Tips for rookie arc welder

farmwelder · Sun Dec 06, 2009 10:31 pm

Just picked up a Lincoln Ranger 225 for the farm. 1/0 cable for work and stinger (90ft total)
Bought some 6010,6011,7014 and 7018 1/8 rods and 6013 3/32
Mostly for farm impliments, small projects with 1/8-1/4 steel. Occasionally some 1/2 inch.

I have not tried AC but have tried DC- and DC+..... any ideas why I seem to get a better bead and in general find it easier to use DC-.
Can someone offer some basic guidance on which/when to use (AC/DC+/DC-)

I found 7014 to be easiest to weld with.....any reason this could not be my "all purpose rod" for most projects/repairs? ie any disadvantages

Have not tried the 7018...did not want to open the package.....do i need a "rod oven" to store these things in once opened?

Should I have any other rods on hand?

Any tips/tricks, suggestions would be appreciated. Any practice exercises would be appreciated.. I have some scrap to work with.....

robbee · Mon Dec 07, 2009 2:18 am

i just finished a little ten day program at a local college in arc welding and got AWS certified in vertical and overhead fillet and groove welds. i didnt know til my teacher told me that on DC+ (reverse polarity) you will get deeper penetration. the metal you are welding will be hotter than your electrode if im right. on DC- (straight polarity), you will be adding more filler metal and you wont have as deep of penetration. i havent used AC much. im still kind of new to stick welding so you may not take anything i say. when i was using 1/8" 6010's and 7018's on 3/8" mild steel, i just set my welder on DC+ and had the amperage on around 90. i hope this will help you out some. most of the men on here are far better welders than i am and theyre tips on here have helped me out

farmwelder · Mon Dec 07, 2009 9:28 pm

thanks for the info.

rod burna · Mon Dec 07, 2009 10:46 pm

each type of electrode (rod) has a preffered setting to run on, your 7018's are going to like dc+ best wont run well at all on dc- and in a pinch can run on ac, however your 7014's actually favor ac and so on. if you end up 6010 is a DC+ rod that shouldnt really be used any other way. and your 6013's will like ac the best. there isnt one specific polarity that all rods should run on or that would be better than the other it all depends on the AWS classification of the electrode. Also, if you want to crack open your 7018's my advice would be to only buy them in small quantities if you dont weld much but if you keep them nice and dry say in a tupper ware container they can keep pretty well, it also wouldnt hurt to get some silica gel packs (those little "do not eat" packets in your beef jerky) to throw in with them because they will help to pick up the moisture from the air that your rods otherwise might. hope this helps!

robbee · Tue Dec 08, 2009 2:31 am

im glad there are alot of better thinkers than i am out there. ive never thought of using those little packets of silica to put in my rod cans. i also appreciate the useful info. ive learned alot from you men on here

farmwelder · Tue Dec 08, 2009 9:56 pm

thanks again for the commments. this is useful stuff. Started experimenting with the different rods.

rod burna · Wed Dec 09, 2009 9:56 am

no problem fella's glad to help!

jwmacawful · Fri Aug 13, 2010 3:05 pm

i got two tips for you
#1 never use 6013
#2 buy a copy of, "farm arc welding" by lincoln. everything you need to know is right there.

jwmacawful · Fri Aug 13, 2010 3:07 pm

put the little cans of silica to keep my rods dry? now that's the best idea i've heard in a long, long, long time!! that's why these forums are so helpful! thanks!!

dav · Sun Sep 05, 2010 2:44 pm

you never knew of putting those gell packs in a rod container? I also put some in my tackle box so the big hooks that ive used for ever wont rust as easy. also i think 7018 rods are best ever, but thats because thats how i learned to weld with first- u can get some smooth as baby bottom beads on those.

ZanderJay · Sun Oct 10, 2010 10:47 pm

It is better for you know the classification of rods so you know how to use them. It will then follow with your knowledge whether you need to use a rod oven or not. With this new knowledge, you are then not afraid of opening your package.

joseph.mowery · Wed Feb 09, 2011 9:50 pm

Check out page 7 in the miller pamplet at

http://www.millerwelds.com/pdf/guidelines_smaw.pdf

Ultralow787 · Sun May 01, 2011 1:20 pm

Lot's of good replies here!
Is there a place to obtain those silica packs other than scrounging them from electronic items we purchase?
Does anyone have any ideas or plans for building a DIY rod oven? I saw some good things on another post, but thought I heard a long time ago about making a metal box and installing a 100 watt light bulb inside to keep it warm? A small toaster oven would work, but with the lack of insulation, it would be costly to operate on a continuous basis.

S..Huff..X4 · Sun May 01, 2011 10:50 pm

hey fellow welder I have not heard any of our brothers comment on the 6010 to much so here goes.......Your on the farm correct well you deal with rust, grease, oil and many other elements. I also love 7014 its a fast fill fast freeze rod that burns hotter and deposits alot more material you can weld in all positions with it as well. But as I started, on the farm you need deep penetration and may not have access to clean metal. So I would, if I were you get used to the 6010 run it dcrp and keep it handy its a pain for first timers but the weld is deep and will hold up when you need it most.....I may not have answerd all of your question but I hope I added insight

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