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7018 basic tips

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Re: 7018 basic tips

Postby olek » Fri Jun 09, 2017 4:23 pm

Thanks Dave, I will examine, but at 115 it seem to be cooked enough. I will give a try . ( this is on relatively thin steel too, about 6 mm )

Now if one weld at 130A with arc force at 30% and dragging is not that meaning he use about 150A or more (arc force "on" permanently ?)

I did experiment undercut and a bit too much projection when using more than 120A. May be that welder is "robust" it have 108v open tension .. we use 220v here could it make a difference ?

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Re: 7018 basic tips

Postby Ruark » Fri Jun 09, 2017 9:55 pm

Use good rods. Lincoln. Lincoln Excalibur if you can get it. Are you using DC? If you're using AC, I assume your rods are 7018AC rods, not just plain 7018.

For 1/8" rods, 105-110 amps is plenty. Arc force at 50, helps prevent sticking. DON'T get in the habit of trying to solve problems by turning up current or voltage all the time. The instructor at my welding school had us run everything at the minimum recommended setting. If we couldn't do it, we figured out how, instead of just turning up everything.

Your beads show a need for more consistency, especially consistent travel speed, but also consistent arc length, angle, etc. You can pretty much drag 7018 across the metal. Do NOT weave or step if you're welding flat or horizontal. Anyway, work on consistency. That will also prevent most of your sticking. Pretend you're one of those robots on a Ford assembly line.

Focus on your puddle. Notice how if you change your angle or speed, the shape of the puddle changes slightly. It becomes narrower or wider or taller or whatever. Focus on keeping that puddle the exact, exact same size and shape as you move along. This is why so many veteran welders say things like "focus on the puddle" or "become one with the puddle." Remember, you weld with the puddle, not with the stick. Eventually you are able to react (by changing your angle or speed) to what you see the puddle doing, automatically, without really thinking about it. Focus. On. The puddle.

Restarting 7018 is much easier than what most people say. You do NOT need a file. When you finish running a bead, the INSTANT you stop welding, and we're talking a fraction of a second here, flick the molten metal off the rod. Now, you don't have to fling it clear across the street; just a very light flick will do it. But it solidifies in less than a second, so do it instantly. Before you restart, you might need to pinch off the flux sticking out past the end of the filler metal. Forget all this "scrape it on a file" crap.

Seeya.
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Re: 7018 basic tips

Postby MinnesotaDave » Fri Jun 09, 2017 11:15 pm

Ruark wrote:
For 1/8" rods, 105-110 amps is plenty. Arc force at 50, helps prevent sticking. DON'T get in the habit of trying to solve problems by turning up current or voltage all the time. The instructor at my welding school had us run everything at the minimum recommended setting. If we couldn't do it, we figured out how, instead of just turning up everything.


Respectfully, I disagree with running 7018 1/8" at the minimum recommended amperage.

Personal opinion, the middle of the range and up is where I stay. There is no need to fight it, let the rod do its thing.
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Re: 7018 basic tips

Postby olek » Sat Jun 10, 2017 3:52 am

Hello , robot at the Ford plant speaking (pinched nose tone) ;)

Thanks I notice well what you said.
I use Lincoln 7018-1 "no name" they are nor excalibur probably but this is what we have here
.I also have ESAB 48.00 they are used for those pics series.
assuming their cost I doubt I will use them often.

I focus on the puddle AND the path I follow, but yes , vision problems I do not see behind the electrode I refer to what is enlighten by the arc so knowing I can drag was good news.

I tend to use the less energy so I have more time to react to puddle changes , but I did read Lincoln about 7018 they state use enough heat, on the hot side.
There will be differences depending of the machines too.
I use DCEP with 7018 ( but was said by diffetent euthorized people that first root pass electrode negative gives better penetration)

I will do those exercises to notice the puddle shape change with angle change, I think I begin to read it, when I did begin to drag I used the same rod angle then suddenly I did incline it more as it seemed more logical to do so.
( ..can you drag with the same angle than short arc ?)

In the mean time I find interesting studies where ptfe was used as a binder to make low hydrogen and tougher electrodes, at a lower cost because no cooking.

If interested, have a look, Electrode making is depicted as well as the composition of 7018 coating ( I falsely was thinking it contains graphite but it is limestone and fluorine essentially )

Those new generation of electrodes are probably on the market, may be 7016 ? Certainly 6010 too .
They should be less expensive unless ptfe is , but ,we know how it is....
http://www.sciencedirect.com/science/ar ... via%3Dihub

All the best. Thanks for your help.
Pianos , restorer and tuner
Dedicated to learn welding since april
slowly learning ;) not complaining of doing beads and beads
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Re: 7018 basic tips

Postby olek » Sat Jun 10, 2017 6:57 am

I have to understand what does arc force when looking at the amp provided. I am digging strong and create undercut if I have more than 30 arc force so I font know how to use it

The maker of my welder told me to put it at 10 if it is annoying.
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Re: 7018 basic tips

Postby MinnesotaDave » Sat Jun 10, 2017 8:42 am

olek wrote:I have to understand what does arc force when looking at the amp provided. I am digging strong and create undercut if I have more than 30 arc force so I font know how to use it

The maker of my welder told me to put it at 10 if it is annoying.


Undercut is another way to say under-fill.

You can easily undercut using a machine that doesn't have a dig feature.

It's generally caused by poor technique and is a mistake in welding. Everyone does it from time to time and then fixes it.

New people do it a lot.
Dave J.

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Re: 7018 basic tips

Postby PeteM » Sat Jun 10, 2017 11:34 am

I'm sure there are some numbers to it for travel speed through a weld with a given electrode, at X current, etc. but what it usually comes down to is not going too fast or too slow, but "just right".

That's where the art of welding occurs. The science of it (numbers, etc.) is important to know, but the art is in the application.
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Re: 7018 basic tips

Postby olek » Sat Jun 10, 2017 12:22 pm

May be that is not the good name I see too much groovr6 ( canal) at the top edge of an horizontal fillet ( first pass) or when raising vertically in triangle shape

I thought also that I had too soft metal , as wrought iron , sometime.
It happens also ( less often now ;) on the top edge of horizontal fillet

But with arc Force limited the edge of the weld are just embedded enough in the metal.

I did read that undercut was not a problem with first pass as it will be filled with the next.

I agree that it may also sign a misorientation of the rod in the angle, I am not sure now ... here it may be the case but this metal is very soft too.

7018 and 6013

https://goo.gl/photos/gT7mz46CCN8Y9NEK9

https://goo.gl/photos/6gPwoNGUiRg7nPJC9

Is arc force raising amp or only the tension, making the arc "tougher" ? I d prefer to understand it as it is a part of the welder setup, not just an "anti mistake" feature.
Pianos , restorer and tuner
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slowly learning ;) not complaining of doing beads and beads
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OA Oxyflam 1000 cutting and welding gas torch
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Re: 7018 basic tips

Postby Poland308 » Sat Jun 10, 2017 1:04 pm

Poor rod angle, too much amps, too much arc force, left over mill flake, and travel speed are all possible causes of undercut. These aren't the only causes, but the most likely.
I have more questions than answers

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Re: 7018 basic tips

Postby olek » Sat Jun 10, 2017 1:46 pm

Poland308 wrote:Poor rod angle, too much amps, too much arc force, left over mill flake, and travel speed are all possible causes of undercut. These aren't the only causes, but the most likely.


Good , too much arc force is in th list ;)

arc force 10

https://goo.gl/photos/xmRQubDDPJ3CegHx6

What is arc force for, is it useful when one weld high carbon steel, for instance, or very thick pieces ?

I am sorry to focus on that, I am just thinking that I should be capable of mastering enough my rods so I do not stick, then use arc force at my advantage once I understand the process better

(I did begin the first month of welding with an old buzz box, and had the impression with the DC machine that whatever I do it will weld , I appreciate the hot start )
Pianos , restorer and tuner
Dedicated to learn welding since april
slowly learning ;) not complaining of doing beads and beads
pro inverter PROGYS 200 FV PFC CEL+tig lift
OA Oxyflam 1000 cutting and welding gas torch
olek
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Posts: 189
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