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7018 with the least porosity

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Re: 7018 with the least porosity

Postby olek » Mon Dec 04, 2017 10:41 am

Danylo66 wrote:Havent posted for a while. I`m using Lincoln 7018 welding rod and it is good, but i find , like others, that i`m always having to dry the rods first. Even if I keep them in the sealed container.
I have heard of other brands that are not so seseptible to moisture. (Note I`m not looking to bash Lincoln welding rods)
I`m just a hobbie welder and I`m not doing any structural work involving safety.


out of curiosity, are they 7018 or 7018-1, and what are the specs written near the end H4R for instance
If only H4 they are more sensitive to heat, cheaper or older version
I use the 7018-1 which are among the less expensive rods in some places About 23€ VAt incl. for a 4,5 5 Kg pack.

And I have no problems with them, I worked on restarts and tie in using many of the 1/3 to 1/2 rod I had, and it was not that difficult. (not more than making a regular tie in with 7018)
I make a 25mm light "smoke trail" to begin 7018 (for a restart, making a small bit of bead with porosities along the main bead, then tie in and grind the extra little bead later.)
Pianos , restorer and tuner
Dedicated to learn welding since april
slowly learning ;) not complaining of doing beads and beads
pro inverter PROGYS 200 FV PFC CEL+tig lift
OA Oxyflam 1000 cutting and welding gas torch
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Re: 7018 with the least porosity

Postby Antorcha » Tue Dec 05, 2017 12:37 am

Ask for Excalubur 7018MR It's helps a lot with your scenario
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Re: 7018 with the least porosity

Postby Danylo66 » Tue Dec 05, 2017 1:55 am

Hopefully Im replying correctly. Still not sure If i`m directing the replies properly.
Thanks for the replies Olek and Antorca.
On the box is only written 7018. On the big box web site the have E7018 H8. 1/8
When first I purchaced them they were okay. I have them stored in a plastic weldin rod container.
But I noticed that they need to be dried all the time, in an over, to work well.
So I have an old toaster oven to dry them in. I set the oven around 300-350 and keep them in there for a minimum of 2 hours. sometimes longer.
As for stick out, I keep the rod as close as possible.
I thought the E stands for Excaliber.
I plane on going to the local welding supplier soon to se if they carry H4R or the MR 7018`s.
I don`t mind having extras to practice with.
I`ve spent many hours on MIG and TIG and have let my SMAW practice laps. Many years ago I had access to the old buzz boxes and from the smell of the rods that I remember I was using something like 6010 6011. Seemed alot easier then. LOL :D
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Re: 7018 with the least porosity

Postby Danylo66 » Tue Dec 05, 2017 1:56 am

Sorry miss spelt Antorcha.
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Re: 7018 with the least porosity

Postby olek » Tue Dec 05, 2017 2:14 am

Danylo66 wrote:Hopefully Im replying correctly. Still not sure If i`m directing the replies properly.
Thanks for the replies Olek and Antorca.
On the box is only written 7018. On the big box web site the have E7018 H8. 1/8
When first I purchaced them they were okay. I have them stored in a plastic weldin rod container.
But I noticed that they need to be dried all the time, in an over, to work well.
So I have an old toaster oven to dry them in. I set the oven around 300-350 and keep them in there for a minimum of 2 hours. sometimes longer.
As for stick out, I keep the rod as close as possible.
I thought the E stands for Excaliber.
I plane on going to the local welding supplier soon to se if they carry H4R or the MR 7018`s.
I don`t mind having extras to practice with.
I`ve spent many hours on MIG and TIG and have let my SMAW practice laps. Many years ago I had access to the old buzz boxes and from the smell of the rods that I remember I was using something like 6010 6011. Seemed alot easier then. LOL :D


Well, H8 and no "R" mean a cheaper version of the rods (8mg hydrogen, the good ones are H4 and some certainly less (?)
E is just the suffix for electrodes in the 4 digits codification

May be just try to find the 7018-1 from another supplier (as I said those are among the cheap rods when the provider sells enough of them to schools, for instance) cheaper than the Lincoln 46 (E6013) .
They are easier to dry I think (there is some PTFE in the coating so the moisture do not go in as easily.)
ESAB 48.00 today have also that H4R designation, the PTFE used as a binder is may be dating 2011 as a new process.

I am a little baffled with the Excalibur name, to me that is may be only when they are delivered in those nice sealed tubings or boxes for the US market.
On the official catalog I cannot find the ones I buy, or, more precisely they are all Excalibur if the ref is 7018-1
Pianos , restorer and tuner
Dedicated to learn welding since april
slowly learning ;) not complaining of doing beads and beads
pro inverter PROGYS 200 FV PFC CEL+tig lift
OA Oxyflam 1000 cutting and welding gas torch
olek
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Re: 7018 with the least porosity

Postby Danylo66 » Tue Dec 05, 2017 2:22 am

olek wrote:
Danylo66 wrote:Hopefully Im replying correctly. Still not sure If i`m directing the replies properly.
Thanks for the replies Olek and Antorca.
On the box is only written 7018. On the big box web site the have E7018 H8. 1/8
When first I purchaced them they were okay. I have them stored in a plastic weldin rod container.
But I noticed that they need to be dried all the time, in an over, to work well.
So I have an old toaster oven to dry them in. I set the oven around 300-350 and keep them in there for a minimum of 2 hours. sometimes longer.
As for stick out, I keep the rod as close as possible.
I thought the E stands for Excaliber.
I plane on going to the local welding supplier soon to se if they carry H4R or the MR 7018`s.
I don`t mind having extras to practice with.
I`ve spent many hours on MIG and TIG and have let my SMAW practice laps. Many years ago I had access to the old buzz boxes and from the smell of the rods that I remember I was using something like 6010 6011. Seemed alot easier then. LOL :D


Well, H8 and no "R" mean a cheaper version of the rods (8mg hydrogen, the good ones are H4 and some certainly less (?)
E is just the suffix for electrodes in the 4 digits codification

May be just try to find the 7018-1 from another supplier (as I said those are among the cheap rods when the provider sells enough of them to schools, for instance) cheaper than the Lincoln 46 (E6013) .

I am a little baffled with the Excalibur name, to me that is may be only when they are delivered in those noce sealed tubings or boxes.
On the official catalog I cannot find the ones I buy, or, more precisely they are all Excalibur if the ref is 7018-1
Okay so that may explain why some of the rods are better then others in the same batch. Now I'm curious to try the h4 rods, to see if they perform better or are less finicky. I'm not sure if I mentioned, but I am using a small inverter welder. But I think the welder is okay. Actually thinking about it I did previously mention the welder. Hey my brain still remembers Lol. I'll keep you posted of the results.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk
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Re: 7018 with the least porosity

Postby Danylo66 » Tue Dec 05, 2017 2:22 am

olek wrote:
Danylo66 wrote:Hopefully Im replying correctly. Still not sure If i`m directing the replies properly.
Thanks for the replies Olek and Antorca.
On the box is only written 7018. On the big box web site the have E7018 H8. 1/8
When first I purchaced them they were okay. I have them stored in a plastic weldin rod container.
But I noticed that they need to be dried all the time, in an over, to work well.
So I have an old toaster oven to dry them in. I set the oven around 300-350 and keep them in there for a minimum of 2 hours. sometimes longer.
As for stick out, I keep the rod as close as possible.
I thought the E stands for Excaliber.
I plane on going to the local welding supplier soon to se if they carry H4R or the MR 7018`s.
I don`t mind having extras to practice with.
I`ve spent many hours on MIG and TIG and have let my SMAW practice laps. Many years ago I had access to the old buzz boxes and from the smell of the rods that I remember I was using something like 6010 6011. Seemed alot easier then. LOL :D


Well, H8 and no "R" mean a cheaper version of the rods (8mg hydrogen, the good ones are H4 and some certainly less (?)
E is just the suffix for electrodes in the 4 digits codification

May be just try to find the 7018-1 from another supplier (as I said those are among the cheap rods when the provider sells enough of them to schools, for instance) cheaper than the Lincoln 46 (E6013) .

I am a little baffled with the Excalibur name, to me that is may be only when they are delivered in those noce sealed tubings or boxes.
On the official catalog I cannot find the ones I buy, or, more precisely they are all Excalibur if the ref is 7018-1
Okay so that may explain why some of the rods are better then others in the same batch. Now I'm curious to try the h4 rods, to see if they perform better or are less finicky. I'm not sure if I mentioned, but I am using a small inverter welder. But I think the welder is okay. Actually thinking about it I did previously mention the welder. Hey my brain still remembers Lol. I'll keep you posted of the results.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk
Danylo66
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Re: 7018 with the least porosity

Postby olek » Tue Dec 05, 2017 3:06 am

Danylo66 wrote:
olek wrote:
Danylo66 wrote:Hopefully Im replying correctly. Still not sure If i`m directing the replies properly.
Thanks for the replies Olek and Antorca.
On the box is only written 7018. On the big box web site the have E7018 H8. 1/8
When first I purchaced them they were okay. I have them stored in a plastic weldin rod container.
But I noticed that they need to be dried all the time, in an over, to work well.
So I have an old toaster oven to dry them in. I set the oven around 300-350 and keep them in there for a minimum of 2 hours. sometimes longer.
As for stick out, I keep the rod as close as possible.
I thought the E stands for Excaliber.
I plane on going to the local welding supplier soon to se if they carry H4R or the MR 7018`s.
I don`t mind having extras to practice with.
I`ve spent many hours on MIG and TIG and have let my SMAW practice laps. Many years ago I had access to the old buzz boxes and from the smell of the rods that I remember I was using something like 6010 6011. Seemed alot easier then. LOL :D




Well, H8 and no "R" mean a cheaper version of the rods (8mg hydrogen, the good ones are H4 and some certainly less (?)
E is just the suffix for electrodes in the 4 digits codification

May be just try to find the 7018-1 from another supplier (as I said those are among the cheap rods when the provider sells enough of them to schools, for instance) cheaper than the Lincoln 46 (E6013) .

Do you have some

I am a little baffled with the Excalibur name, to me that is may be only when they are delivered in those noce sealed tubings or boxes.
On the official catalog I cannot find the ones I buy, or, more precisely they are all Excalibur if the ref is 7018-1
Okay so that may explain why some of the rods are better then others in the same batch. Now I'm curious to try the h4 rods, to see if they perform better or are less finicky. I'm not sure if I mentioned, but I am using a small inverter welder. But I think the welder is okay. Actually thinking about it I did previously mention the welder. Hey my brain still remembers Lol. I'll keep you posted of the results.

Sent from my SM-A520W using Tapatalk


what you mean "small" inverter ?

Do you have some 3/32 rods ? may be easier to begin with (and they ask less from the inverter)

I dont know for sure but if you do a real rod drying 3 hours the oven at its max (should be 300 350°celsius) then keep them sealed , eventually with some silicate bags too, I believe they should weld well out of the storage, and if not , half an hour or one hour in the oven may do it.

how much open current voltage do you have with your welder ? I seem to remind 58 60V open are necessary so the rod is keep lightening at all times
Pianos , restorer and tuner
Dedicated to learn welding since april
slowly learning ;) not complaining of doing beads and beads
pro inverter PROGYS 200 FV PFC CEL+tig lift
OA Oxyflam 1000 cutting and welding gas torch
olek
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Re: 7018 with the least porosity

Postby Lightning » Tue Dec 05, 2017 10:49 am

Danylo66 wrote:So I have an old toaster oven to dry them in. I set the oven around 300-350 and keep them in there for a minimum of 2 hours. sometimes longer.


Redrying calls for temperatures between 650-750°F. I don't think you're going to get that in a toaster oven.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/su ... etail.aspx

Not sure you can even get to that temp in a regular oven...maybe on the "clean" cycle...?
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Re: 7018 with the least porosity

Postby olek » Tue Dec 05, 2017 11:36 am

Lightning wrote:
Danylo66 wrote:So I have an old toaster oven to dry them in. I set the oven around 300-350 and keep them in there for a minimum of 2 hours. sometimes longer.


Redrying calls for temperatures between 650-750°F. I don't think you're going to get that in a toaster oven.

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/su ... etail.aspx

Not sure you can even get to that temp in a regular oven...maybe on the "clean" cycle...?


Hello, I did not see more than 662 F , I was given a nice big electrical oven (the minuter did not work) the thermometer inside it tells me 536 F
AT that level of temperatures the humidity goes out of the rods anyway,I think that if the oven (not a toaster ) gives yet 464 F adding one hour drying may suffice.

I have friends using 7018 simply kept in the driest place of the house, with a short drying eventually '30 min to one hour in the oven)

The cooling of the rods should be done soon in a sealed box , as a hot coating will attract moisture from the air soon.

The plastic tubing box used for electrodes when working outside, are rated for 221 F (105°celsius)

I do not believe the rods go from the oven to those boxes immediately, probably to a portable oven if available.
Pianos , restorer and tuner
Dedicated to learn welding since april
slowly learning ;) not complaining of doing beads and beads
pro inverter PROGYS 200 FV PFC CEL+tig lift
OA Oxyflam 1000 cutting and welding gas torch
olek
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Posts: 213
Joined: Sat Jun 03, 2017 4:07 pm
Location: France

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