Stick Welding Tips, Certification tests, machines, projects
Maloney1220
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6010 rod then 7018 both 3/32 flat. Then a few more. Comments appreciated !! I've watched every videos multiple times over the last year or so. Been waiting for today to come forever haha. Ps.. tig finger=awesome even for stick. THANKS JODIE!!
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Not bad Maloney for a first outing. You might be whipping the 6010 a little hard but that will fix itself over time, especially doing anything open root. You have the right idea with laying beads on beads on beads. Best way to learn. If you access to some angle iron, I'd recommend doing the same thing in the bottom of a make shift v groove to start assimilating a fillet weld. Looks like you could handle it. Don't be afraid to turn your amps down and go slow if you're just starting out.

Again, nice work! Horizontal, vertical, and overhead next :)
ryanjames170
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Ryan_82 wrote:Not bad Maloney for a first outing. You might be whipping the 6010 a little hard but that will fix itself over time, especially doing anything open root. You have the right idea with laying beads on beads on beads. Best way to learn. If you access to some angle iron, I'd recommend doing the same thing in the bottom of a make shift v groove to start assimilating a fillet weld. Looks like you could handle it. Don't be afraid to turn your amps down and go slow if you're just starting out.

Again, nice work! Horizontal, vertical, and overhead next :)

what he said..

also get yourself some other types and brands of rods and see how they compare to what you have now and get some bigger rods as well.. if you have the amps to run them..
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RM Fab & Products

Lincoln Invertec V300 pro
Miller 54D Wire Feeder
Miller 2E DC Welder Generator
Everlast Power IMIG 200
Everlast Power ARC 200ST
Klutch Plasma 275i Plasma Cutter
Hobard/Smith Oxy Torch using propane.
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they don't look bad from here. What brand rod are you using and what machine?
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Mike
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1220, welcome to the forum.
M J Mauer Andover, Ohio

Linoln A/C 225
Everlast PA 200
Maloney1220
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That was Lincoln Excalibur that's all the school supplies
The machine is a Miller sycrowave 250. Thanks for the comments fellas!!
ryanjames170
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Maloney1220 wrote:That was Lincoln Excalibur that's all the school supplies
The machine is a Miller sycrowave 250. Thanks for the comments fellas!!

there about the best you can get i would also get some Lincoln 7018AC or hobart ones to play with too..

buy avoid the Lincoln Millennium ARC E7018.. not good rods and take alot of AMPS to run by far 15-20A over just about everything else and are very prone to flux cracking
Welder/Fitter
RM Fab & Products

Lincoln Invertec V300 pro
Miller 54D Wire Feeder
Miller 2E DC Welder Generator
Everlast Power IMIG 200
Everlast Power ARC 200ST
Klutch Plasma 275i Plasma Cutter
Hobard/Smith Oxy Torch using propane.
Maloney1220
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ryanjames170 wrote:
Maloney1220 wrote:That was Lincoln Excalibur that's all the school supplies
The machine is a Miller sycrowave 250. Thanks for the comments fellas!!

there about the best you can get i would also get some Lincoln 7018AC or hobart ones to play with too..

buy avoid the Lincoln Millennium ARC E7018.. not good rods and take alot of AMPS to run by far 15-20A over just about everything else and are very prone to flux cracking
Thanks for the intro. Any idea about the Hobart rods??
Maloney1220
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Ryan_82 wrote:Not bad Maloney for a first outing. You might be whipping the 6010 a little hard but that will fix itself over time, especially doing anything open root. You have the right idea with laying beads on beads on beads. Best way to learn. If you access to some angle iron, I'd recommend doing the same thing in the bottom of a make shift v groove to start assimilating a fillet weld. Looks like you could handle it. Don't be afraid to turn your amps down and go slow if you're just starting out.

Again, nice work! Horizontal, vertical, and overhead next :)
We're working on v groove fillets next week. I've got the up hill and horizontal 7018 down but man 6010 uphill is a bitch
PeteM
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6010 uphill is a PITA but it pushes your ability to place the arc and control the pool to the next level. Just remember to move your whole wrist, no flicking.

edit: Also nice work on the padding. You can see progress across the plate to where you achieved a smooth, consistent movement through the weld.
ryanjames170
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Maloney1220 wrote:
ryanjames170 wrote:
Maloney1220 wrote:That was Lincoln Excalibur that's all the school supplies
The machine is a Miller sycrowave 250. Thanks for the comments fellas!!

there about the best you can get i would also get some Lincoln 7018AC or hobart ones to play with too..

buy avoid the Lincoln Millennium ARC E7018.. not good rods and take alot of AMPS to run by far 15-20A over just about everything else and are very prone to flux cracking
Thanks for the intro. Any idea about the Hobart rods??

Hobart rods i would say are on par or close to lincoln rods as far a how they have run and what not.. one thing i can say with them is there way easier to get then lincoln.. in my aria to get a decent price on Lincoln rods you have to buy 50lbs at a time.. but hobart on the other hand there are like 3 stores around here that sell them at good prices.. i got 5lbs of 5/32 7014 tonight at like 12.99 IIRC but the lincoln stuff would of been like $16.99 or so for a simular amount of a rod. you mileage may vary how ever.

as far as Rods go i have ran Lincoln, Hobart, pro-star, and Firepower.. in 6010, 6011, 6013, 7014 and 7018.. i like the Lincoln and Hobart the most.. prostars are decent and cheapish.. firepower are not worth it unless you get them cheap like i do.. there not bad rods just nothing special either, ive heard ESAB is good stuff but ive yet to see any place outside of online selling them though.
Welder/Fitter
RM Fab & Products

Lincoln Invertec V300 pro
Miller 54D Wire Feeder
Miller 2E DC Welder Generator
Everlast Power IMIG 200
Everlast Power ARC 200ST
Klutch Plasma 275i Plasma Cutter
Hobard/Smith Oxy Torch using propane.
Maloney1220
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PeteM wrote:6010 uphill is a PITA but it pushes your ability to place the arc and control the pool to the next level. Just remember to move your whole wrist, no flicking.

edit: Also nice work on the padding. You can see progress across the plate to where you achieved a smooth, consistent movement through the weld.
Thanks for the infro Pete! I try to keep analyzing the puddle to see what it's doing and in return make slight adjustments. Once it looks right try to keep it that way. What a help jodies tips and tricks have been. It was way easier going in knowing what to look for, now it's just a matter of burning those movements in my brain. I'll keep taking pics as I go thanks again for the input
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Maloney1220 wrote:
Ryan_82 wrote:Not bad Maloney for a first outing. You might be whipping the 6010 a little hard but that will fix itself over time, especially doing anything open root. You have the right idea with laying beads on beads on beads. Best way to learn. If you access to some angle iron, I'd recommend doing the same thing in the bottom of a make shift v groove to start assimilating a fillet weld. Looks like you could handle it. Don't be afraid to turn your amps down and go slow if you're just starting out.

Again, nice work! Horizontal, vertical, and overhead next :)
We're working on v groove fillets next week. I've got the up hill and horizontal 7018 down but man 6010 uphill is a bitch
I've found with those snycrowave machines, the 6010 is prone to a lot of arc blow going uphill, at least with open root pipe so I get what you're saying. Still, it's a good thing to learn to accommodate and I promise it will start clicking if you stick with it. A lot of codes call for vertical 6010 so press on man. I think you'll like the fillet welds- easier than trying to make straight lines on a blank piece once you learn how to make a uniform bead. Good luck Maloney!
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