Stick Welding Tips, Certification tests, machines, projects
GWD
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>The Northern Tool helmet should work just fine. Some folks like the Harbor Freight one as well. The auto darkening feature, large field of view, and adjustable shade are worthy details. It is one item that is really personal and is the most likely to be upgraded. I have age old helmets with the tiny lens, stepped up to a Hobart auto darkening with a larger lens, and ended up with a Miller Elite. If you think you might want something more you just as well start off with a good quality helmet. Your eyes will thank you.

>Have not used the Northern Tool bandsaw. An O/A setup would be much more versatile but MUCH more expensive. You are going to want to heat metal and not always cut straight lines. $100 towards a new torch would be better spent. AirGas is having a sale right now on some of their Radnor (house brand) and Victor outfits. You may have a AirGas site nearby. (No, I don't work for them either. :lol: )

http://www.airgas.com/home.aspx

>More portable power is better than less. I have a 12K watt generator for use in the field. jpence 38 has the correct advice on the size needed to run the PowerArc if it indeed draws 40 amps. A call to Everlast tech support or a post on their forum would confirm this.
Volts x Amps = Watts is the simple formula.
genesis
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    Mon Jan 31, 2011 3:19 pm

jpence38: Thanks for the info about the generator.

GWD:
What do you mean by "$100 towards a new torch would be better spent." The Everlast internet page for the PowerPro 200 indicates that a "Carbon Arc Torch" is available as an accessory. When I click on the "Carbon Arc Torch" link it takes me to a page with various cutting torches. http://www.everlastgenerators.com/Plasm ... orches.php Is the one for $99.99 the one you're referring to? What other accessories/consumables would I need for cutting? Or are you referring to something entirely different? Don't they make "cutting rods" for use with a stick welder?

dON <><
GWD
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genesis wrote:jpence38: Thanks for the info about the generator.

GWD:
What do you mean by "$100 towards a new torch would be better spent." The Everlast internet page for the PowerPro 200 indicates that a "Carbon Arc Torch" is available as an accessory. When I click on the "Carbon Arc Torch" link it takes me to a page with various cutting torches. http://www.everlastgenerators.com/Plasm ... orches.php Is the one for $99.99 the one you're referring to? What other accessories/consumables would I need for cutting? Or are you referring to something entirely different? Don't they make "cutting rods" for use with a stick welder?

dON <><
I meant an oxygen/acetylene (O/A) torch set. Not having used a carbon arc torch prevents me from recommending them or not. Plenty of experienced weldors on here can fill you in on that. I've also never used cutting rods for what I"ve done. Well, except for turning up the amps on a 3/32" 6011 rod and burning away lousy welds in poor access places.

When working with metal you'll have to deal with a method to heat the metal for bending / welding and cut a variety of shapes. O/A works well for that with carbon steel.
morgaj1
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    Sat Jun 25, 2011 4:23 pm

So, Genesis, what did you end up getting?
genesis
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morgaj1 wrote:So, Genesis, what did you end up getting?
I bought a welding helmet ($34.95 on sale at Harbor Freight), but no welder yet. I do like that PowerArc 200. But I hear they now charge for shipping. That could be a deal breaker. If I could get it for $300 "delivered", I might just spring for it. I also like the Longevity Stickweld 250 which I can get for about the same price.

Don <><
ogorir
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just make an offer. I got my I-MIG200 for $675 shipped (650+$25 shipping). also, they do big deals on pre-orders. contrary to what GWD said, I wasn't offered any discount for already owning an everlast welder when I called for a price check on a 250ex.

and, FWIW, I wouldn't ever buy a transformer stick welder again. even with the rudimentary stick outputs on the I-MIG, it runs SO much smoother than the old craftsman 250 dual-range I've got, which runs pretty smooth on the low range as far as buzz boxes go.

the biggest benefit to the inverter is it's QUIET. like... hardly know its on. I've got a WP-9 I've been using for scratch start on it and that's even quieter, all you can hear is the shielding gas. works alright, the voltage is about double what it should be for TIG, so the 31A minimum setting is still WAY too hot for 20ga. welds 16ga on up to 1/4" fine, though.

I'd stay away from longevity just because of the douche-ness that started the company. the owner of longevity is the brother or brother in law(there's a thread on the everlast forum that spells out the details) of the guy who owns everlast, who fired him a few years back, and now he just copies the everlast welders. just not someone I want to be supporting financially.
genesis
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I'm the OP. See this post concerning the welder I finally ended up with, and why.
http://forum.weldingtipsandtricks.com/v ... f=2&t=1395

Don <><
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genesis,

I saw that post this morning and had to smile. Twenty something years ago I "chose" my first comprehensive set of mechanic's tools in a similar fashion.

The machine you have will be more than adequate for a home shop. There are, of course, certain compromises, but I think you'll be happy.

Don't even look at carbon-arc cutting; you don't have enough DC power to pull it off. You'll probably never need it anyway. (Oh, and it requires a compressor with a lot of CFM.)

You can do most of the cutting a home shop will ever need with a 14" Harbor Freight chop saw and a good quality (I like DeWalt for price vs. toughness) 4 1/2" grinder and some cut-off wheels.

If you get serious, an oxy-acetylene torch (as mentioned above) is the most versitile tool you can add. Don't go cheap-o here, or you'll be frustrated. The Radnor brand is an excellent choice for home/small shop use. It is essentially identical to the Victor (expired patents?) to the point the parts are interchangeable. With practice, you can make complex cuts very accurately, heat metal for annealing or forming, and pre-heat castings for welding. Consider the cost of the bottles, though.

Any DC capable machine can also do scratch-start TIG, if your interest grows. Of course, that's another bottle, etc.

Just pay attention to the duty cycle--It's only 100% to 100A AC and 65A DC. It'll last a lot longer if you don't overheat it.

Steve
kermdawg
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I cant think of anything you -cant- cut if you have a cutting torch (ferrous metals) and a bandsaw (portaband) /chop saw/cold saw/peanut grinder (pick one, they all have their advantages and disadvantages). My pick is the portaband, due to the fact it -can- cut anything, albeit not the fastest, can be among the most accurate(hell of alot more accurate than a cutting torch), and can cut ferrous and non-ferrous metals.
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