Stick Welding Tips, Certification tests, machines, projects
Farmwelding
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Well... Either way it wouldn't go in our machine for some reason. I used both the high and low side and changed the amps around and nothing went. So now all I have to do is hope we can get a DC stick welder.
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Nick
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Went out and made about 8 passes for you on AC.

1/8" 7018, old rod not in oven, welded fine from 135-150 amps AC.
135 amps for vertical up.

5/32" 7018, 150 amps AC.

Only real issue is getting it lit. Then you're golden.
"Pool cue" it for strike acuracy and to warm it up.

First welder I bought (1995) - after an oxy/acetylene that is.
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Nothing special, about 8 passes, maybe more.
2 rod sizes, flat and vertical up.
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Dave J.

Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

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Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Farmwelding
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MinnesotaDave wrote:Went out and made about 8 passes for you on AC.

1/8" 7018, old rod not in oven, welded fine from 135-150 amps AC.
135 amps for vertical up.

5/32" 7018, 150 amps AC.

Only real issue is getting it lit. Then you're golden.
"Pool cue" it for strike acuracy and to warm it up.

First welder I bought (1995) - after an oxy/acetylene that is.
image.jpeg
Nothing special, about 8 passes, maybe more.
2 rod sizes, flat and vertical up.
image.jpeg
What do you mean pool cue the electrode. Never heard that term.
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Nick
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Pool cue means to hold the rod with your other hand down low near the steel.

Gives you fine motor control of the tip so you can control it precise enough to get those rods lit and warmed up on AC.

Otherwise they will often stick and not light.
Dave J.

Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Farmwelding
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MinnesotaDave wrote:Pool cue means to hold the rod with your other hand down low near the steel.

Gives you fine motor control of the tip so you can control it precise enough to get those rods lit and warmed up on AC.

Otherwise they will often stick and not light.
That makes a lot more sense than what i thought it meant. Maybe will give it a go on Monday.
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Nick
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Farmwelding wrote:. Maybe will give it a go on Monday.
Just make sure you have a proper glove rated for stick on.
Don't ask..... ;)
Farmwelding
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AndersK wrote:
Farmwelding wrote:. Maybe will give it a go on Monday.
Just make sure you have a proper glove rated for stick on.
Don't ask..... ;)
Don't worry I know why. I accidentally grabbed one somebody had just used for ab1/2" weld with my bare hand the other day and practically melted my hand off.
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Nick
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He he , no you don't ;)
You can easily hold a used rod with a tig glove but don't pool cue with one. The radiation from the arc is strong enough to give blisters thru a tig glove without even touching any metal. :mrgreen:
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AndersK wrote:He he , no you don't ;)
You can easily hold a used rod with a tig glove but don't pool cue with one. The radiation from the arc is strong enough to give blisters thru a tig glove without even touching any metal. :mrgreen:
Really he should only do this to get it started and warmed up, and then drop his hand back to the stinger in a few seconds.

The start can be really difficult with an AC buzz box.

The Century that I pictured starts them really good on DC in comparison.

If he masters arc starts on AC with that rod, he'll laugh at the simplicity of starting on DC :D
Dave J.

Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

Syncro 350
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Thermal Arc 161 and 300
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Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Popeye the old miner
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I did some work in an old coal breaker about 40 years ago, all they had was an old ac welder, I couldn't even guess who made it, someone said Westinghouse built it back in the 30s, but no one knew for sure as there was no tag of any kind on it. Anyway they busted the shaker frame, it was made out of heavy 8 inch c channel might have been 3/8 thick or better when it was new. They called me up to do it since I'm a skinny little shit and no one else could fit under the shaker. One thing about coal...it corrodes steel like crazy...sulfuric acid eats it up and what is left is very difficult to weld with a good machine let alone an old antique buzzer from the stone age. They said just get it together so it will run til Friday and we will replace it Saturday...bullshit...I know how miners are I am one, they will keep fixin it til there is more repair weld metal than original steel.

So I got the ol thing all lined up, dogged in place, grinded somewhat shiney and turned on the beast, crawled in side and under the shaker with a handful of 6011s and a handful of 7018s. Uriah the old bird who ran the shaker told me let me know where you want it set at I will turn it where you want it. Ok I said. I fussed a bit with some 1/8 inch 6011s til it ran good and got some steel into the shallow groove I cut with the grinder then slid out and did the same on the outside and on the flanges, then went down to the other end and repeated the process. Meanwhile I heard some smartass remarks we'll find out if this kid can weld, if he can with this ol beast we'll hire the little shit. Now one thing I learned a long time ago about 7018 rods...the next size smaller 7018 will run at just about the same setting as the larger 6011. So now I'm gonna burn 3/32 7018 over top of the 6011 root I didn't have much trouble getting it going, and I will admit I thought it was gonna be a fight but they lit up pretty quick, maybe it was the coal dirt on em who knows. Anyway it stayed together and eventually after 3 or 4 years after fixing various places on both sides of the shaker once a month or so we cut it up and built a whole new shaker water bay, got a new set of cams and bullrigged the whole damn thing in place.

Got hired on full time 2 days after that first repair and never looked back. Don't ever let anyone tell you that you cant do somethin, you never know until you try it for yourself
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Popeye the old miner wrote:I did some work in an old coal breaker about 40 years ago, all they had was an old ac welder, I couldn't even guess who made it, someone said Westinghouse built it back in the 30s, but no one knew for sure as there was no tag of any kind on it. Anyway they busted the shaker frame, it was made out of heavy 8 inch c channel might have been 3/8 thick or better when it was new. They called me up to do it since I'm a skinny little shit and no one else could fit under the shaker. One thing about coal...it corrodes steel like crazy...sulfuric acid eats it up and what is left is very difficult to weld with a good machine let alone an old antique buzzer from the stone age. They said just get it together so it will run til Friday and we will replace it Saturday...bullshit...I know how miners are I am one, they will keep fixin it til there is more repair weld metal than original steel.

So I got the ol thing all lined up, dogged in place, grinded somewhat shiney and turned on the beast, crawled in side and under the shaker with a handful of 6011s and a handful of 7018s. Uriah the old bird who ran the shaker told me let me know where you want it set at I will turn it where you want it. Ok I said. I fussed a bit with some 1/8 inch 6011s til it ran good and got some steel into the shallow groove I cut with the grinder then slid out and did the same on the outside and on the flanges, then went down to the other end and repeated the process. Meanwhile I heard some smartass remarks we'll find out if this kid can weld, if he can with this ol beast we'll hire the little shit. Now one thing I learned a long time ago about 7018 rods...the next size smaller 7018 will run at just about the same setting as the larger 6011. So now I'm gonna burn 3/32 7018 over top of the 6011 root I didn't have much trouble getting it going, and I will admit I thought it was gonna be a fight but they lit up pretty quick, maybe it was the coal dirt on em who knows. Anyway it stayed together and eventually after 3 or 4 years after fixing various places on both sides of the shaker once a month or so we cut it up and built a whole new shaker water bay, got a new set of cams and bullrigged the whole damn thing in place.

Got hired on full time 2 days after that first repair and never looked back. Don't ever let anyone tell you that you cant do somethin, you never know until you try it for yourself
I LIKE that story. I have a few like it, but not quite like it, in my history. The moral stands. It's not impossible because someone says so.

Steve S
Farmwelding
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So I tried for another half an hour today and found out new combinations of swearing I have never heard. I had two and half actual beads today as well. The slag doesnt like coming off very well though. I am just going to hope and ray we get a DC stick machine sometime.
A student now but really want to weld everyday. Want to learn everything about everything. Want to become a knower of all and master of none.
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Nick
Farmwelding
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Oh and I noticed that the electrodes are actually 7018-1. Does this make a difference for what I'm trying to do?
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Nick
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Farmwelding wrote:Oh and I noticed that the electrodes are actually 7018-1. Does this make a difference for what I'm trying to do?
It does not, and what did you find when you looked up what the numbers and/or letters after the dash mean?

When I did the samples this weekend I noticed the slag would come off in large chunks, but not a full peel.

Otherwise it was about the same as normal for removal in the 135-150 amp AC range.

A little more spatter, louder, slightly unstable arc, but not too bad.
Dave J.

Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Farmwelding
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It appears that 7018-1 means that the weld is stronger at cold temperatures than a normal 7018.

Our buzz box only goes up to around 110-120 in the low range as you recommended but they are 3/32" so don't need that much anyways?

The lag on a t-joint i did required pounding and left a lot of white powder on the weld still and didn't want tor come off. The flat weld came off in small chunks as you said though. Ill keep working on it and when I get to use a 7018 on DC I'm sure I will be laughing at how easy it is. That's the way I usually learnt hings the quickest. DO it the hard way and then you'll appreciate things for what they are worth or never making the same mistake again. Stick before mig-oxy-fuel before tig. Helps put ting is perspective for me.
A student now but really want to weld everyday. Want to learn everything about everything. Want to become a knower of all and master of none.
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Nick
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Farmwelding wrote:It appears that 7018-1 means that the weld is stronger at cold temperatures than a normal 7018.

Our buzz box only goes up to around 110-120 in the low range as you recommended but they are 3/32" so don't need that much anyways?

The lag on a t-joint i did required pounding and left a lot of white powder on the weld still and didn't want tor come off. The flat weld came off in small chunks as you said though. Ill keep working on it and when I get to use a 7018 on DC I'm sure I will be laughing at how easy it is. That's the way I usually learnt hings the quickest. DO it the hard way and then you'll appreciate things for what they are worth or never making the same mistake again. Stick before mig-oxy-fuel before tig. Helps put ting is perspective for me.
You found the correct listing for -1

You will chuckle at the simplicity of DC 7018 :D
Dave J.

Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Poland308
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Depending on angle and thickness I run most 3/32 7018 between 75 and 90 amps. If there's an option I put my arc force anywhere from 3-7 depending on what I'm working on.
I have more questions than answers

Josh
Farmwelding
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Poland308 wrote:Depending on angle and thickness I run most 3/32 7018 between 75 and 90 amps. If there's an option I put my arc force anywhere from 3-7 depending on what I'm working on.
Arc force? I wish I had arc force. Hell at this point a stick welder with compass on the stock and a thing that tells time. Ever since I put the wleder in our stack with plywood walls it has made me deaf. Rattle all the live long day. Even more fun when you stick a rod. I wish I could throw $700 in o my school to get a Lincoln buzz box AC/DC. Or a Lincoln sqaurwave tig. Or preferably a stick machine that can run 6010s since we have a bunch that I'd like to use.

So if anyone has a welder, connections with a company, or a need for a tax deduction willing to donate :lol: If only someone would. Or else I'll go to the school board and ask. Maybe. Or I'll live with the AC buzzbox and donate one later when I make a bunch of money from these welding jobs I'll get skmeday
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Nick
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Poland308 wrote:Depending on angle and thickness I run most 3/32 7018 between 75 and 90 amps. If there's an option I put my arc force anywhere from 3-7 depending on what I'm working on.
True of course, but remember he is trying to use an old AC only machine - no arc force :)
Dave J.

Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
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Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
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Farmwelding wrote: Arc force? I wish I had arc force. Hell at this point a stick welder with compass on the stock and a thing that tells time. Ever since I put the wleder in our stack with plywood walls it has made me deaf. Rattle all the live long day. Even more fun when you stick a rod. I wish I could throw $700 in o my school to get a Lincoln buzz box AC/DC. Or a Lincoln sqaurwave tig. Or preferably a stick machine that can run 6010s since we have a bunch that I'd like to use.

So if anyone has a welder, connections with a company, or a need for a tax deduction willing to donate :lol: If only someone would. Or else I'll go to the school board and ask. Maybe. Or I'll live with the AC buzzbox and donate one later when I make a bunch of money from these welding jobs I'll get skmeday
Seriously, you need to start looking at what you write and get into the habit of good spelling and proper sentence structure.

This habit will do right by you your whole life.

A welder/artist down the road from me is in his early 50's.
He says he wishes he could write better and had paid attention more to it in school.
It's important to him because over the years he's lost out on getting commissioned art work due to his poor writing ability.
Dave J.

Beware of false knowledge; it is more dangerous than ignorance. ~George Bernard Shaw~

Syncro 350
Invertec v250-s
Thermal Arc 161 and 300
MM210
Dialarc
Tried being normal once, didn't take....I think it was a Tuesday.
Poleframer
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Here's my story that sort of relates, tho not welding. I did forestry work here in oregon for 25 years, most of the welding I did in that time was patching up my beat up pickup trucks (paid 4 wheelin to boot, who could ask for more). A good bit of those years was tree climbing.
In my first 2 weeks as a climber I was sent up the north umpqua to test me on those honkin Douglas firs. Some of them were over 5 foot DBH (diameter breast height) and over 100' to the first branch, one climb, on like the 3'd day was over 260 feet up. I'll admit to some knee knockin on that one, but I didnt piss my pants :). After that 95% of the climbing was a piece of cake.
Coldman
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MinnesotaDave wrote:
Farmwelding wrote: Arc force? I wish I had arc force. Hell at this point a stick welder with compass on the stock and a thing that tells time. Ever since I put the wleder in our stack with plywood walls it has made me deaf. Rattle all the live long day. Even more fun when you stick a rod. I wish I could throw $700 in o my school to get a Lincoln buzz box AC/DC. Or a Lincoln sqaurwave tig. Or preferably a stick machine that can run 6010s since we have a bunch that I'd like to use.

So if anyone has a welder, connections with a company, or a need for a tax deduction willing to donate :lol: If only someone would. Or else I'll go to the school board and ask. Maybe. Or I'll live with the AC buzzbox and donate one later when I make a bunch of money from these welding jobs I'll get skmeday
Seriously, you need to start looking at what you write and get into the habit of good spelling and proper sentence structure.

This habit will do right by you your whole life.

A welder/artist down the road from me is in his early 50's.
He says he wishes he could write better and had paid attention more to it in school.
It's important to him because over the years he's lost out on getting commissioned art work due to his poor writing ability.
I bet Braehill could learn im.
Dammit I miss Braehill - where are you brother?


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Farmwelding
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9/10 times I review. This time I didn't as you can see. My apologies I'll work on it.
A student now but really want to weld everyday. Want to learn everything about everything. Want to become a knower of all and master of none.
Instagram: @farmwelding
Nick
Popeye the old miner
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Poleframer wrote:Here's my story that sort of relates, tho not welding. I did forestry work here in oregon for 25 years, most of the welding I did in that time was patching up my beat up pickup trucks (paid 4 wheelin to boot, who could ask for more). A good bit of those years was tree climbing.
In my first 2 weeks as a climber I was sent up the north umpqua to test me on those honkin Douglas firs. Some of them were over 5 foot DBH (diameter breast height) and over 100' to the first branch, one climb, on like the 3'd day was over 260 feet up. I'll admit to some knee knockin on that one, but I didnt piss my pants :). After that 95% of the climbing was a piece of cake.
You've got brass balls my friend...I thought bein an ironworker was rough...seems easy compared to that
Popeye the old miner
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Farmwelding wrote:So I tried for another half an hour today and found out new combinations of swearing I have never heard. I had two and half actual beads today as well. The slag doesnt like coming off very well though. I am just going to hope and ray we get a DC stick machine sometime.
its been a few years since I used 7018 on AC...I do remember cranking the amps up a wee bit more than for DC... and I remember that you need to keep the end of the rod away from the steel a bit ... not saying long arc it...just don't hold it tight like you would on DC. I don't have access to an AC machine or I would experiment a bit. I'm sure you can figure it out on your own though, and when you get it down to second nature you can keep that feather in your hat and feel pretty good about yourself. Good Luck
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