move fast enough and didn't let out on the pedal fast enough. I didn't have a chill block either. It was sitting on 1/8"x6"x6" steel plate.
1/16" 2% Lanthanated, 1/16" ER70S-6
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0ByqkC ... GUzRVhyd3M
I didn't even bother to look. I will simply say, Bravo for trying regardless of your success! :)
FireKracker50
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    Tue Dec 27, 2016 2:00 am

Thanks for all the great feedback.
The box was tig welded together before the lid and hinges were welded on. So when i was welding the outside corner joints it was sitting with the lid side down flat on the plate. So when i welded the joint it was 180deg from the way it is sitting in the picture.

I was using a #6 alumina cup when i did the aluminum. I dont have pyrex cups or gas lenses...yet!
I want to get some stubby gas lens setups, and maybe pyrex cups down the road.

I will be trying the razor blades again soon. I think i can make it happen next try... or maybe 10 more tries.
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