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7018 basic tips

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7018 basic tips

Postby olek » Mon Jun 05, 2017 3:15 pm

Hello

I am learning how to use 7018 actually, different from the 6013 I have been mostly burning (plus some 99 Ni on iron, but that is another story ;) I am "advanced beginner, very dedicated, since 45 days almost no day without some exercice , I did burn about 800 electrodes so to say ;)

7018, I like the clear view of the puddle, but not the fragility when you stick

I seem to understand that : 1 you create the "puddle" , then
2 as soon it is large enough you move a little the electrode out so it does not stick,
3 then you come back (immediately), make a short arc, and begin to pull/attract the puddle from its edge, looking for the size you obtain to regulate the speed,
I did find that only that way I could obtain a very short arc about 1,5 mm , the arc is almost not visible. Not too much slant (more 80 than 70) so the bead does not grow up , and the gas shield is still efficient.
Eventually a little zig zag (is a little turning allowed ?) First I did stop and go (until the puddle have grown enough) but the bead is not straight enough on its edges (may be I should only go slower)

If I did allow a longer arc, even well tense, I had a tendency to stick often, may be because it gives too much heat to the electrode so the metal flow too fast . What do you think ?

My goal is to be capable of making thin beads, with minimum height (so to weld with 3 4 beads in angle for instance)**Thank you in advance for your thoughts.

I use 30 arc force and 20 or 30 hot start (more does not seem to agree with the graphite start)

Not too much problems with restart after a little filing or using a martyr
*I did cook the electrodes then store them in very dry box at 16 17% relative moisture, (silicate bags) they seem to burn regularely that way

Thanks for your tips I will appreciate them
Pianos , restorer and tuner (technician)
Dedicated to learn stick welding since april
slowly learning ;) not complaining of doing beads and beads

pro inverter PROGYS 200 FV PFC CEL+tig lift & end of arc regulation
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Re: 7018 basic tips

Postby olek » Tue Jun 06, 2017 3:23 pm

https://goo.gl/photos/9XowodvphxfFpNAG9


a few stringers, only the last I did use a little manipulation

can someone correct me looking at the pics ? thank you
Pianos , restorer and tuner (technician)
Dedicated to learn stick welding since april
slowly learning ;) not complaining of doing beads and beads

pro inverter PROGYS 200 FV PFC CEL+tig lift & end of arc regulation
olek
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Re: 7018 basic tips

Postby Poland308 » Tue Jun 06, 2017 6:30 pm

Well they look pretty good for someone who's only been welding a short time. The beads are fairly even. That will get better with more practice. There are a lot of pin holes visible in the surface. Grind down into those welds to see if the holes go all the way through. Pin holes are probably from the very dirty/contaminated metal your working with, but could also be a sign of long arcing, bad angle, or bad welding rod. I.e. Cracked off sections of flux, or oil, or water soaked.
I have more questions than answers

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Re: 7018 basic tips

Postby olek » Tue Jun 06, 2017 8:00 pm

Thank you, comments appreciated ;)

I would tend to think that I did not keep the puddle protected enough ( may be a slightly longer arc than I wished too ).
It happened on some beads at the behinning of the job then at the end I did not have those holes ( may be because I added a little slant to the electrode)

Anyway I try to have a very short arc, may be even shorter than the ones I see on jody's videos. (Almost in the puddle).
Is it a good idea ?

Best regards

Those are 48.00 esab , not cooked yet but I opened the box 3 days ago and I store them in a bag with sillicate pouches , it reduce a lot the humidity.
Pianos , restorer and tuner (technician)
Dedicated to learn stick welding since april
slowly learning ;) not complaining of doing beads and beads

pro inverter PROGYS 200 FV PFC CEL+tig lift & end of arc regulation
olek
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Location: France

Re: 7018 basic tips

Postby Farmwelding » Tue Jun 06, 2017 8:11 pm

Where did you get the material from? If it is what I think it is(I'll wait to see what it is first though) I would grab some flat bar of some sort probably 1/4" thick. I think some of the best practice I've done is what I call a boat anchor. You can use 4 pieces of flat bar that are 1" wide and cut them 12" long and make 4 t-joints. For your first stick welding though-not awful. I'm in high school myself and watch others starting stick welding whose beads after 50 hours are worse than that. The only thing that will get you better is just dropping the hood and melting some rod, so keep burning. And just for my curiosity, what machine are you using?
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Re: 7018 basic tips

Postby Poland308 » Tue Jun 06, 2017 8:40 pm

olek wrote:


Anyway I try to have a very short arc, may be even shorter than the ones I see on jody's videos. (Almost in the puddle).
Is it a good idea ?


Those are 48.00 esab , not cooked yet but I opened the box 3 days ago and I store them in a bag with sillicate pouches , it reduce a lot the humidity.


Yes you will feel the rod dragging a little as you go along.

And that should be fine for your storage of rod.
I have more questions than answers

Josh
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Re: 7018 basic tips

Postby olek » Wed Jun 07, 2017 6:03 am

Sorry double posting

Regards
Last edited by olek on Wed Jun 07, 2017 11:04 am, edited 1 time in total.
Pianos , restorer and tuner (technician)
Dedicated to learn stick welding since april
slowly learning ;) not complaining of doing beads and beads

pro inverter PROGYS 200 FV PFC CEL+tig lift & end of arc regulation
olek
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Re: 7018 basic tips

Postby olek » Wed Jun 07, 2017 11:03 am

olek wrote:Hello

@Weldingfarm : Thanks for the anchor tip. I did make some yet .(but not with T joints, more L joints , maay be I miss something)
I was short of flat bars and took an old piece of scrap that was painted, but I did clean the paint on the side I wanted to weld (to bare metal).
New steel is expensive here so I looked for alt solutions, gained access to a scrap pile from the town's metal workshop.
I will look for more adapted steel.

You mean the welding machine ? It id a good 200 A DC inverter "semi pro" quality . A French brand , GYS

@poland308 thanks , I did reduce to 10% the arc force feature, as I do not see how to use it. It interferes with what I do and I suspect is send too large amount of weld at once, that mean a tendency to stick more easily with arc force (dig) than when it is very low. Plus undercuts.
I suppose that function have its use out of preventing sticking, but I noticed that I have it on at all times when I am dragging at the edge. So the piwer regulation is not the real one.
I have to understand how to use that feature advantageously.

Btw the steel is soft steel but the first square piece welded in the pics comes from an ornemental forge made piece.

Thanks again , gentlemen ;)

Regards
Pianos , restorer and tuner (technician)
Dedicated to learn stick welding since april
slowly learning ;) not complaining of doing beads and beads

pro inverter PROGYS 200 FV PFC CEL+tig lift & end of arc regulation
olek
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Location: France

Re: 7018 basic tips

Postby olek » Fri Jun 09, 2017 12:15 pm

Anyone could give me some ideas on why if I have the "arc force/dig " function at 40% I tend to stick more easily than at 10%

I thought that it is an "anti stick" system, that add power if my electrode touches the puddle so it reduce in lenght immediately and arc lenght is lenghtened a bit.

I wonder if it is not that I push the electrode if I see the arc lenghtening, I often wonder if i am not using
too short an arc when welding.
On the other hand I discovered the "manual automatic welding" and then the arc is really short.

The problem is more often when doing vertical angle, I try to drag very lightly to the sides or build a triangle without touching the bottom or the sides once I get the motion. I dont know which is the best (not touching, may be )

May be also because I did move my wrist to pass from right to left, I did not notice the orientation of the stick is to be kept so the whole arm moves laterally, not mostly the wrist. Agreed ?

What do you think ?

Ps here is a try with 3 beads , trying to guide the stick
With the angles
https://goo.gl/photos/sSpxrbtfLWKEJCjP7
Last edited by olek on Fri Jun 09, 2017 4:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Pianos , restorer and tuner (technician)
Dedicated to learn stick welding since april
slowly learning ;) not complaining of doing beads and beads

pro inverter PROGYS 200 FV PFC CEL+tig lift & end of arc regulation
olek
Guide
 
Posts: 177
Joined: Sat Jun 03, 2017 4:07 pm
Location: France

Re: 7018 basic tips

Postby MinnesotaDave » Fri Jun 09, 2017 1:55 pm

Your pics say 115 amps with what I assume are 1/8" or 3.2mm 7018 rods.

I generally run 125-135 amps with arc force set to 30% (if the machine has it)

If you have trouble with rods sticking, it can just be your amps are too low.
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