[GWD]

From his signature, jpence38 is a professional weldor. As such, his contribution and opinions must be seriously considered. However, misconstruing someone's intent and creating conflict where none exists is unacceptable.

He and I really have no difference as far as the Lincoln welders are concerned. I, too, would recommend them for most applications. Some drawbacks were pointed out as well as some positives that may or may not be a factor in your decision.

If it had not been for a perceived need I'd still be using the Lincoln AC/DC for the farm projects. Both Lincolns have been put into storage after experiencing the quality of the PowerArc 200 welding abilities so you can evaluate that information as you will. Who knows, maybe Jim would do the same if he experienced the machine - maybe not.

[kermdawg]

The hell are you doin bro. You come on here and the first thing you do is start a fight? Lol just kidin. <---see the smiley?

I own a lincoln ac225. Im 25 and its probably as old as I am. I bought it off an old hand at work(I think the guy is like 60 or somethin) for 50 dollars american. Cleaned it up and put a new stinger on it and it welds great. Needs a new work clamp but it still works for the time bein. Its a great little machine around the house. I built a welding table and some other things, and it holds up great. The limited amp selection tends to bumm me out, but like I said-I spent 50 bucks on it.

Personally, I would not buy an ac stick welder, or an ac/dc unit like the 225/125 lincoln ac unit that doesn't have infinite amperage adjustment on it. While around 450-500 dollars is a decent price, one might consider this unit-The Hobart Stickmate LX235AC/160DC. Obviously for one, the amperage for both ac and dc is higher. Secondly, it has infinite adjustment in 1 amp increments. This really gets my eye. Thirdly, the price-499, but usually on sale for around 450-the same price as the Lincoln. Hobart is a reliable name in welding and welding products. They are also made in America.

The other side of the argument-For one, I do not own this machine nor have I ever used one. I would really like to own one and use one, but alas I have not. Perhaps someone else can post some reviews/experiences. I dont know how it will stand up to the Lincoln.

Something else to consider with the everlast-the inverter's portability factor. Much easier to transport. Also, something that hasn't been mentioned I dont believe-the arc characteristics of the inverter are far superior to the transformer, both in ac and dc. You probably wouldn't notice in when you first start out, but its alot differant welding on a transformer than a rectifier.

The last thing I would consider is this-In the future, you will almost definately want to move on to some differant forms of welding too. You can get a machine that will do stick AND tig welding, all in one machine. Of course they cost significantly more, but it would be much cheaper than buying too seperate machines. Many even come with a plasma cutter as well. So yuo can spend 500 dollars on a stick machine, or 1000 dollars on a stick/tig machine. I would spend the extra money if it was me.

You get what you pay for these days. Everlast hasn't really been around long enough to determine any kind of reliability, service life or anything like that. I think it would be a bit of a gamble to buy one if it was me. That being said, I'm broke and money talks these days. As much as I would love to buy American, I simply can't afford it. Albertsons is literally TWICE as expensive as Walmart around here for grocerys. Lincoln is alot more than an Everlast. Nissan and Hyundai are made in American (allegedly). Ford, Dodge and GM are most made out of the country. If any of that has any bearing on you (which now a days I'm not sure if it should or shouldnt-see the Nissan/Hyundai remark), than there ya go.

Lastly, how long are you planning on owning the machine? The rest of your life, pass on to your kids/grandkids? A lincoln would almost certainly last that long. Then again, you may not dig welding like you think you will. Its definately not for everyone. The everlast would be less of an investment if you decide you don't like it. On the other hand, lincoln and miller welders hold their value exceedingly well. You can buy 20 year old machines for almost as much as you can buy them new. Everlast? Dont think so.

Hope I gave you some things to think about.

[jpence38]

GWD,
Obviously there was a little misunderstanding concerning the context of your statements. I do apologize if I offended anyone. Don is a big boy and I'm sure he will make the decision that is best for his needs. We all know that there is plenty of information out here if someone does their due diligence.

[sschefer]

O.K. I'm not into kissing men or asses.. Now that was supposed to be funny... No, Jim I don't think you're a an ass, a man, yes, so no kisses, sorry.

There's no doubt that Everalast has some product delivery issues. My guess is that they don't order product until pre-sales cover the costs. That's not an unusual business tactic in today's internet sales market. They do have brick and mortar operations in the U.S. and Canada and I'm fortunate to have one nearby. I've always had either Lincoln or Miller products but the Everlast P-250EX was my first inverter experience. I've had some issues with it but nothing I couldn't work through. The price is what lured me in. I had a hard time justifying a Dynasty 350 at nearly 7500.00 when I already had a Lincoln Precision Tig 225 that was also one hell of a stick welder.

Now that I've learned the nuances of an inverter I have my eye on a Miller Dynasty 350 again but this time I know that it's what I want and need for the type of work I'll be doing for the next three years at least.

If the question remains if a Everlast is worth a try, then I'd say yes but you'll likely want something more mainstream in the future.

[genesis]

Hi Guys. I'm the OP.

All I wanted was a simple, no frills, inexpensive welder, that I can play with for awhile, and then maybe build one or two projects. After that, the thing will probably just sit and collect dust like so many of my power tools (toys), that I seldom use (But they sure come in handy sometimes). But there are so many different kinds of welders, and manufactures, and specifications, and colors. Mig, Tig, Stick, plasma cutters, Multi's, generator, AC, DC, volts, amps, transformer, inverter, Red, Blue, Green, Yellow, etc. My problem is I'm not knowledgeable enough to understand the specs on a particular welder. It's all kinda “Greek” to me. It would be like you guys reading the specs on a laptop (member, I'z da compooter guy).

For instance. Below are just some the specs on the Toshiba Satellite Laptop Model: C655D-S5126
$350 at Best Buy. (By the way, for most applications, and within certain parameters, I recommend this model to my learners. It's inexpensive, reliable, and it gets the job done.)

Processor Brand: AMD
Processor Platform: VISION
Processor AMD E-Series
Processor Speed: 1.5GHz
Battery Type: 6-cell lithium-ion
Display Type: Widescreen TFT-LCD with TruBrite technology (1366 x 768)
Cache Memory: 512KB on die Level 2
System Memory (RAM): 3GB
System Memory (RAM) Expandable To: 8GB
Type of Memory (RAM): DDR3
Hard Drive Type: SATA
Optical Drive: Double-layer DVD±RW/CD-RW
Optical Drive Speeds: 6x DVD+R DL; 6x DVD-R DL; 8x8x8 DVD+RW; 8x6x8 DVD-RW; 5x DVD-RAM; 24x24x24 CD-RW
Direct-Disc Labeling: No
Digital Media Reader or Slots: Yes, digital media card reader
Graphics: AMD Radeon HD 6310
Video Memory: 384MB - 1459MB (dynamically allocated shared)
TV Tuner: No
MPEG: Yes
Modem: None
Networking: Built-in 10/100 Ethernet (RJ-45 connector)
Wireless Networking: Wireless-B+G+N
Bluetooth Enabled: No
S-Video Outputs: None
PCMCIA Slots: None
USB 2.0 Port: 2
IEEE 1394 FireWire Ports: None
Parallel Ports: None
Game Ports: None
Pointing Device: Touchpad with multitouch control
HDMI Output: No
Blu-ray Player: No
Graphics Card: AMD Radeon HD 6310

Pretty much Greek to ya, right. Well that's the way welder specs seem to me. “Greek”. I liked the Everlast Powerarc200 because it doesn't have a lot of knobs and switches. It seems to be pretty much "plug and play".

But then "kermdawg" got me think'n (sometimes a dangerous endever for me) bout multi-function welders. (Shame on you kermdawg.) So I found this multi-function welder manufactured by "Lotos". It's their LTPDC2000 Pilot Arc IGBT 50A plasma cutter with 200A tig/stick welder with Pedal for $799. http://www.uwelding.com/page/page/5348872.htm I assume "1GBT" means it an inverter as opposed to a transformer. But everyone and their brother seems to make multi-function welders. And if I go this route I gotta deal with those darn "Greek" specs again. Plus it's got more technology/functions to learn about. (But that could be a good thing.) Everlast makes a whole slew of multi-function units. http://www.everlastgenerators.com/produ ... ry-61.html. If I set $800 as my upper spending limit, can I get something decent? Or is a multi-function unit to much for a rookie? Do I need all the features of a Multi? What say you all. Plain and simple, or multi-function for this rookie wannabe?

dON <><

[jpence38]

O.K. I'm not into kissing men or asses.. Now that was supposed to be funny... No, Jim I don't think you're a an ass, a man, yes, so no kisses, sorry.

Come on, just one kiss, Please.

[jpence38]

Don,
If you are going to purchase a multi-functional machine, or any inverter style machine, you definitely want one with IGBT (insulated gate bipolar transistor) technology. And most preferrably from a reputable IGBTmanufacturer, like Siemens for example. The same as your RAM memory. Don't want to go cheap in that area. Stay away from MOSFET (metal-oxide semiconductor field-effect transistor) machines. You may be familiar with this stuff since MOSFET is used in your computers on your motherboard for example to generate CPU Voltage, Memory Voltage, AGP Voltage etc. They are bacically voltage converters. As for that "Lotos" brand, I would probably stay away from that one. If you are gonna go with a foreign make, I would stick with the Everlast brand. As GWD was saying in a previous post, you cant go wrong with the price. And if it's not gonna see much consistent use, that is the way to go. About the plasma cutter, if you build, then you will cut. And there is no better way to cut than with plasma.

[GWD]

Once again, jpence38 is right on target.

The multi-unit route may not be the best for your anticipated uses. From my observances, multi-unit anything (stereos/cd/tape player/equalizer, off the shelf computers, etc.) tend to cut corners on one or more of the sub-units to keep prices down. If one component goes south then you can hope to limp along as long as the other units aren't affected.

In your terms, I build my own computers and don't cut corners. That way every component is top quality and designed for the job it does. My processor cost three times what the Toshiba laptop cost and my video card was double the price. Not cheap but reliable and highly functional. Although the computer is a multi-unit, each unit is of the highest quality and able to stand alone as far serviceability and replacement.

Look at Jim's list of equipment in his signature. He is a pro and uses dedicated machines for a reason. He would be better to elaborate on why he chose that direction.

On the subject of metal cutting, an O/A torch will do the job but it is brutal unless in the hands of an expert. However, you could cut and weld with it and be done with this whole discussion. It is very necessary to heat and bend metal so should be part of your list of purchases.

I went with a plasma cutter and my cutting has dramatically improved. Far less grinding, far fewer fit-up problems, less warpage, and so on. They do come at a hefty price.

BTW, Everlast offers substantial discounts if you purchase more than one unit from them. Call and personally talk to the owner if you decide to go in that direction. (No, I'm not an employee - just a satisfied owner. )

[genesis]

Nice shop GWD. My shop is like my "man cave". They're both in need of some TLC. I thought about having a woman come over and do a bit of cleaning, but I think it's cheaper to get married. But then I couldn't shoot out of my front window. I have a target range set up at 25, 50 and 100 yards, and I shoot right from my living room. I have a 40 X 60 pole barn which is full of my brothers junk right now (boat, riding mower, trailers, etc). His cabin and garage were broken in to and his ATV was stolen.

OK. I'm sticking with a single function unit, and it will probably be the Everlast PowerARC200. If/when I need to do any cutting, I'll get a cheap portable 4 inch band saw like this one http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200308967. Or should I be looking at something different?
Also getting this welding helmet http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... _200311850 based on this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUhD63fmB-k

One last question. I have a Coleman 5000 watt generator. http://salestores.com/colema34.html Does this have enough juice to run the PowerARC 200? Or should I not run an inverter type welder using a generator? I have a separate 50 AMP outlet in my pole barn which I hook the generator to when the power goes out. Do I have to be concerned with all this V1 phase stuff when plugging the welder in to the 50 AMP outlet?

Thanks guys (especially GWD and jpence38). You've really helped me muddle through all of this. I can't help but think that there must be a whole bunch of guys out there who are thinking of getting a welder to play with. Your input here would help them immensely. Your experience, knowledge, and most of all, patience with us rookies, is invaluable. Keep up the good work.

dON <><

[jpence38]

Don,
The 5000 watts is not enough to run that machine. 8800 watts would be bare minimum needed for 40 amps at 220 volts. I think that machine draws about 40 amps at start-up on 220 volts. You will need to use the 50 amp receptacle in your barn.

[GWD]

>The Northern Tool helmet should work just fine. Some folks like the Harbor Freight one as well. The auto darkening feature, large field of view, and adjustable shade are worthy details. It is one item that is really personal and is the most likely to be upgraded. I have age old helmets with the tiny lens, stepped up to a Hobart auto darkening with a larger lens, and ended up with a Miller Elite. If you think you might want something more you just as well start off with a good quality helmet. Your eyes will thank you.

>Have not used the Northern Tool bandsaw. An O/A setup would be much more versatile but MUCH more expensive. You are going to want to heat metal and not always cut straight lines. $100 towards a new torch would be better spent. AirGas is having a sale right now on some of their Radnor (house brand) and Victor outfits. You may have a AirGas site nearby. (No, I don't work for them either. )

http://www.airgas.com/home.aspx

>More portable power is better than less. I have a 12K watt generator for use in the field. jpence 38 has the correct advice on the size needed to run the PowerArc if it indeed draws 40 amps. A call to Everlast tech support or a post on their forum would confirm this.
Volts x Amps = Watts is the simple formula.

[genesis]

jpence38: Thanks for the info about the generator.

GWD:
What do you mean by "$100 towards a new torch would be better spent." The Everlast internet page for the PowerPro 200 indicates that a "Carbon Arc Torch" is available as an accessory. When I click on the "Carbon Arc Torch" link it takes me to a page with various cutting torches. http://www.everlastgenerators.com/Plasm ... orches.php Is the one for $99.99 the one you're referring to? What other accessories/consumables would I need for cutting? Or are you referring to something entirely different? Don't they make "cutting rods" for use with a stick welder?

dON <><

[GWD]

jpence38: Thanks for the info about the generator.

GWD:
What do you mean by "$100 towards a new torch would be better spent." The Everlast internet page for the PowerPro 200 indicates that a "Carbon Arc Torch" is available as an accessory. When I click on the "Carbon Arc Torch" link it takes me to a page with various cutting torches. http://www.everlastgenerators.com/Plasm ... orches.php Is the one for $99.99 the one you're referring to? What other accessories/consumables would I need for cutting? Or are you referring to something entirely different? Don't they make "cutting rods" for use with a stick welder?

dON <><

I meant an oxygen/acetylene (O/A) torch set. Not having used a carbon arc torch prevents me from recommending them or not. Plenty of experienced weldors on here can fill you in on that. I've also never used cutting rods for what I"ve done. Well, except for turning up the amps on a 3/32" 6011 rod and burning away lousy welds in poor access places.

When working with metal you'll have to deal with a method to heat the metal for bending / welding and cut a variety of shapes. O/A works well for that with carbon steel.

[morgaj1]

So, Genesis, what did you end up getting?

[genesis]

So, Genesis, what did you end up getting?

I bought a welding helmet ($34.95 on sale at Harbor Freight), but no welder yet. I do like that PowerArc 200. But I hear they now charge for shipping. That could be a deal breaker. If I could get it for $300 "delivered", I might just spring for it. I also like the Longevity Stickweld 250 which I can get for about the same price.

Don <><

[ogorir]

just make an offer. I got my I-MIG200 for $675 shipped (650+$25 shipping). also, they do big deals on pre-orders. contrary to what GWD said, I wasn't offered any discount for already owning an everlast welder when I called for a price check on a 250ex.

and, FWIW, I wouldn't ever buy a transformer stick welder again. even with the rudimentary stick outputs on the I-MIG, it runs SO much smoother than the old craftsman 250 dual-range I've got, which runs pretty smooth on the low range as far as buzz boxes go.

the biggest benefit to the inverter is it's QUIET. like... hardly know its on. I've got a WP-9 I've been using for scratch start on it and that's even quieter, all you can hear is the shielding gas. works alright, the voltage is about double what it should be for TIG, so the 31A minimum setting is still WAY too hot for 20ga. welds 16ga on up to 1/4" fine, though.

I'd stay away from longevity just because of the douche-ness that started the company. the owner of longevity is the brother or brother in law(there's a thread on the everlast forum that spells out the details) of the guy who owns everlast, who fired him a few years back, and now he just copies the everlast welders. just not someone I want to be supporting financially.

[genesis]

I'm the OP. See this post concerning the welder I finally ended up with, and why.
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=2&t=1395

Don <><

[Otto Nobedder]

genesis,

I saw that post this morning and had to smile. Twenty something years ago I "chose" my first comprehensive set of mechanic's tools in a similar fashion.

The machine you have will be more than adequate for a home shop. There are, of course, certain compromises, but I think you'll be happy.

Don't even look at carbon-arc cutting; you don't have enough DC power to pull it off. You'll probably never need it anyway. (Oh, and it requires a compressor with a lot of CFM.)

You can do most of the cutting a home shop will ever need with a 14" Harbor Freight chop saw and a good quality (I like DeWalt for price vs. toughness) 4 1/2" grinder and some cut-off wheels.

If you get serious, an oxy-acetylene torch (as mentioned above) is the most versitile tool you can add. Don't go cheap-o here, or you'll be frustrated. The Radnor brand is an excellent choice for home/small shop use. It is essentially identical to the Victor (expired patents?) to the point the parts are interchangeable. With practice, you can make complex cuts very accurately, heat metal for annealing or forming, and pre-heat castings for welding. Consider the cost of the bottles, though.

Any DC capable machine can also do scratch-start TIG, if your interest grows. Of course, that's another bottle, etc.

Just pay attention to the duty cycle--It's only 100% to 100A AC and 65A DC. It'll last a lot longer if you don't overheat it.

Steve

[kermdawg]

I cant think of anything you -cant- cut if you have a cutting torch (ferrous metals) and a bandsaw (portaband) /chop saw/cold saw/peanut grinder (pick one, they all have their advantages and disadvantages). My pick is the portaband, due to the fact it -can- cut anything, albeit not the fastest, can be among the most accurate(hell of alot more accurate than a cutting torch), and can cut ferrous and non-ferrous metals.