Stick Welding Tips, Certification tests, machines, projects
ryanjames170
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    Sun Sep 25, 2016 12:46 pm
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christiankeith90 wrote:Thank you Poland308! I got out again today and ran some 7018 and 6011. The 7018 all had porosity and still having the same problems with 6011. I just now saw your post though. I was only running the 6011 on 95 amps. For the 7018 I don't know why I'm having porosity problems. I may just get a different stuck machine all together.

that is realy weird you are getting that with the 7018.. what brand of rod are you running again? and how old are they?

you might need to but seems kinda odd but who knows for sure with out some lab like testing.. id say if your looking at a second machine for stick i recamend the AHP160ST.. will be less of a upfront cost and dose realy good with anything ive thrown at it.
Welder/Fitter
RM Fab & Products

Lincoln Invertec V300 pro
Miller 54D Wire Feeder
Miller 2E DC Welder Generator
Everlast Power IMIG 200
Everlast Power ARC 200ST
Klutch Plasma 275i Plasma Cutter
Hobard/Smith Oxy Torch using propane.
christiankeith90
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    Mon Sep 12, 2016 8:59 am

They are Lincoln Electric 7018 rods. I bought them a few months ago. I bought some Lincoln Electric 6013 from the same place on the same day and they run fine. I was looking at getting a Hobart LX235, anybody run one of those?
Poland308
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    Thu Sep 10, 2015 8:45 pm
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    Iowa

7018 porosity is usually extreme contamination I.E. water or oil. Or arc length. Long arc it and you will get porosity. Try to whip and pause too fast or to far and you will get porosity. Your shielding gas is created from the burning of the flux on the rod so if you whip to fast you end up arcing outside of the gas zone. Try running the rods without any whiting action. Just drag it slow and steady. You can never hold totally still so even if you try you will have a small weave pattern. That is the best way to get a smooth bead with clean edges that's even width. Practiceing padding beads like Jody says helps you to get concistant beads. Because your focusing on doing the same thing over and over it allows your brain to start to see subtle diferances.
I have more questions than answers

Josh
christiankeith90
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    Mon Sep 12, 2016 8:59 am

Yeah I've been trying to hold a close arc and not use any manipulation. Maybe I need to get some new rods. I don't have a rod oven, but I tried to stick the rod to my table and get steam to come out (a trick taught to me by an old welder) but nothing came out after 5-6 seconds. So I guess these rods don't have moisture in them but who knows.
ryanjames170
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    Sun Sep 25, 2016 12:46 pm
  • Location:
    Wisconsin

christiankeith90 wrote:Yeah I've been trying to hold a close arc and not use any manipulation. Maybe I need to get some new rods. I don't have a rod oven, but I tried to stick the rod to my table and get steam to come out (a trick taught to me by an old welder) but nothing came out after 5-6 seconds. So I guess these rods don't have moisture in them but who knows.

if i was you and your on 220V power and got the amps.. get some 5/32 7018 and see what they do.. perhaps there is something funky going on with the welder and pushing it up on amps might get the thing to rear is ugly head in a more dramatic way..

i i would also try pushing the amps up so that as your dragging the rod along you can feel the flux dragging on the steel and evan braking off.. what i usaly do..

but also try some difrent rods.. get one of those hobart 1 lbs cartons.. go over to Orilly auto parts.. get some firepower ones.. i know there not super scocum but i do know they run..
Welder/Fitter
RM Fab & Products

Lincoln Invertec V300 pro
Miller 54D Wire Feeder
Miller 2E DC Welder Generator
Everlast Power IMIG 200
Everlast Power ARC 200ST
Klutch Plasma 275i Plasma Cutter
Hobard/Smith Oxy Torch using propane.
christiankeith90
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    Mon Sep 12, 2016 8:59 am

I'll get some new rods and try that. I know you can run 7018 on AC or dcep but what do the structural guys and pipeline welders run it on?
PeteM
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    Sat Dec 03, 2016 11:28 am
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    Pittsburgh

DCEP is typical for 7018 on structural and pipe. For 1/8 rods I like to run them at 120-125. A nice clean with the grinder to prep the metal is always a good idea.You don't have to dig in, just get rid of any crud. Slag,mill scale, dirt, rust, grease, oil, or any other boogered up stuff is not good. The arc length should not be greater than the diameter of the rod, so 1/8 or less for 1/8 rod.

Stick is simple but can be difficult. Once you get it though, it's great.
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